Mopar1973Man

I've just reused them myself but re-grease them on assembly. You understand it better once you have it apart.

Thanks... I learned this when I swapping my old fiberglass topper from my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon to the 2002 and it didn't fit right. The back of the canopy hung outwards off the bed rails by another 1-2 inches. Then the clamps inside barely even grabbed the topper. Kind of see it in this picture look at the tail. PS: Wow! What a time long ago when my truck was nearly stock.

I can see where Wild and Free is with heavy machinery and what the extreme cold does. But a bit different when most people are plugging in there trucks or keeping them inside a unheated shop which is better than parked out in the cold. Like my rigs are both in garages so they don't start with minus temp but with above +32*F usually. But yes there is times I run for a fire call leave my truck standing out at a shed for hours getting cold or go up to McCall shopping for a few hours and allow it go cold. Either case I still just start up and high idle for a short period to build some heat and then roll on.

It always amazes me when I talk to people on the phone I hear the same thing over and over. "If I don't do the speed limit they will run me over". In all the time I've been working with Salmon River Rural Fire Dept. I've never been to a vehicle accident where some was driving too slow. But been to plenty of vehicle accidents where they were driving either excessive to the speed limit or excessive for the conditions of the road. Like this morning its 14*F above I'm sure there is black ice out there but as I sit here and look at the window I watching vehicle whizz by at good clip of speed. Another thing I typically end up doing since I'm a senior officer of the fire dept is typically doing the paper work on the accident scene. 99.9% are excessive speed accidents. Like I've shown a few times before.... For me to drive to New Meadows, ID is 20 miles.55 MPH = 0.36 Hours = 21.8 Minutes65 MPH = 0.30 Hours = 18.4 Minutes21.8 - 18.4 = 3.4 Minutes difference...I'd rather be a extra 5-10 minutes get to home than in a accident trying to hurry.

There is 2 screw on top. You have to pull the dash bezel first to see the 2 screws.

Since I used a proper adapter for the stereo it left me a pigtail for the lighting for my gauges so I tapped that wire and took it back across the dash for the lighting. Problem solved.

Like on the little 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 46RE I've serviced the trans every 30k miles or every 3rd year. (Mostly every 3rd year). Magnet is clean every time I drop the pan, the fluid is bright red, no debris in the pan either. No need for a flush because the truck was never abused. I do tow with it but I don't get crazy about it. Yeah I know the book says it will haul 8k pounds but even then I tend to lock out over drive and slow down while climbing grade to keep from over heating the trans. Yeah yeah I know I need to install a trans temp gauge on this beast.

Thankfully enough we don't keep the minus weather for very long and usually escape it after a few weeks. But Wild & Free is right if you are truely expecting long term you might consider it. Mine is short term and typically will warm up in a few weeks. Not to mention the day time high typically positive numbers single digits. Still need to watch API grade spec though. To many grab the gasoline oils.

High idle modes are totally automatic and will self start without the fooler in place. All the fooler does is allow you to self start either mode anytime you wish above set point.

I think he thinking of the CP3 pump which is mounted way different from the P7100 and VP44. (Guessin')

I typically grab my ball joint press and press them out one at a time. The double joint is a bit special but not bad to deal with. Same deal one at a time starting from the outside working inward. Make sure to mark the alignment of all the part for balancing purpose. I normal use a sharpie marker or a center punch and line up all the marks. Even spray paint would work.

Actually the only thing my heat shield does is keep it from flopping around. As for heat shield really don't need it being warmer air better for MPG's values in the winter time.

No problems here. Still running 15w-40 all year round with minus weather coming. People have to remember to break down the weight spec. 15W-4015W - This is the weight characteristics of the cold start oil.40 - This is the weight characteristics of a full warmed oil.So looking towards 10w-30 oil make sure that you can get it in a CI-4 or CJ-4 API grade. Make sure it's not a S(?) spec. C - Stands for Compression Engine (Diesel Engine)S - Stands for Spark Engine (Gasoline Engine) Believe or not no one up here in Idaho sell any other weight of oil other than 15w-40 CH-4. 10w-30 is sold as a SN grade. Shouldn't be used.

