2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Ever since I have owned my truck it has had this terrible "clunk" right under the drivers side foot rest. Some days it made me mad enough to want to drive the truck off a cliff. I have replaced EVERY part under the front of the truck more than once and I still have had this clunk. I had all but given up hope of ever fixing it. When I first felt it I thought " must need control arms" well I replaced them once, still had the issue, then I replaced them again " just because" Ball joints, steering etc etc etc........ Anyways fast forward to a month ago, I noticed that the mounting holes for the control arms were ovaled out, so I welded in some washe…

Well after 30k my hancook dynapros as's are shot and in my opinion they were the worst purchase I have made for my truck and they were rotated and balanced every oil change 7k miles about if you are running these tires I'd like to hear your opinion. My front end was rebuilt top to bottom when these tires were put on so I dont think I am the reson for the quick weardown unless I missed something I would also like your guys opinon as to what the best lasting true allterain tire is. At the moment I'm switching to a 285 for shure and I'm debating going back to coopers discoverer st/c even though they cost an arm and a leg because I'll get 60k about out of them and in the wint…

Replaced the seal on my truck while the driveline was being rebuilt, was pretty meticulous about prepping the surface and using rtv to try and seal everything. Got the driveline back installed and took it for a drive and is leaking worse than before. I used an impact to remove and re install the pinion nut and used a new nut. I’m wondering if maybe I got the wrong seal? Through my reading I think there is a flanged and non flanged yoke, and I thought mine was non flanged. Also wondering the removal process for the breather tube as thinking that could be part of the problem. Thanks Also I used a speed sleeve on the yoke to repair the pinion sleeve and this is the se…

Just bought a 1999 dodge ram 2500 5.9 diesel and doesn't have cab lights. I want to put cab lights on and was wondering what brands are the best to look at? I just don't want them to leak after putting them in.I have Airdog 100 fuel pump system running at 17psi, quadzilla xzt+, 4" turbo back exhaust with muffler, 50HP injectors, road ripper 2000 transmission

Guys,The heater core in my truck is toast, so will be changing it soon. (It will be 2 weeks from now or a bit more.... too much going on and the tractor is in the shop too....)I have studied Mike's video, but still have a couple questions.1. From the picture it looks like the steering column is dropped. Yes? (anything other than bag to watch out for?)2. I have a 5 speed. I can't tell, but it looks like Mike removed the shifter and part of the center console?3. Is there anything else I should do whilst having the dash out? I can't think of anything.(and you are right I have cheated and not looked at the FSM yet... edit noticed later that mike said the column was "la…

I have a 1998.5 that I just recently bought and the cruise control does not work. The truck has a NV4500 transmission, when I depress the button the light does not come on I have tried using the set button but nothing happens. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I just put on two new stabilizer links on the front. No problem installing them except for knowing how much to tighten the nut down on the bushings. They tightened easily until I ran out of threads. Is there a proper squish value on the bushings? I also tighten sector shaft adjustment on the steering box about 1/8 turn and it seems to be working better on the test drive here at home. I am leaving for Indiana shortly and will put it to the test then.

I had a couple of these laying around https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBNBHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and replace the dome light and the map lights with them. I also repaired the exploded springy map light switch in the truck today (a resent development) with the aid of some crazy glue and a zip tie for extra insurance. I'm sure some of you have encountered that seemingly common failure. Looks like the one on the driver's side already went through the process of fail and glue. I added a zip tie to that one too. I've been using these same LED light bulbs (link above) in something else for about a year and they hav…

2001 with CAD and vacuum actuator, has anyone replaced this with a factory or store part and what would you recommend? No, I don't want to the cable, just replace what's broken. Rock Auto has a standard motors unit,a dana unit where the part numbers don't match anything online...

