Dieselfuture

Sorry guys another question. Do these amps help at all, should I keep them or bypass them? I put an aftermarket stereo in and just thinking maybe it will be a better sound without using the factory amps? Will I need new wire too or it should be fine. BTW I used 6.5" in rear doors, fit just fine. I used some selftappers because the head on the original screw is too big and was touching speaker rubber part. @trreed @SavageTusk edit Reading some more about it, I found that amps are only used with factory stereo and if using an aftermarket one they need to be bypassed for better sound quality and something to do with 4 vs 8 oms, and 30amp max where my stereo is 250 x4 I believe so it will be too much for these amps anyway. I guess I'm pulling them things off and see what happens.

PSG on top of vp my first guess. Other than that could be a number of things. Try dumping water on vp next time and see if it helps. This was an issue with early vps.

I try to stay half a tank or above for a lot of reasons. But ever since I did draw straw 5 I can suck the tank dry. That's without hard breaking or accelerating. Any time I know I'm going on a trail riding I'll fill the tank up. In an emergency situation or if thete is no gas stations, I can pretty much empty the tank riding down the highway. I guess my point is, if you're playing around keep the tank full.

I have a HO pump, nothing fancy like hot rod. I have my timing at 29 for max, seems to run fine. I figured if he's going balls all out on top end, he needs timing. Sounds like edge products max timing out early in the map and stay in 30s rest of the way.

Sounds like quite the truck. Seems low, especially on top end. 1 9 41 is the phone app, 2 8 5 latest software for Quadzilla box Change it to v2 dodge 1998 2002 How do you like them, heard some rumors that they didn't know what they were doing. Maybe got better.

Thank @IBMobile just in time I have infinity, front left (driver) is different. Mine were just black and red I put red on + and black on - rear left seem to match, haven't gotten to others yet

Don't mean to hijack again, I'm in the middle of installing these polks and not sure what color goes where + - Does anyone know that

It's amazing how many combinations you can make up with the quad V2 tuning.

It's definitely a never-ending project, I feel like that all the time. Personally I would probably fix everything in the truck without pulling the motor. Your OCD must not be bad enough you didn't change the rear main at the same time you did clutch it's not an easy decision, if it's still good then why change it.... that would be my luck too. What did you use for sound dampening on your doors. I just got some noico 80mil stuff to do the whole truck, seemed it had great reviews.

So with hot wiring VP it runs fine? And if it sits and idles all plugged in factory way, it acts up? If so maybe your ECM is going out. When you do hot wire test ECM is not in control of it anymore. But it's kind of sucks you can only idle it with that test.

Is it only doing it hot or on cold engine also

I agree, if it's better and stronger, I'll be going same route eventually. Wonder the price. Need to look that up... @jag what chevy gear box did you use exactly?

You had good luck with 6.7 rockers I think you should be fine with Chevy parts on your truck

You must have a longer stick

No I have not, not sure if it will help or ruin something else. Maybe I'll try it before changing oil next time. I think you suppose to run it for a bit and drain it out.

One thing I can say for sure the hubs I just put on (Timpkens ) have way more grease inside them then the factory ones did. I really don't think I could squeeze much more grease in them. From what I've read people that grease their factory hubs make them last a very long time. Honestly I don't think there is anything wrong with my original hubs that I took off. I kept them as spares.

I had few leaks when I first got it. One from crankshaft seal, one of the balancing shaft seals, and the distributor o-ring and seal, I believe the sensor was a little wet too. I now have zero drips to the ground. I'm pretty convinced I have scored cylinder wall or bad rings on cylinder 1. Thanks for your input, them oil sensors are known to leak on a lot of different vehicles, in fact when they start to lick on some of our models of Cummins, they create a short in 5 volt circuit and cause headaches, hard to trace if you don't know what you're looking for.

You may have a bad VP out of the box. I would think if it started on either it ran long enough to bleed the lines out.

Possible, sometimes the problem is in PSG on top of vp, with time solder crystallizes and causes loose connection. Some say you can run cold water over the computer when it attacks up and see if that helps. Sometimes they don't set codes and hard to troubleshoot.

When cold timing is advanced

We'll just call it quad ghost

i just put a plug in the turbo housing and rely on tuning or defuel settings if all else fails. I don't like the boost elbow, I may do a turn buckle some day. At this point I really have no use of the waste gate. Just use common since when plugging it off.

adr276final.exeADR9802v2.5.2_Standard_Fuel.exeADR9802v2.8.4.exeADR9802v2.6.1_Standard_Fuel.exe I have these saved

Amazon making oil now they must be stopped before they take over the world, ahhh never mind too late....

Just found that out too, switched to leds in boat trailer and first I plugged it in and nothing, flipped the bulb around and got light.