IBMobile

This was just a heads up of where you can get the same oil for cheap.

After reading the installation instructions pin #20 is not used and left blank in normal operation, that's why it doesn't show up in the FSM. I see only three thing that could keep voltage from that wire: Throttle switch not closed. You've checked and readjusted it. Poor or improper connection at #20 connector. I'm sure you rechecked the installation of the terminal into pin #20 and the sealing pin didn't get pushed into the ECM connector. An uncooperating ECM. One other thing about the Pacbrake is the lubrication that is called for. I pulled up the MSDS for the Pacbrake SuperLube and Super Lube Oil w/PTFE is what came up. You can buy the 4oz bottle of Pacbrake SuperLube exhaust brake lube for $17-$30 on eBay or a 32oz bottle of Super Lube Oil w/PTFE for $16.16 at the Home Depot and three 4oz plastic bottles at a craft store for $2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQBSltZ1GfQ

Get a You Tube account and up load the videos to it. Next put a link to your You Tube video on the forum and your done.

Fat to the front to make it "lazy"; increases caster.

@JAG1had something like that happen to him not long ago. I think it was a shorted cell in one of his batteries.

Any vibration when accelerating? I'm thinking u joint front drive shaft. Clutches and bands in the auto trans will just slip and not make noise.

Ya. she wishes for a lot of things. I tow a lot so I change the diff oil every 30k miles; it's cheap insurance. The FSM calls for 75w-140 synthetic when towing a lot. At Walmart I garbed some Valvoline with limited slip additive. I have an AC system evacuation pump and set it up with some hoses and a jar so I can suck the oil out of the fill hole.

My dash core was cracking at the top where the dash cover screwed to it. I used a lot of JB Weld to beef it up; let it set over night before putting it back together.

Is it a 4X4?

You're right. It takes the amp load off the ECM circuit board.

If you don't have a relay to power the lift pump one can be added with out to much trouble.

My right battery died 2 weeks ago. Went to Walmart to see their price; $120 plus core. Went to the in town battery shop; wholesale $87.75. Went to my friends battery shop; $85. I got two new $85 batteries; I traded him repacking some wheel bearings for them.

Here is what this module fits. https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/MODULE-Keyless-Entry-Receiver-Replacement-Module-for-82300986/4340128/04883257.html

I taught both my kids to drive stick shifts; wish I had a stick now so I could teach the grandkids. Could be done but I don't work for chicken feed.

Go to craigslist and see what they are selling for in your area. here are a few examples. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/d/fremont-1998-dodge-ram-2500-club-cab/7292270163.html https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/yucaipa-2001-dodge-ram-3500-quad-cab/7288649578.html https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/apple-valley-2000-dodge-cummins-diesel/7296479241.html https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/orangevale-2001-dodge-cummins-nd-gen-4wd/7302870235.html

Have you tried to listen to the noise with a long screwdriver or a mechanic stethoscope. If the noise is in the bellhousing then get ready to pull the transmission.

Some years they used fuse #9 to power the relay. Check #9 fuse (30 amp) in the PDC if it's ok and if there is battery voltage there. If it's ok then open up the PDC and check the wire from starter relay terminal 30 to the fuse.

Is that akin to measure twice, cut once. I hate when that happens. The other day I was replacing the right front axle on a 06 Volvo; ordered the part from one of my suppliers. Take the old axle out of the car and find in the correctly marked box an axle for as Honda. I put the old axle back in so the customer could drive their car until I got the right axle. Waste of time. The more times you take something apart the greater the chance of something else braking.

These are the deflectors I'll probably get, I had the glue on before but after dealing with them coming loose and regluing them to the door then later trying to get that glue off. no more. https://www.weathertech.com/dodge/2000/ram-truck-2500-3500/side-window-deflectors/bodystyle/quad-cab/

I installed an LMC dash in January; not hard to install and fit like a glove. Watch there video for how to but I did mine like dripley did by dropping the upper steering column and letting the steering wheel rest on the seat, removing the screws that are next to the windshield, remove the screws that hold the vents to the dash. loosen the bolts on the sides and pivot the dash. The top of my lower dash assembly started to brake also so I used generous amounts of JB Weld Quick to reinforce the weak points. Install new dash pad, screw vents to pad, rotate dash to fire wall, screw dash to fire wall tighten side bolts and refit steering column. Note: for trucks with auto transmissions remove the cable for the trans position indicator from the steering column before lowering the column to prevent braking it. That's because chickens are color blind.

NO, in the above wire diagram the wire from terminal 87 of the starter relay does not go through the ADS rely but gives it power when starting and the FSM does not show the ADS relay in the starter circuit at all so remove that from the diagram. Check your ignition /starter switch and the wires going from it along the steering column, they are known to go bad where the steering column tilts. For the starting circuits run the tests below. Check for voltage at starter relay terminal 30 with key in the off position. If no voltage check fuse #2 (some years #9) in PDC, if yes go to #2, Check for voltage at starter relay terminal 86 with key in start position. If no voltage check starter switch and by pass jumper. if yes go to #3, With transmission in park ohm test between starter relay terminal 85 and ground. If meter reads OL ohms (open circuit) check wires going to PNP switch and switch, if meter reads 0 ohms go to #4 Check voltage to starter motor with key in start position. If no voltage check relay or wire from PDC to starter solenoid.

This may help

You're right, if I was giving the surface area of the filtration media. Before people started using BHAFs they would drill holes in the bottom of the stock air filter assembly to increase surface area and air flow to the air filter material in the box. The data I supplied is the size of the side opening of a BHAF assembly the air flows through to the filtration media along with length and diameter information. If some one has high boost numbers they may want to use a filter with a larger area opening for greater air flow where a stock engine would be fine with a smaller area. The filtration surface area does very from between manufactures as well as standard vs premium filters of the same brand. The manufactures of filters do not readily make surface area information available. So, this info will be slow in coming as people cut the media out of an old filter and measure the actual media on a flat plane not all folded up in pleats and report their findings.