01cummins4ever

Another beautiful day on the lake, launched at 6 a.m. about a 3.5 hr drive from my house

Thankfully only minor stuff, and with good luck having the parts readily available @IBMobile how’s those rv275 working out pulling the trailer, any noticeable difference? I been wanting to install these along with a tuner myself, I’m hoping my work load is going to slow down and be able to install these and get some TLC done next month

I saw that truck yesterday on my way out of Denver, sets at a shop right off I 70. late 40’s Ford it looks like, I wonder if it’s got a Cummins

If you do some research on the inner web, thier are some places that can build you an aluminum radiator to your measurements to make it fit good and you could even have one built with the top mounted resivour to keep the nostalgic look, the a/c condenser and innercooler could be mounted after radiator in a suitable location. As stated above if your going with a manual trans, thier no need for the tranny cooler.

Try wal mart in the sporting goods section where they have marine stuff usually in 1 gallon jugs,

hmm. well like I say I haven't seen one, but it would make sense if you had to plug in a camper and tow a trailer at the same time. but for the OP it sounds like got some wires crossed somewhere or a short to ground. maybe try checking each circuit separately with a jumper wire, between truck and trailer,

I haven't seen both 4 pole and 7 pole set up from factory, just one or the other. If its a factory 7 pole, maybe someone spliced a 4 pole plug into it, I would resort back to all the factory wiring and check everything over, then if a 4 pole is needed just purchase a 7 pole plug with a 4 pole adapter. note that wire colors can differ from manufacture put the positions should be the same

I went with the mechanical fuel pump from GDP when my raptor 100 bit the dust, and glad I did. I run a steady 18 psi. at idle and maintain the same at WOT. I chose to go strictly mechanical with no back up electric, mostly because my electric pump was shot and I did not want to purchase another and I also did not want to have all the extra plumbing involved and to be free of all the other clutter. I already had the 1/2 draw straw and 1/2 fuel line comming out of tank from when I installed the raptor so I just cut it off below the tank and made a bracket and bulkhead with a shut off valve where my raptor was mounted to the frame. Then I just used the supplied 3/8 Parker push lok and jic fittings that were supplied with the mechanical pump, along with a 24 micron pre pump strainer, and I am still using the stock fuel filter canister mostly because I want the factory fuel heater in the winter, it hasn’t let me down yet. Here’s a pic of the bulkhead I made to transition from the 1/2 fuel line to the supplied 3/8 line that the GDP pump uses. With that done, the 1/2 big line kit from factory filter to VP is recommended

I guess it just depends where the slow boat from China is when you place your order. I wish I could try this on the Hy..

Bearing buddies are designed for boat trailers that get submerged in water they are not intend to Greese bearings, True greesable bearings have a hole drilled through the center of spindle and crosss drilled at the inner and outer bearings. Just a few pumps periodically is usually sufficient, as it still does not replace the need to inspect and repack bearings, depending on the use of your trailer. I might repack every two or three years on mine, and that’s just putting a few thousand miles a year on them.

I’m not sure mine fits in with all the clean looking one around here, 305k on the clock. Owned it since 2002. It had 15k on it when I got it. Just my little work horse

@Towrigdually I know Colorado is a little out of the way, but I transport a lot of the state of Colorado equipment to and from their sale yard in Denver. Everything from 1 ton dump trucks to D-7 dozers and everything in between. A lot of junk and some good deals to be had if you know what your looking for.

You can’t beet that deal, I have never paid to much attention to torque specs on the trailer ball. It’s ususlly tight as I can get it with a couple of large pipe wrenches .

Holy sheet!! Expensive. I still cuss and screem when my tags come do on the dodge at 140. a year. I’m lucky to live in a non emission area so that helps. Only a very small portion of registration fees make it to the roads, The fuel tax, both on federal and state level is what generates road and maintenance funds.

I have a in bed chest tool box, works well with the fifth wheel set up. It has good locks and I keep it full, milk crate full of winch rigging equipment, snatchblocks, Clevis hooks. Short grab chains and straps. another milk crate with antifreeze, oil, zep 45, Propane torch, deisel 911, and a pint of anti gell. Duct tape etc.. Honda 2000w generator smal extension cord and small battery charger cheap 18” chain saw w/extra chain and tools. an ax more chain A duffle bag with work cover all’s and a winter night time reflective insulated snow suite. and extra gloves more straps and chain fire extinuisher a hammer and other simple mechanic tools. In the cab. I carry remote for winch and spare fuel pump belt in glove box along with more spare gloves. electrical tape, and fuses and relays and battery’s and a wind up flashight underneath seat I have a class 3 reflective safetyvest and a flashlight with a 6” orange cone attached, a spare serpentine belt and a underwater hammer for breaking glass. in the side door compartment. ( for traveling along a wild river in spring) Yep, mostly safety stuff, usually for other people, but I live in a rural part of Colorado about 25 miles from town in the mountains and no cell service, and self rescue is the only way out. In the last 30 years here I have come across just about every kind of accident imaginable so I don’t travel under prepared.

