Mopar1973Man

I've got only one socket set that's it. If I loose a wheel bearing I guess I better just call a tow truck. As for worrying about what tools to take I don't even worry most times. I just keep up my monthly inspections and deal with any failures promptly. To this date since purchasing my truck on October 26, 2002 my truck has never seen a tow truck and never left me walking. I've always gotten home. If you let the paranoia set in too bad you'll start leaving home with a another Dodge in tow so you can tow the broken one home or part the towed rig for parts. This is going way too far...

The old one was a electronic thermostat. But it also had the 10 degree swings so set it at 75*F and it would swing low to 70*F kick in the furnace run all the way to 80*F till your sweating to death then shut off and then slowly sink to 70*F till your feeling cold again.

...add the links for code definitions... I hate to say it but MnTom is right with the number of injection pump codes and P1688 she is a goner...

I'm going to gain back my fan speed switch on my A/C after I pick up a SPDT switch then I can select either lo or hi then. I've got GL and GH so I just got to select either GH or GL to be hooked to the G terminal.

Don't Go There :nono:There is 8 cords in the wood shed split and stacked.Then there is about 6-7 cords to be split yet. ... worst yet I'm heading out this fall for more.

Well gang... I gone and done it. I got the Honeywell thermostat installed and all figured out. The first thing to suggest is to open up the access to both the furnace and the A/C unit and look at the wiring layout. Now I know with RV system there is no exact code they must hold to for color or labeling. So once I look at the furnace I saw a Red and White wire. So back at the thermostat I unhooked and touch them together and presto heater. Now also looking at the old thermostat the Red from the furnace was labeled +12V. Which it was a power lead so knowing this I place that lead to the R terminal on the new thermostat. The White wen to the W terminal. Now the A/C part was pretty easy. When I got the cover off I noticed right away the terminals where labeled already. But there is a catch the G is not just G its GL (lo fan - White) and GH (hi fan Green). So I used the GH lead in the G terminal of the thermostat the other GL lead I just taped up the end. The Y lead went to the Y terminal of the thermostat. Now there is a Blue wire (from the A/C) tied to Ground. Which I left and not used on the Honeywell thermostat but it was used on the Coleman for circuit ground. But after turning on the DC and AC power again and testing. Wow! I got a good thermostat! No more waking up at night either freezing or frying from lack of heat or a runaway heater. As for that problem I did find that problem and could fix it. It a cracked solder joint on the circuit board so as you slide the temp slider up or down it either hooked up or didn't. But why fix it when I got better now! Oh a better understanding of the terminal codes... http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Thermostat_signals_and_wiring

Welcome to the family.

What funny I use to work in a local paint shop and all I did was demolition work pull old damaged panels off either from a accident or from a rust damage. Yes. Most panels can be cut free from a spot weld seam then replaced and spot welded again.

Good ol' Tom stirring the pot.

I tend to want to follow diesel4life for the first part in double checking everything before even thinking of buying a ECM. Make sure you not fighting a wiring issue, alternator or something else.

Hmmm... I took care of my terminals all these years and still have factory wire terminals now. But in the pass the few fire trucks I've had to re-do I typically went out to the Cummins shop in Grangeville, ID and picked up a new length of welding cable and solder on terminals. I would solder on a new battery terminal and a new ring terminal and replace the wire as a whole. Reason... You more than likely find out cutting off the terminal head and find the copper strands corroded as well most just try using clamp on style terminals at this point the cable tend to fail rapidly because of easy access of acid to the cable.

Ohm meter the ABS sensors make sure the wire aren't internal broken I've here and done this before and had a ABS sensor lead break internally. If replacing you MUST replace in pairs you can't replace one sensor alone in the front axle.

Another update... I'm now down to 21.9 MPG Vitals I can give... Cargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (80#), 5/8 Tank of fuel High Temp Outside: 60*F (20*F colder) Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 100-105*F. (10*F colder) Coolant Temp: 193-195*F Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 10 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (450-500*F down) (550-600*F up) on average max'ed out at 750-800*F climbing 7% grade at 35-40 MPH (not count slowing down for corners acceleration.) Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 40 PSI Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used (Defrosters). Elevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx. Home: 2,800 Feet measured. Riggins, ID 1,800 feet approx. NOTE: This trip is going to exclude the trip to Riggins, ID so the distance is now for this trip 70 miles.

Smack the FB like button...

I would pull the regulator out and inspect it for damage or debris.

I've seen vacuum lines damaged by mice, vacuum motors damaged by BB's from a air rifle, I've seen vent doors stuck because of a 1 dollar bill wedged in the door, the list goes on... You might take some time and look under the dash for common vacuum issues first but worse case your pulling HVAC box out.

Actually mine didn't get that bad but noticing a slight wetness at that seam and check the nuts and sure enough the nuts where not very tight.

I would do like Flagman says... I would either fix the current headlight case to prevent water leakage or just replace with a junkyard headlight. Then I when out and bought a set of Silver Stars and they are lasting a long time.

I talked with him for a short time and it had something to do with air bubbles in the return line. This is what he chasing right now. There a pump on the back of the CP3 that he ordered.

Yes. Diesel fuel has to heated to 150-180*F to reach flash point. So below these temperatures diesel fuel will not readily ignite with a open flame. I've been direct plumbed like this for over 8 years now and no issues at all. Gauge has worked flawless for the 8 years. The tubing you see in the pictures is Air Brake Tubing and its rated for a burst pressure of 600-800 PSI so I hardly doubt a mere 15-20 PSI pump will blow it.

Just left him a message so I can get more feedback on this...

Actually it can't be done that way. What we are basically doing is unhooking the IAT sensor and stuffing a resistor 2.2k ohm in the plug. So no its not a momentary thing for the MPG fooler. But for the high idle it is. But then again if you start with timer circuits and PCB design your adding cost to it. I know Ed is working darn hard to keep the cost down and keep the design easy.

I've had that happen only once. After the occurrence I just filled it back up and ran it. Never done it again. :shrug:Mine seem to push it out the cap and on to the floor. Dang sick pump puking on the floor.

No codes that I've been told.He describes it as like a piston slap knock kind of.Unknown on the cetane boost I'll ask.

You might have to pull the regulator out and clean and check it for damage. After seeing the adjustable regulators in another post here now I know why you guys have problems. Way too much hardware in one little hole. But I would pull it out and check the regulator for binding or debris.