Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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injectors
Measure the pintles and the bore and be sure they are fitting properly... Like mine where gummed up with coked fuel and the pintle needles where about 1/2 thousandth tight. After cleaning then they fit good and smooth again.Might also look into your fuel filter and the media your using I aim for a 2-3 micron filter. Using either a Fleetguard or a Donaldson filter.
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not a good way to end the day
Just be easier to convert over to a Big Line Kit and be done with it... Vulcan Performance sells the kits and they are rather good price for excellent quality! http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/prs.htm
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steering wheel nut size
Dang good deal...
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injectors
Dirt and debris... Same thing that was wrong with my RV275 I got from CajFlynn they seen over 400K miles of roads. But they just didn't work to good for me. I took them apart and clean them up and everything works good now... Injector Cleaning
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Dead Truck
P-pump conversion will cost you upwards of $3,500 to $4,000 said and done...I second the motion for the stock VP44... :smart:What you spend in conversion I can have enough VP44's to make a million miles nearly...
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Low end power
ISX did the tesing a while back and adjusted his valves for max gap and it still ran just fine just doggy. So I'm going to agree with him it either injectors or timing...
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1800 miles 12.5 mpg towing
A way to find out is measure the amount of torque required to turn the axle with and without the front shaft in.
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1800 miles 12.5 mpg towing
Less rotational mass... :smart:On our truck the front axles are soid so the axles and the driveshaft spin all the time so if you pull the driveshaft off then you reduced the rotational mass on the front axle (in theory).
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Low end power
Well I would still consider the pop testing of the injectors.
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Dead Truck
I heard that too but the results are mixed some say it works fine and other say it doesn't. Years ago I was saying the same then that I got slapped down for it... So I tend to say "Put back the right part if you want it to run right!"
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1998 dodge ram 24v cummins 3/4 ton 4x4 automatic wiring issue.....need help
Not very reassuring...
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1998 dodge ram 24v cummins 3/4 ton 4x4 automatic wiring issue.....need help
Shouldn't hurt it but it will most likely not work right because the VIN numbers won't match... Dodge insures that all computers and software are right and proper by using VIN number locking schemes. So if the VIN number doesn't match it might not work...
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My first gasser
Congrads on the jeep... Now you'll have no excuse not to fix up the Cummins better...
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Low end power
Take notice to white smoke in the table... [TABLE=align: center] [TR] [TD=bgcolor: #ffffff]Engine parameter:[/TD] [TD=bgcolor: #ffffff, colspan: 2] TIMING is: [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=bgcolor: #ffffff]RETARDED ( - )[/TD] [TD=bgcolor: #ffffff]ADVANCED ( + )[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]EXHAUST TEMP[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]CYLINDER PRESSURE[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]INTAKE MANIFOLD PRESSURE (BELOW P-TORQUE) WASTEGATED [/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BSFC (brake specific fuel consumption) [/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]NOX (oxides of nitrogen)[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]HEAT REJECTION[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]HYDROCARBONS (HC) [/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BLACK SMOKE: 1000RPM[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BLACK SMOKE: PEAK TORQUE[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BLACK SMOKE: RATED[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]WHITE SMOKE: < 1000RPM[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]WHITE SMOKE: > 1000RPM[/TD] [TD]increases[/TD] [TD]decreases[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
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ECM Issue?
Well you going to have to check for error codes ot see what is going on first thing...Also make sure you batteries are in a good state of charge before testing anything.
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raptor fuel pump
Thats a sleeve style regulator...What you have to be sure of that its not binding up.
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almost done my truck but need last minute opinions
Well for a p-pumped engine you really only need a boost and pyrometer but it nice to see fuel pressure then you know you fuel status gelling, plugged filter, lift pump failed, overflow valve failed, etc.
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Having some computer issues
Also relize that Windows XP was obsolete after 2009. Microsoft EOL (End Of Life) is about 5-7 year and Windows XP being the longest living software. http://support.microsoft.com/lifecycle/?LN=en-us&c2=1173&x=10&y=13
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raptor fuel pump
Throw some pictures up so we all can take a peek a second maybe give you an idea...
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Changing coolant question..... Distilled or not?
So I guess I'm exception to the rule again...
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raptor fuel pump
Not that I know of...
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raptor fuel pump
Well your this far document it...
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raptor fuel pump
Raptor... The best I could do is the Airdog...
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No defrost
Thanks Dave I knew you could handle this one...
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Low end power
I tend to agree with ISX on the white smoke issue... :smart:But to open the door in both directions... You could pull all 6 injectors and have them pop tested to verify they are working properly. But then returning back to ISX ideas yes if timing is truely off then the white smoke will be more dominate at cold start up and have a foul smell of unburnt fuel because typically it retarded.