dripley

I am confused but I only had a couple drinks. Maybe I need to catch up. pretty sure thats how mine is. Manifold divided but the exhaust housing is not. Opening another beer now.

Welcome. Look forward to seeing how this all goes.

If you already have tow mirrors you do not need the backing plates. They are already there. Mine came from A1 also.

I had 2 sets of the factory rims and after the 5th rim cracked I had to ditch them. A couple of cracked into the barrel of the rim and did not leak.

I agree with you. That puts @Marcus2000monster 235hp rating correct just not an HO engine.

I know about the smaller input shaft on the early 6 speeds. I just thought the the HO was introduced with the 6 speed.

Pretty sure they are a 4th gen style in 2nd gen set up. If they have turn signals, some wiring is required for them.

It looks like the HO was not introduced until 2001. http://www.cumminshub.com/timeline.html I always thought 6 speed and HO went together. Maybe not.

Mine factory spare looks like your second picture except the holes in mine are ovals. Same number of holes and it is black.

I ran one of keys for 16 years to the point I could take it out of the switch while the truck was running. The key was thin and cuts were rounded off. I got the other key that came with it and started using it and it will not come out of switch while running. Seems to me the key and switch wear both wear out.

Now all you have to do is add a trunk.

Well I must have the spacer because I have the CAD and no pull. Just never heard that discussed before. Live and learn.

I guess I have not read that one and mine does not. Not arguing, just never heard that one before.

Mine started blowing with or with out things plugged into. Pretty sure my socket went bad.

And splat goes the bug, again. I wish you luck and wish I could help.

Good to hear. I was beginning to wonder if you might be able pay the truck before you got it.

Yeah,^^^ what he said. There are some ridiculous prices for things out there.

I had trouble with mine a while back blowing fuses. I ended up replacing the plug and it has worked fine ever since. The bottom of the plug was rusted pretty good.

Mine is similar just without the cord. The timer just plugs in the. Mine is NOT weather proof.

With temps at 20* it only takes 30 to 40 minutes to bring the block up to 60* for an easy start. No need for it to be on all night. I use a timer on mine.

That is one of the 2 stock sizes that came on them. It is what i run in a Cooper ATP from discount tire. 245 is the other stock size. Load range E definitely.

Mine are disconnected and when it got cold here in Maryland I would plug mine in for 30 to 45 minutes with great results. I dont think the engine missed the grids at all.

I know a good while back I heard of folks putting LS diff additive into the 5600 and claimed good results. Know one I knew at the time had any comment on it so I never tried it. I think I might just for the heck of it before the next trans oil change just to see if makes any difference. Just not sure of long term affects on the internalls.

Well shame on me. I guess why I did not mention it is that electrical advice and the chicken man are not normally mentioned in the same sentence. But here goes @Dodge2k. The thread below is what I used when I did I this. This is A good read on the subject. @W-T did quite alot due to what he runs on his rig . Mine has nowhere near the power requirements so what did is less involved. What I did was start at the alternator by removing the #6 B+ charge cable from the alternator to the PDC. I also removed the blk w/tan stripe ground wire from the passenger battery to the splice buried in wiring harness near the VP, just cut the wire at the splice and cut the other end at the y splice near the battery. I then cut the 4 wires on the other side of the splice and removed it. I crimped and soldered on a 1/4 ring terminal for 12 to 10 gauge wire on the 4 wires. I used a section of the larger blk w/ tan tracker wire that I removed from the battery and made wire with ring terminals on each end and bolted one end along with 4 wires now joined in ring terminal to the timing case cover with the bolt specified in the thread. And attached the other end of the single larger wire to drivers battery neg terminal. Next I made up a #4 gauge wire with ring terminals to run from the alternator charge post to the B+ on the passanger battery. I had some new battery cable laying around for this wire. I removed every thing from the harness including the wire loom all the way to the VP. I used a utility knife with a new blade to cut the tape off at the joints. I was very careful doing this so as not to cut into any of the wires. The tape that's on there will pretty much fall apart even if it is not cut all the way thru. After it was all removed I began the reassembly. Two things I have not done yet are replacing the PCM ground, I just reconnected the existing wire with all its splices and I have not run a ground to both battery B- posts. I ran out of daylight. But just this alone took my A.C. voltage from a marginal .035 down to .010. I was quite surprised. This is a very worthwhile mod to do. And my thanks go out to @W-Tfor the in site and also to @IBMobile for dumbing down to my level. Thanks guys. One other thing I did, and this will make @Mopar1973Man and @JAG1 happy, was connect my AD fuel pump to the PDC terminal vacated by the old charge wire. I had it connected to the alternator. That leaves me with one question. Does the B+ from the driver battery power the PDC?

The disc springs are different. Here they are. TheValair The SB. As far as noise all I have ever heard out of mine was the gear roll over noise with Valair and 4th in the original started whining some before it got stuck. The only other thing I seem to hear is the Cummins. I looked into the Pennzoil Syncromesh way back when and it says it meets the Mopar specs and a lot folks were using it with success and still do. I am comfortable with it. A lot of folks use different oils with success also. As stated it is as clear as mud.