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Are you offering free instructions for that?

I think I do.

@dripley what size diff do you have? I'm seeing about 18 freeway, 16 city and 10.5-13 towing two trailers 12-14 towing just 5er.

My bad. This is the one I was thinking about. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests

This might help https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/diagnosing-a-lift-pump-issue

I've driven that grade a few times, coming from pheasant hunting just north of Calexico, pulling my 8k lb. 5er. To keep my temps down I down shift to 3ed, lock up the TC, work the throttle and hope I don't get stuck behind a big rig that's doing 30 One time I had to take the Edge EZ off to run it through smog but it just unplugged and plugged back in. I left the boost elbow on and kept the boost under 20.

Could have been the exhaust brake that did the transmission in.

Take the total of what the major parts are worth, salvage yard price, add 10% and no more. This way if the truck turns into a turd you can part it out and brake even or better.

You can get the relay installed in the PDC with a little work. I installed a micro relay for my back up pump but there is an open slot there for a micro relay. You can add the mini relay here with a fuse This is the underside of the PDC. The fused power wire for the relay would come from P and go over to the R area. You can get the OEM terminals and other parts from a used PDC out of a gas ram.

Try a different key. Spray a little lube into the tumblers. Remove ignition switch from lock and see how the lock turns with key verses the switch.

That's great to hear. I like the relay set up, that's what I have but in the PDC. The power draw between pins 86 and 85 of that type of relay is .15-.18 amps with a resistance of ~80Ω. So it doesn't take much to fool the EMC and turn of the light.

Measure front steering tow in/out. Drive a 16p nail through a 2-3' long 2X4. Jack up a front wheel and with white spray paint spray a line on the center of the tire while spinning the wheel. Before the paint dries place the tip of the nail on the center of the tire. Holding the 2X4, so the nail doesn't move, spin the tire. Now you have reference points front and back of the tire to measure. Do the same to the other tire. Place tires on ground with weight of truck on them. Using a stick,2X2 and no shorter than 77", place it against the front of the 2 tires and mark on it where the center of the tires are. Now take the stick to the rear of the tires. Using one of the marks on the stick as a common point for front and back of the right tier mark the stick where the left rear center line is. Measure the distance between these two marks and this will be the front end tow set. If the front measuring mark is greater than the rear then the wheels are towed out, and if less then they are towed in.

Well... They're not chicken legs.

I thought shorts were for snow weather.

Key off and battery disconnected per Dodge factory service manual. With out disconnecting the battery a large voltage spike could surge through the PCM when unplugging/plugging the connectors to it.

I'd take the rubber fittings on the vacuum lines, for the HVAC system, on the right side of the engine along with the 2 one way valves. Get the head light switch along with any other switches. The A/C low pressure switch is the same, it's on top of the accumulator right fire wall. If it has cruise control take the servo but I'm not sure an 01 is the same. Take the PDC. Cut the wire harness as far down as possible then unbolt it, There are a lot of good terminal ends in there that you can use if you want to add extra relays and fuses to your PDC. Keep the fuses and relays too.

Anytime a code is set, a code is cleared with a scan tool or the batteries are disconnected the monitors will need to reset. The two wires are joined together in the wire harness at S160 (splice) and go to the lift pump. You could add a resister between the power led and ground to mimic the fuel pump.

DIESELS WILL KILL YOU

Check the 14 AWG brown wire for voltage at the starter motor when the key is turned to the start position. If voltage then remove starter an inspect contacts in solenoids. If no voltage check for voltage at fuse #9 in the PDC. If fuse is good then check for voltage at pin #30 of starter relay. If no voltage check for open circuit between fuse and relay. If voltage at pin #30 then check for voltage at pin #86 of starter relay when key is turned to the start position. If no voltage check for open circuit between ignition switch and relay or bad ignition switch. If voltage at pin #86 then check for ground with an ohm meter at pin #85 of the fuel pump relay. If ground is good then replace relay, try another one from the PDC. If ground is bad then check the wires going to the park/neutral position switch. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These are the two codes I'd be looking at next after the starter problem is resolved. There may be a bad injection pump.

It took me 48 years of working on them and watching YouTube for an hour to figure this stuff out.

The last time I had the truck tested the smog tech told me the BHAF needed a CARB sticker and the Edge EZ was not approved. He then turned his blind eye to it and it passed. Didn't the PO of your truck smog it before selling it to you. A smog certificate is needed on change of ownership and the seller is responsible for it, see section 24007 (b) (2) of the California Vehicle Code. vehicle Code.

I would put the K&N on for the test. Why take the chance of a failed test and then have to pay to have it tested again because of the wrong air filter.

Here's what I did with my fuel boss set up. Had my SMOG test run back in December with no codes and no problems. You can just run the wire from the ECM for the fuel pump to terminal 86 and ground terminal 85. The ECM will see the resistance in the relay coil and think it's the fuel pump. Be sure the relay has a resistor or diode in it for voltage spike protection. If you have an after market air filter it will need to have a CARB label on it or the truck will fail. Be sure the monitors are reset and the ready light is green in the OBD 2 reader or the truck will fail. To reset the monitors the truck needs to be driven 10+ miles at 65 MPH, 3 times. If you can't get the truck tested in time pay the DMV fees to avoid any penalties but you wont get the new sticker for the plate until it's tested.

All most all part store alternators are Chinese rebuilds. The Chinese rebuilders get the cores from where ever, clean them up, replace only what is bad, paint them and ship tem back to the States. They hope it will last till either the warranty is up, you lose the receipt, get rid of the vehicle or just go away. They don't care because it's a numbers game. They have your good money and you have there junk.

HERE'S HOW TO REPLACE IT