If looking to haul a 35-48 horse tractor with a loader and hoe your looking at the 6000 to 8000 lb. range. You would need a 10000 lb . rated at minimum. If you went with a 25 to 30 horse you could probably get buy with a 7000 lb ( two 3500 lb. axles). One things for sure is when shopping for trailers you defently get what you pay for. The cheaper end of trailers use light angle iron and cheap china made axles and tires, you can’t go wtong with a trailer made from heavy steel and quality axles like dexter or such. I have seen some good quality trailers with 7000 lb. axles and some poor ones with the same rating that I would be reluctant to haul much more than an atv on. Keep an eye out on CL adds for new and used, usually a good selection from dealers and individuals.

Arch View RV Park is where I usually stay if I want full hook up. It’s just a few miles north of Moab on 193. Just don’t show up during the Easter Jeep Safari, from March 24 - April 3. Things can get real crowded and crazy and RV spots next to impossible, any other date and you should be ok but I think I would still have reservations just in case. April Is a Popular time for 4 wheeling. Also canyon lands RV in town is nice if you want to be close to shopping and restaurants. With that amount I would look into a full size truck bed transfer tank that you can bolt down.

The pumps on the gas caddy are replaceable, Nothing wrong with a mounted transfer tank in the truck bed either, although a lot of tank manufactures say diesel fuel only and some are rated for both, I do not know what the difference of the tank construction is but I would say aluminum would be better for gas and as long as it is well ventilated and has a pump rated for gasoline you should be good. Check out norrhern tool for hand pumps that are rated for gas If your cheap like I am, like on my trip to Moab next week with a trailer load of 4 atv’s. I just load em up and go to the gas station or carrry a few 5 gallon cans

I am in the process of building a waste oil burner, Almost done. It’s small scale and heats my 24 x 24 garage fine, burns about a quart an hour, and averages about 500-600 f. I got some fine tuning to do, but may post a few pics of it in action when done. So far I got 0 Dollars into it, just using scrap material, but now I got to fork out about a 150. Dollars for a through the wall chiminy flu. and pipe.

In my shopping for the RV 275, I learned to stay away from the aftermarket. The genuine Bosch have P/N 0432193635, I have not seen them but should be stamped on the body themself too. I havnt had time to pull the trigger yet but DAP charges core until they get yours Vulcan is a little more but no core charge

At some of the marinas I visit these are popular for slip owners bringing gas out to thier jet skis and such. Seem to be a safe and clean way to move gas. The only thing they not cheap, check amazon or wal mart web sites, might find a good deal on one

Is that mpg, or kilometers per Gallon or liter I am right about the same with 304640 mi. = 490270 kilometers. I average about 15.5 mpg in the winter and 17 empty. on a good day in the summer, My truck only see’s the freeway a couple times a year. Mostly all mountain and town driving

@Bobalos with the egt numbers you stated and the grades and weight you are pretty much on par with a stocker and with your driving habits you seem to be keeping it within acceptable temps. Not much improvement unless you start dumping money and installing mods, just got to ask yourself how much. I am doing about the same as you on my stock truck with a slightly built 47re, not much difference in my temps compared to yours, I run on the otherside of AZ. off the Mogollan Rim about 7500 ft. Down to 1500 ft. In the tonto basin. In a few 6-7 % grades 4-6 miles long. This year I plan on installing the rv275 along with the quad Xzt and play around with the waste gate mod, My EGT May increase, idk. we’ll see. Just have to control it with the right foot. In the future, when I upgrade my trans the mods may increase to larger sticks, and turbo and possibly a quad adrenaline but for now I gotta baby my fragile 47re trying to get it to last a while longer. This is what I drag down from Colorado every spring , grossing about 19k

You will have those tires long wore out before the date code is even a concern. 1.5 years isn’t nothing if they were properly stored. Now if they were 8 or more years I might be a little concerned.

@Mopar1973Man Worn shocks are usually a contributer to cupping of tires too.