Mopar1973Man

I know I'm a manual 5 speed but here is my 2 cents... I typically tow my 30' Jayco in 5th gear at 55-60 MPH with 3.55 rear end. But as soon as I can't hold 55 MPH I slip back to 4th at 50 MPH to protect the 5th gear nut issue. So now at 45-50 MPH in 4th gear I'm running right around 1800-2000 RPM's. When I leave home I find myself in 4th gear for quite a few miles because of the twisty windy roads around here. Once I make New Meadows Valley it pretty much flat and can pull in 5th for most everything. Why did I jump in the ring? Well 5 speed trans is really close to Auto. 4th Gear Auto 0.69:15th Gear Man 0.75:1 3rd Gear Auto 1:14th Gear Man 1:1 So when you push you OD OFF button you just the same as me in 4th Gear.

Increasing the cetane will make the fuel burn hard and fast like and hit like a hammer. Reducing the cetane will cause the fuel to burn slower and push more. I know AH64ID doesn't agree with 2 cycle oil but it worth a try (200:1 ratio).

The other problem with washable media filter is that most people end up getting dirt on both sides now when the filter dries then the dirt is released into the turbo and engine. Dry media filters are the best bet out there. Also people tend to grade filters on appearance. The filter minder does a excellent job of letting you know when to change the filter. The filter minder is in inches of water column not mercury. So its super sensitive to any vacuum just place the nipple of the filter minder your lips and lightly suck on the unit you'll find it moves rather easy. The other problem is the stock air box will deform over time and allow dirt to pass. There is 2 answers here.. 1. Grease the filter on both side of the gasket so the grease fills the void of the deformed plastic housing. (Messy but works).2. BHAF or aftermarket filter assembly. BHAF work really well in dirt conditions and are extremely cheap over most all name brands.

Because the solenoid will blow the bulb in a short amount of time thats why there no longer offered. Now a tidbit of info neither normal blubs or LED lit switch will survive the solenod pulse. I've tried both in my truck and typically about 1-2 days the bulb is blown in the switch. My last one was a pretty blue LED that lit up when the jake was active. (POOF!)

Meth/water injection is all based on boost pressure so if your like myself where I only see 2-5 PSI typically I would never really use the water/meth injection. But now towing you'll see for sure but how much bonus I don't know... Johnfak (member here) is a good person to ask thought.

ECM... ECM is in sole control of the lift pump circuit... No relays unless you got a aftermarket... G107 is behind the starter if your wondering so you'll have to remove the starter to get that ground...

Yeah but is was distroyed first time it was pulled...

Some one was lighting off big sticks of something last night. Very deep BOOM!

Typically start out at 128:1 ratio. But the working span for the Dodge Cummins seem to be about 100:1 to 200:1 ratio.

Scangauge doesn't report proper MAP signal for 1998.5 to 2002...

Hmmm... "discount?!"

I don't step on that pedal very often hence why they lasted so long... Since I use my exhaust brake mostly I couldn't see the need to spend big money on brake pads. But thinking of that it might be a good thing to inspect the exhaust brake soon.

Dang! I've never seen one plugged up like that before... Even mine after 7 years of dirt roads never even came close...

No difference between synthetic to petroluem based oil in performance. But I've found that most all syntheitc oil don't have a PPD (pour point depressant) which petroluem base oils do have which is a bonus because it does aid the pour point of winter time fuels where synthetics don't. As for american based 2 cycle oils most all oils now are ashless in design so there is no worry with ash deposits.

Trust me... I was asking if he wanted the torch to hea them up again... He was ready to whip my arse...

If you checked the oil cooler and its good then yes its a head gasket...

Well today I finally finished this project. Month later... But I got James back down here and we figured out a whole new game plan and managed to get them pressed out without even using heat. Still used the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press but when you get some pressure laid to it take your shop sledge hammer and smack the knuckle with a good hit. I didn't hit the tool or the joint just the side of the knuckle ears and BAM! It would jump. Start wrenching down and it continues to press out like it should. I've taken a short test drive and it seems a bit tighter for steering but good. So more to come later...

Just like the title said... I finally changed out my factory brake pads for the first time in 9 years and 187K miles. Now I hooked up with Relentless's Dad in New Meadows, ID and had him turn the rotors for me which he did a awesome job on. I had ordered all my parts from RockAuto.com and got front and rear axle brake pads, full seal kit for front and rear calipers and got new slide pin boots for a total of $103.49 with shipping. Old front pads Old Rear Pads

At least he's a thinkin'

What's nice about it is the upper tubing is not just welded to the top of the main bumper it actually passes through the main tube and is welded at both end giving some serious strength. Boy has the skills to weld that is for sure.

Meet you on the reverse side. 1 US gallons converts to 3.78 Liters but check currency for you... Like here in Idaho it $4.079 for diesel currently so its roughly 11 (PLN) per US gallon. So divide by 3.78 to get liter price 2.91 (PLN)... So here in Idaho isn't much better. :banghead: http://coinmill.com/PLN_USD.html#USD=4

Your quicker than I was about pics... :banghead:

Well let me get my truck rolling again and I'll retest my data... Dragging brake pads do wonders on EGT's...

Well another way to look at it... #1 Diesel is use for winter applications where the pour point need to be modified to keep from gelling up from winter cold but most people complaint of the poor power and poor MPG. This fuel is usually very low in BTU content. #2 Diesel is typical what the world runs on and ranges here in the states between 40-45 cetane and has a about 130K BTU's gives good power and MPG's. #4 Diesel is typically use for very large diesel engine like on cruise ship and such. This fuel has a much highier BTU content but a much lower cetane number. Also the engines usually have a Max RPM of about 100-500 RPM's. So in this case the engine is traveling slow enough to take on a very slow burning fuel and get the most power out of it. Total engine weight: 2300 tons Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm

Most likely the tensioner is the cause... You might see more wear damage to the tensioner after its removed from the truck. I pulled one off a Ford Powerstroke and you could see it with the belt on, but now take the belt off it was fine. After removing you could see the shoulders of the tensioner where wore out and causing it to rock over. But I think the Non A/C route puts less belt face on the tensioner... (Gotta look at the label on my truck)...