IBMobile

One bourbon and one scotch would have help that beer kill the pain. You're right! We're all ways getting an education in the school of hard knocks. I've been in that school for so long I'm getting my doctorate.

Free tool rental at O Reilly auto parts 441 US highway SW Hickory, NC https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/rental-tools--air-conditioning---cooling/12095d53bcad/rental-tools-evertough-fan-clutch-wrench-set/ren1/67063/v/a/139817/automotive-suv-2017-hyundai-santa-fe?pos=2

Did you see this thread? https://mopar1973man.com/topic/18490-dirty-turbo-vane-and-what-to-do-about-it/

Pacbrake 2.5gal tank part # HP10093 $80-$95 Pacbrake 2.5gal tank w/kit # HP10050 $204-$208

I do the same pre trip prep; check this and that, pack a few spare gizmos (like a TPS) ; none of them have helped. One trip the VP44 went out in Riggins ID, then there was the crank speed sensor that went bad in Moab, UT, another time the lock up clutch in the torque convertor went out in Beaver Creek, OR, last was the right front wheel hub at @Mopar1973Man house. My wife insists on bringing her own mechanic with her but she wants him to work for free.

I finished the installation of a Pacbrake C44075 last week and found their instructions woefully lacking and some times clear as mud. Here is the link for the oil at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-1-qt-Bottle-Oil-with-Syncolon-PTFE-Lubricant-51030/202932721?

This was just a heads up of where you can get the same oil for cheap.

After reading the installation instructions pin #20 is not used and left blank in normal operation, that's why it doesn't show up in the FSM. I see only three thing that could keep voltage from that wire: Throttle switch not closed. You've checked and readjusted it. Poor or improper connection at #20 connector. I'm sure you rechecked the installation of the terminal into pin #20 and the sealing pin didn't get pushed into the ECM connector. An uncooperating ECM. One other thing about the Pacbrake is the lubrication that is called for. I pulled up the MSDS for the Pacbrake SuperLube and Super Lube Oil w/PTFE is what came up. You can buy the 4oz bottle of Pacbrake SuperLube exhaust brake lube for $17-$30 on eBay or a 32oz bottle of Super Lube Oil w/PTFE for $16.16 at the Home Depot and three 4oz plastic bottles at a craft store for $2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQBSltZ1GfQ

Get a You Tube account and up load the videos to it. Next put a link to your You Tube video on the forum and your done.

Fat to the front to make it "lazy"; increases caster.

@JAG1had something like that happen to him not long ago. I think it was a shorted cell in one of his batteries.

Any vibration when accelerating? I'm thinking u joint front drive shaft. Clutches and bands in the auto trans will just slip and not make noise.

Ya. she wishes for a lot of things. I tow a lot so I change the diff oil every 30k miles; it's cheap insurance. The FSM calls for 75w-140 synthetic when towing a lot. At Walmart I garbed some Valvoline with limited slip additive. I have an AC system evacuation pump and set it up with some hoses and a jar so I can suck the oil out of the fill hole.

My dash core was cracking at the top where the dash cover screwed to it. I used a lot of JB Weld to beef it up; let it set over night before putting it back together.

Is it a 4X4?

You're right. It takes the amp load off the ECM circuit board.

If you don't have a relay to power the lift pump one can be added with out to much trouble.

My right battery died 2 weeks ago. Went to Walmart to see their price; $120 plus core. Went to the in town battery shop; wholesale $87.75. Went to my friends battery shop; $85. I got two new $85 batteries; I traded him repacking some wheel bearings for them.

Here is what this module fits. https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/MODULE-Keyless-Entry-Receiver-Replacement-Module-for-82300986/4340128/04883257.html

I taught both my kids to drive stick shifts; wish I had a stick now so I could teach the grandkids. Could be done but I don't work for chicken feed.

Go to craigslist and see what they are selling for in your area. here are a few examples. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/d/fremont-1998-dodge-ram-2500-club-cab/7292270163.html https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/yucaipa-2001-dodge-ram-3500-quad-cab/7288649578.html https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/apple-valley-2000-dodge-cummins-diesel/7296479241.html https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/orangevale-2001-dodge-cummins-nd-gen-4wd/7302870235.html

Have you tried to listen to the noise with a long screwdriver or a mechanic stethoscope. If the noise is in the bellhousing then get ready to pull the transmission.

Some years they used fuse #9 to power the relay. Check #9 fuse (30 amp) in the PDC if it's ok and if there is battery voltage there. If it's ok then open up the PDC and check the wire from starter relay terminal 30 to the fuse.

Is that akin to measure twice, cut once. I hate when that happens. The other day I was replacing the right front axle on a 06 Volvo; ordered the part from one of my suppliers. Take the old axle out of the car and find in the correctly marked box an axle for as Honda. I put the old axle back in so the customer could drive their car until I got the right axle. Waste of time. The more times you take something apart the greater the chance of something else braking.