Dieselfuture

I may be way off here, but in my opinion the reason for high prices not only for corporations to make more money but to push more people to live in Cities vs country. There's got to be an agenda behind that. One thing comes to mind, control. Smart cities are on the rise, just a matter of time now. OK I go back in my corner now

Squeal is obviously caused by belt slipping on a pulley but what pulley is another question. I've been thinking about that myself, the only thing I can come up with is the way the belt is routed on shot down it may jiggle back and forth enough to cause the squeak. If I had to guess it's probably an alternator pulley, since you can turn it backwards with a ratchet and rotate the engine but if you go clockwise it will just slip.

Yeah my tappet cover is moist almost everywhere on bottom, I used feelpro, no silicone. I do have Mike's crankcase vent mod coming of front cover up then over towards fire wall just under intake horn and down to frame. It drips very little, every time I park probably a drop.

With your setup I would say smaller tires and power break it, maybe put in a line lock on front brakes. 62/68/12 is a good turbo but spool up will be slower, but will have lot more valume, compounds is where it's at. Not sure about ECM mod, sounds maybe something to do with torque management. And that could definitely keep you from ripping tires loose.

Belive it or not my little Honda I drive a lot usually does 35 on hwy and after decent hail damage it's up to 37 lol.

So after long discussions with multiple people I've decided to give these springs a go. Now to be clear these springs are conical design and not beehive. It's somewhat new in diesel world from what I understand but been around in gas motors for a while. They are harder to produce and that's where the cost comes in. In my case I probably don't need them but I was going to get some springs ether way and I got a good deal so I'm not out too much more, as long as everything works out and it should. Same thing goes for pushrods I was looking for a 3/8 set but once again got a good deal on 1/2" and from understanding it's better all around. Trunions were galled up and weren't going to get better and adding extra load from heavier springs will make it worse I'm sure, so why not it's only money right. And that goes for bridges, since I had experienced premature guide wear I decided to stiffen things up, maybe I am harder on my truck then I thought. So if it all plans out, I'm hoping the only thing I'll be taking valve cover off is to adjust valves. Almost forgot I did finally fit the seal and it seems to be good, good chance I'll be using them. In the picture you can see I grounded down OD of base on both seals and shaved a bit of rubber where it slips over guide on one, you can see darker portion on bottom where it pressed over guide. So we'll see if guess. I used 31/64th drill bit in reverse to shave rubber 1/2 may be ok but not sure yet.

Got some stuff in today but not all was included, talked to Trevor at Manton and he said it will ship next day tomorrow. This is some quality stuff here, the only problem I'm seeing if it's even a problem is springs fit very tight in a hole. But they do fit, I'm waiting on reply from Trevor. He said not all Cummins heads were identical and he'll check tomorrow when he goes to work. I'm probably over thinking it but want to be safe. So far I got 12 1/2" push rods, 24 springs and 48 keepers, 5 bridges lol, and set of arp bolts to hold trunions. Trunions didn't show and missing 7 bridges once again lol but a little but hurt. And I also got these other seals with a lip, they are ready close but with few issues that I see, that may be delt with. The OD is bigger at bottom which I shaved not a concern, overall height is ok, the only thing is where it presses on guide is tight and needs light shaving. I'll play with it some more when I get more time. Overall seals are doable but with modification so not sure if this is going to be for everyone. In picture you can see I shaved rubber f most bottom lip for the lip on the head but that didn't need to be done the hung up was on guide itself. This is kinda hard to explain but if you were looking at it it would make sense. One other thing I noticed on seals is original has 2 lips to ride on valve and the on I'm trying to make work has one. In assembled picture seal is in place. Picture with seals, on on left is tophat if you machine the lip off, using it for diameter on base, middle is the one I shaved and right is the one that needs shaving. Arp bolts are longer for more grip.

My spear ecm is only 3 months off on built date as my original and it had a different software on it. Trucks were identical.

There seem to be more junk out there and not enough people with brains to work on things anymore. I really think with good luck and having money and being in right place, you can keep these trucks running for a long time with spear parts.

