Mopar1973Man

Your always a friend here... If you just need a ear to listen to let you vent my phone is always their for you. No matter what happens you have tfriends here and we are still here to help out with anything.

The sad part is someone as a member here or members have had this kind of problem. Hence we post about it and share what is going on and create articles so we don't forget how to fix said issues. This what makes M73M different from other web forums. We work to solve puzzles and then save the solution to the said puzzle as an article. That way other members that find their selves in this issue have a much greater chance of fixing said issues.

Boise, ID will be like 63*F on Thursday... Up here in New Meadows be close to 59*F by Thursday. The part that worries me is the sudden change is weather and possible flooding might occur or mudslides.

Remember fuses... ALWAYS CARE SPARES! Stock ND or Bosch alternator is rated for only 136A DC. Like my friend Russ I did the W-T ground mod on his truck. First started with 150A circuit breaker. He burned that one up. Then I swapped mine in known mine works correctly. Burned it up too. Then swapped to a fuse he blew the fuse on the alternator left him stuck. I had to order more fuses. Once I did he managed to blow one more fuse before I figure out his batteries where dead and he was doing long pulls with his winch and never allowing the batteries to catch up. Then the alternator attempt to hold the voltage at 14.3 or so but the winch draws more than the batteries and alternator could provide. The wattage load is not changing at this point while the winch is running for so under normal conditions its a 4,350 watt load, which now add in the weak batteries so the voltage falls to 10 volts or so now do the math... So instead of 300 amp to run the winch it jumps up to 435 amp because the batteries are weak and then the current draw on the alternator maxes out and POP goes the breaker or fuse. This is not the alternators fault... It the dead batteries that cause it. The alternator job was never to try and hold the entire electrical load. Its the batteries job to hold the entire electrical load but the job of the alternator is when the loads are reduced to recharge the batteries again. Gotta remember not to long ago the 1970's vehicles (Dodge Cars and Trucks) only had either 45A alternator or 60A alternator.

Injectors are not properly pop tested. Injectors installed incorrectly causing pressure leaks in the head. When you installed the injectors what did you tighten first the cross over tube or the injector hold down cap? Correct Answer is Crossover Tubes always first light seat the tubes into the injectors before pinning the injector down with the hold down cap. Once you tightened the hold down cap first then the injector can't self center to make a good seal on the cross over tube. Did you have the injectors pop tested and flow matched? Good idea to have them all tested and flow match for that group of 6 injectors instead of 6 random injectors toss in a box and not verified. As for misfire hot is a sign the pop pressure is typically too low or there is high pressure leak inside the head from installing incorrectly.

I went the extra step and relocated the pressure sensor to fender adding 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line to allow for more fade time for the pulse to reach the sender.

Ok. You need a snubber installed before the pump and stack on the sensor. Similar to this...

2000 up should all be fly by wire cruise control. The vacuum motor for cruise was used for Automatic transmission mostly for the throttle valve cable. Manuals switched over to fly by wire being there is nothing mechanical needed to be move or pulled. If you just take in account of all the little things that changed from 98.5 to 02 for our truck you would be surprised. Crank sensor relocated to cam sensor the actual cam sensor function was removed. Vacuum cruise to fly by wire for manuals. Full disc brakes from drum rear brakes. RWAL upgraded to full 4 wheel ABS 3 MAP sensor changes. 53 block. Which they upgrade to fix this. Killer dowel pin gear case change to prevent this. This is just a small sample of the changes in 4.5 years.

Basically you can buy a rebuilt ND or Bosch alternator. BEFORE leaving the store make sure to have the new one bench tested. I've actually bought brand new alternators that are bad in the box. Now once that is done then make sure to do the W-T ground wire mod, then you might want to do the PCM protection fuse mod. Have both batteries tested if one fails replace both. Then do a voltage drop test of all the cables. Ground wire mod reduces the AC noise considerably for the entire truck... The alternator protect fuse mod stops any kind of short to the blue wire from burning up your PCM. Then the voltage drop test can be used anywhere in the system to measure voltage loss on cables and connection so they can be repaired.

