IBMobile

I was called out onetime to get a car started that was in a small field next to Lone Jack rd. Encinitas, CA. When I opened the hood two rabbits jumped out to either side and scared the heck out of me. I found electrical wire and vacuum hose damage. Most of the cars I see having rodent damage are parked out in the country near avocado, lemon and orange groves. They seam to like sparkplug wires and favor any injector or ABS/SRS sensor wiring. I've had a few cats over the years. The vet bills were killing me. May be it would be cheaper to get a chicken

What the heck! Talk about CYA. Weren't the tires and bearings supplied by them when they put the trailer together and covered by warranty..

Your fuel flow back to the tank at 25 PSI should be and the truck not running should be strong. How is the flow at the injection pump? check this out to test your fuel flow. The throttle position sensor, also known as an APPS (accelerator peddle position sensor), can be tested with an OBD II scan tool that can read live data. With live data you can watch the % of throttle opening which should be smooth and not jump when depressing the accelerator peddle. Do you have any codes? The Timbo's APPS for sale in the store here.

Pump manufactures to look for: Electric pumps check out Air Dog and FASS. Mechanical pump is the GDP Fuel Boss. Do not get one of these. I went through three of them before putting a Fuel Boss on.

Before you tow it to the dealer call them and check that they still have a working DRB III scan tool and someone who knows how to use it.

Both my cruise control and HVAC vent control are slow to respond. It started doing that just after I replaced my injectors and had inadvertently knocked the vacuum hose of the pump. Vacuum has been checked with a gauge and pump is drawing good. check valve is good and no leaks found ….yet. I'll probably get on it in the next few days and post what I find.

Sound like your starter motor circuit is looking for a ground. There might be a loose or broken ground cable. Start with checking the battery cable condition both positive and negative at both batteries and the negative cables where they are bolted to the engine.

Right, check not only the ground wire but all the wires for correct connector placement, continuity and short circuits.

Sounds like the ground wire became a fusible link and that it was connected to the constant hot which is protected by a 40 amp fuse. The ground wire might have been smaller than 10 gauge and burned before the fuse could go. It must have melted into the other wires powering them, like brake light and taking out the circuit for the electromagnets on the trailer brakes. I'd be checking on how that trailer was wired. This may help.

Did you smoke the wires on the trailer or the truck? Is it the trailer brakes or the truck brakes that don't work anymore? What happens when " However using a test like everything is hooked up as it should be"?

@Dieselfuture is right that If the PCM control wires are grounded to the body then there is a chance of high electrical resistance from rust, undercoating or paint, in any of the body panel spot weld, bolt or screwed connections. By soldering the splices in the PCM grounding wire and keeping it routed straight to the battery ground, a good electrical bound is formed and 0 electrical resistance . The PCM is mounted on plastic so the outside case is grounded (bonded) to the body (fire wall) with a ground strap.

Yes "ram air" starts to become greater than fan air above 35mph but, when towing an 8K LB 5th wheel, I've also heard the fan clutch cycle on and off while going up long 6% grades while locked up in 3ed. Exhaust temps will climb to 1200°F+ if left in 4th (over drive), in 3ed I can keep it below 1000°F Truck has 245/75-16 tires with a 4:10 rear end

Could-a been worse..... LOL ….. Glad you can see now.

Try Rock Auto for there stabilizer bar (sway bar) parts. They have stabilizer bushings, link rod and hardware parts https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,suspension. You can also go here to look up needed parts. Stabilizer bar on page 35, figure 2-130. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/2nd-gen-2001-2002-dodge-ram-part-number-lookup-tool-r389/

You want it on the trans side but no need to cut just use a quick splice connector to attache the grounding wire to the lockup wire. You can do something like this or trying to just running the wire through a switch to ground. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/52_transmission-transfer-case/diy-converter-lock-up-with-brake-pedal-release-r536/

The OD switch can be replaced by just using a small pocket screwdriver to pop the old one out, unplugging the two wires to it, plug the wires into the new switch and snap the switch into the end of the shifter. You can get the switch out of a wreaking yard. The same switch is used in ram 1500, 2500, 3500, Durango and Dakota.

My wife must have heard your wife because she said the same thing. I had found a nice 1 year old 5th wheel but "NO" she said "I want new, not someone else's dirty old trailer".

Thanks, it's a piece of cake. I tried to retire but my boss said NO! She's using me as a tax write off.

I finally got around to cleaning up the ground wire splices for the PCM this week end. It's not hard and took very little time to do. NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. You need: 2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long rosin core solder 140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch roll of electrical tape razer knife wire cutters wire striper Remove air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in. No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector has already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover. Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector. This is the connection with the cove off. This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector. Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector, insert the wires into the connector and solder. Let cool then cove with the heat shrink. At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires. They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's were you'll find splice #S126 There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used. Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above. When done it should look like this.

Have you verified that the boost pressure on the Quadzilla is indeed 0 psi by installing a test gauge pre and post intercooler. You can install it at the fitting on the turbo for the waste gate hose for pre intercooler and at the 1/2 npt plug in the intake manifold next to the fuel filter for post intercooler pressure. O'Reilly's may have one that you can "rent" for free or you can buy one inexpensively for about $14-$30. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html

Is the exhaust system blocked? If it is that would cause reduced air flow through the exhaust and over the turbo wheel.

Holy jump up and sit down!! What a mess. I'd be looking for a replacement. Take the body off, replace the floor and reinstall body. Heck no, you will never be comfortable about the quality of that trailer again. Tell them to get you a new trailer and back charge that clown in Texas for the fine "you will never have trouble with it again" repair. If they do go for a new trailer then push a little more and get a full warranty period for it.

I had the same set up you have with the boost elbow and 26psi was the best I would see and then bleed of from there to 22psi. I got rid of that boost elbow and put on a manual waste gate controller. Now I'm getting 30psi.