Link I provided above. Give them your vin number and some money, they will program new ECM to your truck with latest software ( you can also ask to eneible 3-cylinder cold idle) just so you have it for future. When you receive your new ECM swap them out and send yours in as a core. Before you slap new ECM in make sure you're fix all your whiting issues, or it will not be warranted.

That's just it where do you stop, by the time you add it all up and your time maybe a guy is better off find the newer style axle, ora set of them to match.

Yes you right but I'm still not patient enough for silicone, maybe that's why I got the head tore apart again not doing my research the first time

Man someone got time and talent

Makes me rethink my new 7x10 , need to learn how to ease in to it man But seriously it must be age of these axles and the abuse other the years, hard to believe a healthy d80 will grenade with 500hp but then again I've blown up 2.5 ton stuff pretty easy before too.

I'm impatient, this glue thing was instant lol

I'll find out ha ha

Did this for debris and whatever. Some screening and glue gun. There are 2 gaps, one on each side too. Where wiper motor goes had to be recessed.

https://autocomputerspecialist.com/shop-now?olsPage=products%2F1998-2002-dodge-ram-cummins-diesel-59ltr-i6-ecm-ecu-repair-service You have to be very specific with these people but they can fix it. I sent my spear ecm from a donor truck to flush it to work on mine and have 3/6cyl high idle. Everything worked for a day and then I lost my tack, called them and explained, they said you only payed for programming to repair your need to send it back and be specific on what it does and what codes you have. Because they will only fix what you tell them not the entire ecm, I guess they said because it takes way to long to figure it out. Another option they have more expensive, but no more bs. https://autocomputerspecialist.com/shop-now?olsPage=products%2F1998-2002-dodge-ram-cummins-diesel-59ltr-i6-ecm-ecu and send yours as a core. I would call them and see what they tell you. They seem to want to help but can be a bit hard to communicate with.

Bet it's vco vs sac. I just got a set of 7x10 vco from dap set at 320 bar, can't wait to see how they run. Maybe temperature gun on different cylinders on exhaust

I like the idea of free spins but if greasing our hubs makes them last 500k I'll keep greasing, about to order some better grease and flush mine out to see if it cures the ABS light coming and going. I used Lucas green grease and wonder if it has something in it that interfere with sensors.

I'm about to do mine too, parts arrived from Rockauto

7 is neutral, below is considered acidic and above alkaline. But then again like mentioned above coolant is probably different than water and needs to be higher kinda like TBN in oil as it gets older it goes down. Idk just thinking out loud here. Edit for more info. Drinking water should be around 7.5 anything below is not good for you, probably can go as high as 9 without I'll affects. Pop is very acidic especially monster Energy drinks, right around 3.5, it is a good cleaner for tough stains not so good for your stomach. Virus likes acidic environment and to kill crap inside of you natural way can be done by mixing little bit of natural baking soda with water and drinking it few times a day for a week or two. It will cure other problems too, same with apple vinegar, tea spoon on glass of water same time frame. You'd be surprised what this stuff does. Research it more if you care what you do to yourself.

I'm just going to leave it be then, it still feels tight after all these years so ....

Since I got this wiper assembly out I changed the wiper motor, cardon from rockauto, and now they work like they should. FYI Some wires were just crimped on new unit so I soldered them. Now I got a question, these plastic clips that snap together seem to have no lubricant or it dried out, I know regular oil/grease may deteriorate some types of plastic and I've seen lithium grease used on some stuff. Do I grease it all up or live it alone. Part of me wants to pop these joints apart and put something in there the other says leave it alone lol Edit for picture,

If you have v2 tuning you don't need anything just plug the hole in a turbo where hose go see to waste gate and use a defuel option to whatever psi you want, that's how my truck been for a long time now. I just remembered you probably have hy35 and a metal tube, I guess if you don't want to drill and tap an 1/8" by 27 pipe thread and put a plug in turbo housing you could just use a turn buckle.