Since my roof is not leaking at the moment but I know the rubber needs to be treated I'm going to pick up the coating for the roof at a RV dealer in Boise, ID and deal with that first thing in the spring. I've only had 1 small leak in the slide roof at a corner joint where the old putty tape has lifted a bit. I carefully dung out the putty tape a bit and cleaned the area and silicone the joint never had another problem. Funny thing is all the RV sites hate silicone but love that putty tape. Then there is another sealant they love which I hate (can't remember the name) but the previous owner used it on my RV and man talk about a PITA to remove. Ughhh! You need a sharp razor blade in a gasket scrapper handle and very carefully take slices old sealant off. They use around all the clearance lights and it now dried up hard and cracking (possibly leaking?) no need to risk it shave it off and replace with either white or clear silicone. At least I can use a dull putty knife to take silicone up with out worrying about the fiberglass body with a sharp razor blade.(Rant over!)

Like I've learned from watching coolant temperatures and IAT temperatures on the 24V Engines the coolant temperature will effect the offset of the IAT temperature which is typically +40*F over outside temperature. So now if you increase the engine temperature the offset also increases. Now for every 10* drop from 140*F IAT temperature you lose roughly 1 MPG. As the IAT continues to fall in minus weather like as low as +20*F IAT Temperature that I've seen you be down to about 14 MPG tops. Cold air does hurt MPG's. Heck this morning its only 14*F in New Meadows, ID... (Brrr....)

Yeah I know the paint looks like crap and there is a few dents on the driver side from me throwing wood at the truck. So slowly but surely I'm working the bugs out of the little 96 Dodge Ram 1500 and trying to fix the minor issues. I know I could get a gallon of paint and reducer and shot this poor thing in no time flat but I'll wait till spring to do that. But right now I worry about function. Right now its 14*F in New Meadows, ID and getting colder. Price of diesel is 4.069 and unleaded is 3.329 of course I'll drive the gasser if the prices are that low. Now with the Redneck Tonneau Cover I build it myself, Built it strong enough to meet my requirements, etc. Something you can't get from a kit sold online or in a catalog. I've got a friend down the road from me that is trying to weigh the idea of a store bought tonneau cover vs. a home built. His requirements are a buit tough to meet as well. Capable of holding 2-3 foot of snow, capable of folding up or rolling up so the dog can ride in the bed and capable of keeping his goods dry in the bed. Another thing I learned about Dodge Ram truck the beds are not straight and not even square. They are actually tapered.

:piwwp:I wanna see too...

Normally I replace the seal o-ring about every other year. I typically snug the band up tight but not torquing tight.

Anything above 14 VAC is a Digital Volt Meter issue. That is most likely designed only for 60 Hz household power and thats all. A high quality Fluke or SnapOn will read multi-frequencies that vary.

Biodiesel is a dirtier fuel typically if home brewed. Most commercial fuels are now meeting some sort of standards.

:lmao2:Oh you got to be kidding right? Right?! I could protect the bed rails but the rest of the truck would rot away around them.

As far as I found any 6.7L thermostat will work. Make sure to specify your looking for the 200*F and you might end up ordering it. Funny all the parts stores in my area from home to Ontario, OR do not stock it.

Thankfully I got just the SLT series. The dome light is off when the door closes. No fancy key fob to mess everything up.As for your issue I would have to say back to the dealer so they can program the central timer with proper settings or disable the feature.

I'm going to reach out here a little bit. (Flame suit on!)Ok. The biggest problem I see out here at least is that most people want to wine taste and do it on a beer budget. I think the biggest problem today is most people don't know what humility is or know how to be humble. Like I got a friend over in Oregon that admitted to me that its impossible to live here with his Mother to help here out because the jobs don't pay enough and he requires a better standard of living. Really?! That's what I'm getting at. I see this all the time with the younger generation here. They bail out of the canyon to head out to the big city to get slapped down because they have no experience. To come back home to the parents but now become a welfare receiver. I refuse to be part of the system. I refuse to stoop to that level. I refuse to get lazy and quit thinking. Maybe that why I'm constantly finding way to make a dollar. Working on vehicles, helping out on ranches, cutting firewood, repair computers, managing web sites, etc. At the same time I'm will to accept the fact that I might have thin times and live a humble existence. But I know this is only temporary because as long as I keep pushing forward I always find another job.

It's a good thought to try...