2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

sorry going to be long post.2001 cummins quad adr. dap 150s fass 150. installed injectors and quad about 6 months ago,everything fine until last week, towed 10000 lb trailer 100 mi fine, 100 mi back home fine, next morning no start o fuelpressure, loosened fuel filter primed fass started fine, next time to start same. i checked for leaks found none, bolt on back of head ,t back of head,all fuel lines same no start 0 fuel pressure until i prime fass. removed fuel and water sep checked gaskets installed now have instant fuel pressure on key bump and 25 sec starter bump,still have a long crank after truck sits for a while. park nose down starts fine.question can injector or …

Good day everyone, Have a few questions regarding rear main seal replacement. 1. Do I need the $200 tool to install the seal? 2. What kitsch have you guys used to not need the tool? I have to replace my seal, but don't want to have to dish out extra money for a tool I may use 1-2 times. Thanks, Tim

I'm curious what you guys end up running for oil and filter personally I run amsoil 5-40 and amsoil filter now I'm changing to fleet guard filter LF16035

I am easy on my trans. NEVER get it hot. Tow a 12,000 gvw 5r. My 2001, 2500 has 150,000 miles on it now. I am getting nervous about leaving on a long trip about the age of the trans. I know the reputable transmission shops here at home. What would you do?

Hi folks. I am interested in settling on the right fuel transfer pump for my 1998.5 24V 2500. My engine is stock. I have no plans to increase horsepower or torque. I have 157,200 miles. I bought the truck last August. Right before I bought it, the VP44 had failed and been replaced in June. However the lift pump was not replaced. I decided to dig in a learn a bit about this known problem. I purchased a fuel pressure test gauge and checked the stock Carter pump. Readings were ok for the stock system, but a little down. I decided to change it out ASAP with another stock Carter pump at that time. I wanted to experiment and track some results. With the new Carter in I was…

Hey everyone, new to the forum i have a 99 eclb. I put a new ecm in after signs of a failed ecm, while I was waiting on the new one I pulled the alternator out to test it to avoid the bad diode problem. So I figured id do the mod w-t wrote about with the regrounds and new alternator power wire and what not. Well cut to I finshed it all up put the new ecm in and hooked the batterys up and i got nothing? No interior lights,headlights and no power at all. I had batterys tested and they were good. Cleaned all of my grounds again made sure everything was hooked up .checked over the wiring a few times im clueless now, im not good at electrical diagnostics, any idea of where to …

Hi All, I've got 3,000 miles on the truck I bought used last August. I was replacing the reverse light switch and spilled quite a bit of fluid and it was dark. So I was thinking time to get the fluid changed and the bands adjusted. So my question is Change or Flush?? TIA Michael

I got some codes that keep coming up P0238,P0234, and P0236 so i decided to remove the map sensor and try to clean it but the map sensor turns but its not unthreading now im not sure how to remove it

Pop pressure of Injectors When you look at a 24V Cummins fuel injector and look at how it's designed and how it functions. The injector pintle is held shut by spring pressure. For stock injector, you need 310 bar (4,500 PSI) to make the injector open and release fuel into the cylinder. Now the bottom limit is 293 bar (4,250 PSI) below this point the automation gets poor and there is more smoke because the fuel can't be heated enough to get vapor to go BANG! As injectors start getting lower pop pressure they do flow more fuel but the droplets start getting larger. This typically creates more black smoke as well as increased fuel flow. Net problem is daily drivers end u…

1998.5 24V Automatic tranny 4x4 2500. Hi folks. I have a considerable amount of turbo end shaft play. 208,800 miles. I have not checked boost pressure however I see oil is dripping off exit hose & clamp at ATAAC. I suspect I am pushing oil though the ATAAC as the turbo shaft seals and bearings are failing. Looking at stock turbo replacement options. I am planning to stick with stock size. Looking at replacement turbo options for a 1998 year I see a few choices. Some state "For Engine Vin code D". I assume that means diesel? Other turbo options read for "Engine VIN 6". I am unsure what that means, My engine tag is below. I don't see anythi…

I just finished installing the quadzilla this evening and man am i happy with that choice. Brought the ole dually back to life and then some. I’m planning on installing my new Fass 95 signature series at some point this weekend. My truck has the pump on the block, per the instructions from Fass my fuel suction will be utilizing the factory setup. Now I’ve read about 1/4 tank issues and updating to a better draw straw..but what if I never run my fuel that low..do I still need to make this upgrade? Or am gonna need to go a different route?

