Mopar1973Man

Under the dash on the driver side near the transmission hump is the connector for the vacuum system to the HVAC case. Check and see if the connector has separated...

Well there is only 2 things it could be...* Misfiring injector* Poor Compression not capable of firing fuelHow about valve lash? :shrug:But since the injectors have been bench tested it only leave the other... :think:Anyone else have any other ideas?

Another way to verify it... After driving a distance with the pressure low measure the tire temp with your hand. The tires are hot to the touch bring the pressure up a bit more say another 5 PSI. Remember there is 1,100 pound engine up from so the weight is there and must be aware of that factor.

Common practice in the snow too. But with the tires deflated that low be very aware of your road speeds because the tire is flexing much more and will weaken if driven at highway speeds. Getting around town 25-35 MPH I don't see any problems with that.Like my truck in the winter time when there is lots of snow and ice I will drop tire pressures to about 35 all way around if I know the highway is ugly. So just be cautious with your road speed and you'll be fine.

No I was being honest... I think its slick when people find old tyme solutions for common problems. If the worked back then they should work now.

Really nice job...Your right I tend to like the old 1/2 pound marking on the Dricols over the 1 PSI marks on the EV2... But still look awesome..

I had to look this up... Not to hijack but this is the information I did find... Te300 your one smart feller... http://standeyo.com/News_Files/Food/storing_eggs.html

I doubt the turbo is the cause since at idle the engine really doesn't need it... But the fact you turn on the A/C and let out the clutch and it dies is not good. I wonder how much load the A/C is putting on the engine?

Compression check?Like JL Welding a while back had a similar miss and it turned out to be something in the cylinder either a cracked piston or a failed rings. I'm not say this is your problem but it worth looking into checking the cylinder health after 850K miles.

Dang... I should of posted this... As for the fuel pressure is sent down to the nozzle lift the pintle against the spring once the VP44 moves on to the next the pressure fades and closed against the spring. This all happens very rapidly.

The only way I know to impact EGT's is to have more drag than usual.

Prefect video of it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGwV9ueHcz4 1989-1993 1st Gen (VE Rotary injection pump)1994-1998 2nd Gen (P7100 Inline injection pump)1998.5-2002 2nd Gen (VP44 Rotary electronic injection pump)2003-Current 3rd and 4th Gen (Common rail injection)

Once again when hooking up a external regulator you still using the blue with (12V key power) and the greeen wire is used on the the external regulator too. The green wire is cut loose from the old PCM. At this point you'll get a P0622 error code because the PCM should sense no changes in the field voltage. But if the PCM regulator is truly dead then it might not even throw the code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/134-voltage-regulator-mod

JL you know you're covered... APPS adjustment (Voltage) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment APPS reset http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/35-apps-sensor-replacement-procedure P0122 Error code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

Ad http://www.lhmopars.com/MOPAR_Ads/78mgnmad2.html Here check this out... http://brotherscott.org/maya.htm

The last gent I talk to did the fuse trick and found out the alternator is bad. Then replaced in a short order of a few day start acting funny again. Pull the fuse sure enough the problem went away. Took the second alternator back and had the store bench test it. Sure enough diodes failed the test. I'm waiting for him to get back with me on the article he's got video and a proceedure drawn up for this...

No it doesn't. I just disconnect the charge line because if you kill the voltage regulator you lose the entire PCM and you would have massive amount of error codes and be running limp mode.

Sounds better than my old Dodge Jamboree... :rolleyes:It got parked and sat till the mice and rats moved in... Yuk

Simple way to figure out what you need. First for scale your truck...Now do some math...Like my front axle weight is 4,400# so now divide by 2 to get weight for a single tire. So you'll get 2,200# for a single tire. So now look at the weight capacity on the tire typically load range E's are 3,042# so now divide 2,200# by 3,042# should turn out a decimal number of 0.72. Now take the max inflation pressure of 80 PSI and multply it. you'll get 57.6 PSI required for that weight.(axle weight / 2) / tire capacity weight) x max tire pressure = Inflation pressure(4,400# / 2) / 3,042#) x 80 = 57.6 PSIJust do the same for the rear axle weight...

1978 Dodge Magnum XE... No Fords here...

:whistle:I did the same thing... Mine was Dad's RV too.I can tell you the average MPG for mine was about 8-9 MPG running 60-65 MPH or 9-10 MPG running 55 MPH. Then I was so low geared that at 65 MPH I was running 4K on the tach.

Right On!

You could tow a small car behind the motorhome but already bad MPG's will get even worse. Just keeping you thinking more...

As you can see from AH64ID post his offset wonders all over the map. :rolleyes:Mine is constant right at 22.5% from the GPH pulled from the OBDII port. Now a bit more on this offset changes with fuel system mods. Like stock injectors 235 HP is 19.6% and now with RV275 Injectors its 22.5%Then with my 265/75 R16 tires is 0% offset but with the 235/85 R16 tires I've got a 1% offset. It's the fact there is roughly 1/2 MPH off so I bump the offset to make my speed lower pulling my distance shorter and MPG a taste lower but at least it very very close. Now with any generation of overhead console computer they are all factory fixed with particular values and can't be changed so as we modify our truck the overhead computer get nicknamed "Overhead Idiot!"...

In other Rogan sit down with your family and discuss what kind of camping and what you plan on doing with the RV. Like for me its a combo portable living quarters and enjoyment. In other words with the prices here locally going up and up we tend to pack up the RV on a set schedule and camp outside of Boise somewhere so we can drive into Boise or Ontario and pick up supplies for the home then retreat back to the RV which is usually less than 1 hour from Boise or Ontario. So now we take a few day and relax where we are camped at then haul home the supplies we need. So we haul back groceries, hardware, clothing, etc. But instead of 3 hours drive down to Boise and 3 hours home... Now you got that time to shop and do it with rushing. But it nice we can detach the trailer leave it behind and still shop with the truck. So now on the enjoyment I can load the ATV in the bed of the truck haul it with the trailer go up in the back country set up camp and go play with the ATV for a few days. Yeah I know you could put a trailer behind the the motorhome... But again you can leave the trailer in place and drive back to town with the truck pick gas and supplies.Just want you to think long and hard... :think:I'll admit its a good deal to jump on but highly consider your usage first before the price!