Hey all, I got my truck inspected this past Friday and they told me that my hard brake line that runs behind the fuel tank isn't gona last much longer. My dad recommended just leaving the old piece in and fishing a new one through, and I read it quite a few guys doing that on CF. Does that sound like a decent idea? Anyone have any ideas they think are better? Also, I read a lot about this new copper/nickel alloy brake line and guys are saying it's great to work with and doesn't rust. Any opinions on that stuff? And what size are the fittings on that line? I believe the line is 3/16 but I don't know the fitting/thread size.... thanks!

This week I installed a new heater core and with that I flushed the radiator, installed a new thermostat and radiator cap. I pulled the radiator while I had it empty to inspect it for blockages and it looks great. Before I took it apart it was starting to run a little warmer then usual especially when under a heavy load, but it never overheated.. I had suspected that the thermostat was going bad. I put 50 miles on it after flushing it and changing those parts and the temp held steady and nothing was out of the norm. Until I drove home last night. On the freeway the temp sat at around 160*. That is after it warmed up to just above 190*, then it dropped down and sat …

So I've had my abs light on for over a year now. I replaced the front wheel sensors, the rear speed sensor and the wheel bearings. I gave up and took it to the dealer and they determined that the module was bad, so I sent it into sia electronics to have it repaired. Installed the rebuilt module in the truck and I still have the light. I'm too deep to give up now but what other variable could be causing this?

I touched on this a little in another thread a while back. Finally getting to it. My abs light flashes constantly. The red brake light on the dash is not on, only the flashing abs light. I have read through the abs article and it refers to the abs/brake light both being on. So that didn't really give me a definite answer to my problem Abs light flashing, no parking brake light on and the speedo is working fine, cruise control works, brake lights come on when brakes applied as they should and 4wd light comes on and engages as it should. I did replace one front wheel speed sensor yesterday, planning on doing the other side either today or tomorrow but I fee…

For a couple months now I noticed moisture dripping from the floor vent on the passenger side of the tranny hump. right next to the " SRS" cover (I hope that makes sense) The moisture is mixed with what I THINK is green paint from when I painted my truck about 4 years ago and got overspray into the exterior vent at the bottom of my windshield. I know that sounds strange because it seems whatever paint was in there would have dried long ago. So I am open to suggestions for other explanations for the green stuff. While I first thought the moisture was water, now Im not so sure because it feels somewhat oily. any thoughts? Ill try to post a pic to help ex…

Alright guys, recently got a set of 4th gen wheels that'll be going on the truck soon with 285's. I really like the way my truck sits now unloaded, just wanting the smaller tires. My main question is with the 2in level up front the truck sits/looks really good and since I'm not typically hooked up to a trailer this is what I prefer. However, I don't really like the truck to squat when I do hook up. I know I know, best of both worlds! Here's my truck with 1600lbs of concrete in the back, not loaded with weight distribution in mind so the majority is at the rear axle or further back towards the tail gate. It sat on the over…

installed and works good for $25 the oem unit will be for sale in the classifieds.

I have been looking for adjustable ball joints for my 2WD 2500. As the suspension sags the alignment is thrown off causing excessive wear on the ball joints and the tie rods. All I have found are MOOG and we all know the issues with these. Does anyone know of a good adjustable ball joint for the 2WD trucks?? Seems like they are all made for the 4WD. I appreciate your help!!

I bought a stock set of lights for the truck from 1a auto and they fit good except where they meet the grille. Is they’re an adjustment or are these just crappy fitting lights? One photo is the old light and the other is the new housing.

On a stock height, stock tire size 3500 dually do I really need to worry about upgrading to 4th gen parts? or will good aftermarket stock parts hold up another 300k miles?

I have been looking for a good bumper for a while and ran across this one the other day on C/L in grand junction, and practically stole it for 750.00. Its brand new never been mounted. its got a winch mount so ill be adding more weight in the near future. as you can see in the pic truck is sagging about an inch or two, so to level it back up would a leveling kit be a wise option or should I just buy oem replacement springs. These ones have about 280k on then so I'm sure they are getting a little week. Ive heard to stay away from those poly spacers but don't know, I've never dealt with the issue