ASD Relay Controlled Lift Pump If the ECM is no longer powering the electric lift pump and you’re using a manual switch wired directly to the fuel pump relay for control there is a danger of the fuel pump feeding a fire in the event of an accident even if the engine stalls. The automatic shutdown relay is an alternative that will turn the fuel lift pump off if the engine stops and still be able to prime the VP44 if needed. The automatic shutdown relay (ASD) in the power distribution center (PDC) is energized by the powertrain control module (PCM) by grounding pin 85 of the relay when the engine is started. This closes the contacts and b…

Is their an article on how to install a draw straw tube, I am deleting the in basket straw and installing it out side the basket, I know @Mopar1973Man had some post for one but cant seem to find anything

Gents, I have done some searching online and have not been able to solve my problem. Under acceleration I can hear a squeaking noise while accelerating however when I am decelerating in gear I can also hear the noise I believe my needle bearings have worn out on the u joint it’s self. Granted the 20 to 80 mile an hour pulls don’t help much??‍♂️. Any help with the sizing would be greatly appreciated. Spicer sizes preferred!

So I want going to start putting my case back together today, and I thought I should check out the low roller clutch cam (race) pressed into the case. I noticed some discoloration on the it. Looks like heat, but also pretty localized to a small area. I put my hand in it and noticed it wiggled a little... Not good. So I pounded it out, and I can see it spun off its teeth. Now what? I've read about bolt-in replacements. I'm over 1000 lbft of torque. What are my options? I'm going to do some more research on this but I'd like to know if there's any first hand knowledge around here for this problem. Pictures below. Thanks in advance!

So both front axle u-joints had about 250,000 on them one blew near civilization got that one fixed didn't think about the other side at the time since I found a shop in the town I was staying at to fix it that day they slipped me in and got it done a half hour before they closed so then the other side blew coming through a mountain pass and now I'm in a hotel with no options for repair and wondering if I could do this in a parking lot with no press. Otherwise for the first time in 15+ years of owning the truck I will have to abandon it until Monday when shops in this town (Boscobel WI) open. Any suggestions? Sorry if I put this in the wrong section

I'm having torque convertor locking/unlockin problems. It happens between 40-55mph. At first unlocking was very fast, maybe one second. Next day unlocking lasted couple of second at time. I know something about ac noise, can it really cause that or is there something else wrong?? Any ideas where to start?? Brake light switch, output shaft speed sensor?? Thanks in advance!

Tried to start truck last week,(no codes) not getting enough fuel pressure through to some lines, I talked to local Bosch shop, told me pump is probably gummed up from setting for 8 yrs, I thought I drained most of the fuel out, but I'm sure some residual fuel remained. Anyway thinking of a way to un-gum it, thought of pulling pump and running brakecleen (suggestion from Bosch shop) through it while hand turning the pump. Welcome any suggestions, I already know if I can't get this cleaned I'll have to fork out the 1K for a reman pump.

First of all, I hope this is the right category and I do all of this right, this is my first time on this website. I have recently bought a 2001 24 valve with 193000 miles on it. The dealer that I bought it from did not have any decrcription if the truck other than that it was a clean truck. I am completely uneducated in diesel trucks and honestly mechanics in general. This is my first diesel truck and my first vehicle in general. the truck is an automatic, and although I’ve hear manuals are more fun, more reliable, and all around better tranny’s, an automatic was the only one that I could find that didn’t cost an arm and a leg, wasn’t rusted out, and didn’t have tons of …

As the title states. My 47re actually shifts a lot smoother when it’s cold. The shifts can be quite hard once its warmed up especially in light throttle conditions. I’ve tried google but can’t find anyone with a similar issue.. I have a suncoast triple disk, dynamic VB, and all the billet stuff. Other than the trans everything else on the truck is stock.