IBMobile

Some guy around here had a lot tucked away so you couldn't see it from the street. A lot of the tree trimming business would unload their trucks there instead of the land fill to save money. He had 2-3 Mexicans working it, splitting and delivering. He made a good living at it till he died.

Here in the great state of Confusion, the Government wants you to buy it where you burn it or burn it where you buy it. This is so bugs and diseases don't get moved around. Right now I have about 6 cords of pine, eucalyptus, oak, and who knows what in the mix.

I've got one of those Harbor Freight chain sharpeners. I bought it on sale a couple of years ago. My son says It works great, fast and easy to use. I have a Stihl Farm Boss with 20" bar and 3 chains to keep sharp.

That fluid is 5+ years old! The mechanic that did the work is a _thief_ charging for work that's not done. I hope you #1 got your money back and #2 reported him to the proper state authority. A fluid flush every 2-3 years or 30k-45k mi and you wouldn't worry about rust or anything else in the brake system. As for taking the calipers off and disassembling them for inspection; if you have the know how, the tools, and the time, no problem. If you have a mechanic do it the cost is going to be in the hundreds of $ and it might be cheaper to replace them with rebuilt parts.

I had a set of 4 Cooper A/T's on the truck. The tread just pealed off at 70 mph and beat the right rear fender in. Cooper paid me $1000 for the damage. Then another one on the right front started to come apart. I could feel it in the steering and took the tire off before any damage was done. That's when I put the Wranglers on.

My 40+ years of working on cars have almost all been with Volvo. With that being said all the cars that had clutch cables before 1983 had a spring attached to the through out arm that would hold the bearing off the p-plate when not engaged. 1983 and newer did away with the spring and the factory spec is 5mm of negative play (slack) between the cable and t/o arm so the bearing is resting on the p-plate. All the hydraulic actuated clutches I come across In the newer Volvos and other vehicles have 0 play. As for getting in there to lube it, very hard to see in there let alone lube it.

Go to Tirerack.com or some other review site and see what their customer survey has to say. I'm sure some of the fine folks on this web site have had experience with one or the other brand of this type of tire. I do know that I won't be buying the Wrangler All-Terran because I don't need the aggressive tire pattern in So-Cal.

We all need to get out and smell the campfire.

Do spruce trees have pine cones on them?

The t/o bearing my have lasted longer with the part being greased. Looks like it never fully released from the pressure plate. Any added stress on a part will shorten it's life span. IE: if a part is designed with a 100k mile life span and an uncalculated force / load is applied a premature failure is inevitable. By the way how were the fingers on the pressure plate?

100LL is the only aviation gas to be found at most airports. The LL stands for low lead and was introduced in the mid 70s so it has been around for a while. The lead is used as a lubricant in gas somewhat like the sulfur is in diesel fuel. In the 80s when leaded fuel for cars was discontinued pre 1975 engines were having valve problems. The valves would wear into the valve seats or as we called it "valve rescission". The fix for this was a valve job and replace the seats with harden ones. The ave gas around here is as low as $5.37/gal at Borrego Springs, CA to $8.20/gal at San Diego International. They won't sell it in a can, it has to go in the wing of the plane. It has to due with the road tax that hasn't been paid on it.

What happens in my shower stays in my shower. For wallpaper that won't come off problem, I've done it two ways. Either skim coat over the wallpaper with joint compound or cover over with 1/8" drywall. The skim coat way is E-Z and cheap. I did it in a kitchen 15 years ago and it still looks great.

When I redid my bathroom and took it down to the studs I added R-13 insulation to all the walls. It helps keep extraneous noises from escaping.

If the OEM bearing lasted 240k miles and the aftermarket lasted 70k miles I think I'd put the OEM back in.

Factory pumps are junk! I had 2 fail in less than 20k miles. I put a Fuel Boss mechanical pump on. I now have 19-20psi at full throttle.

My friend didn't say any thing about my bhaf or the home made cold air box but did do a snap test and said he did see a little smoke but hay what are friends for.

Your Smarty may not be legal in CA. I brought my truck in for smog test in December of 2011 and every thing was good. Last December I was told that my EDGE E-Z was not legal and I'd fail the test. Lucky for me I've known the owner for 20 years and I send him a lot of business.He passed me anyway. I went to the CA. ARB web sight and the EDGE E-Z was only certified for 1998-1999. I could not find the Smarty listed there so it may not be certified either. here is the web address. http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/aftermktdevice.php I see that the Smarty leaves no "foot print" so you may not have to worry about it but be sure no smoke comes out of the tail pipe. The test includes revving up the engine and watching the tail pipe for smoke, any smoke at any RPM is a failure.

My 5er came with maxxis tires and they last 9 years with no problems till dry rot did them in. Went down to the tire shop and put another set on.

My trans lasted 63k miles before the front ban wore out due to a lot of backing up. I didn't have a temp gauge for the trans yet so I think it overheated a few times trashed the fluid and caused the failure.

When I had to replace some of the wood in my rig I treated it with a water proofing sealant be for installing it.

That's how I renewed mine this year. Went on line, paid the fee with the M/C card, and four weeks later had a new license with the old picture. Still had to go see the Doc for the CDL check up. My wife, "the Speed Queen", had to go in to the DMV this year to get her's. I gess if you have points on your record they want to see you.

That's how I renewed mine this year. Went on line, paid the fee with the M/C card, and four weeks later had a new license with the old picture. Still had to go see the Doc for the CDL check up. My wife, "the Speed Queen", had to go in to the DMV this year to get her's. I gess if you have points on your record they want to see you.

When I changed my rotors out I drilled and tapped my hubs for grease fittings. I pumped about 20 to 25 shots of grease into each hub while spinning them, and it actually quieted them up drastically. Did you take pics of them and what type of grease did you use?

I would use rubber brake lines and save the money. DOT 4 brake fluid with a boil point of 500 or better.

U soo funny