Just take a moment of time and look over the fact the US Gov't has the means of controlling weather. Using HAARP which has been around for quite some time patent was filed in 1987 by a Dr. Bernard Eastlund. Yes, all the Gov't knows about this and has been in operation since the 1987. Like change the ozone layer? Hmm.... https://www.wanttoknow.info/war/haarp_weather_modification_electromagnetic_warfare_weapons

Yup. I talked to Jacob Kidd at @dieselautopowerabout 2 years ago and he told me he's stock a 62/68/12 turbo that is exhaust brake ready. Kind of pricey back then... I'm sure it still is... I get it... Right now I'm trying to save the money for the clutch on the 2006 Dodge so I get it to roll soon. Even that ruck needs a $230 dollar wastegate control valve.

Most likely the bounce is most people install the sensor right at the VP44 and the water hammer kills the sensor in a mere few months. NEVER hook a pressure sensor directly to the VP44 this is the source of the water hammer. Even my fuel pressure gauge is 5 feet from the VP44 on 1/8" brake line mounted to the fender. It's not the engine vibration like so many tout, actually its the water hammer and the distance allows the pulses to fade. I've got both a snubber at the tap point and a needle valve to shut down this leg of he plumbing if a failure would to happen.

Most likely software related. Being the only thing different is the software. Technically the guts of the ECM is the same except for the early one have EPROM issues. When you use a Smarty or SuperChips tuner after about 1,000 flashes the ECM dies. Being there is like 50 so odd different version of software for each year of truck for the 4.5 years of VP44 ECMs. Make sure the Quadzilla high idle is turned off. Like @Me78569warned about mixing the two can have some weird issues with running. Not a happy truck.

Ummm... DAP has a 62/86/12 that will work with a exhaust brake! Ask @dieselautopowerabout the turbo... I want to buy it but bills first...

Most like pretty expensive for that ride being diesel.

Because the ECM has already lost it mind from the high AC voltage. Hence the P0606 code. Now with margin parts inside the ECM all it takes is a bit of heat and it gives up.

Hmmm... Maybe because the timing piston is seized up and the pump is constantly calling for advancement and the solenoid get hot from constant having voltage applied. Now like this pump I took apart the timing piston was so seized up I need a propane torch and heat the entire body around the timing piston to even pull it out. Back to the solenoid and it heat. So if the timing piston is stuck and ECM is calling for advancement 100% of the time but the timing piston isn't moving of course the solenoid would be hot and P0216 code present. Typically like we call it the death code because there is nothing left to do but replace the pump. Even if you had the tools to pull the piston out and replace the harden steel sleeve and the timing piston you still don't have the Bosch 815 test stand to recalibrate the PSG to the new timing piston then flash the new calibrate o the PSG. Then most of the people here have been doing pumping and return fuel back to the fuel basket in the fuel tank. I'm not... I draw straw out of the tank directly. My fuel temp rarely are ever above 140*F but if you coming out of the sender basket in the tank you fuel temps can be as high as 160*F. Being I'm running the Quadzilla I can monitor the fuel temp. As for timing I can only see the "commanded timing" not the actual timing. Even when my last pump got stuck FULL advanced I could see the commanded timing that was normal but here is my truck barely doing 30 MPH and knocking hard from the advanced timing. As you see my fuel temp and IAT run tag team.

Yeah I get it... The COVID-19 and the stress of today put a lot of stress on the relationship too. Sorry for the break up.

ECM is fried from AC noise damage is done. This is the second round of P0606 code so I'm sure that your ECM needs to be rebuilt. Fail. Anything over 0.05 is a fail... So yeah the alternator cooked the ECM...

Oh another note of what you'll notice is the alternator will not charge at all when the P0341 code is actually occurring. When the tach signal is dropped the ECM can keep the engine going but the alternator will shut down because of the lack of tach signal to turn on the field leads. I did notice the voltage was falling and not charging then POP the ECM seen signal again and started charging. I didn't put two and two together till I was on the road today and figured that out.

Take all that junk out and do the W-T ground wire mod. I'm only 11mV AC for alternator noise.

Rusted linkage how about that? The salt has done its damage. It the fact you cant make a solid gear change and bouncing back out. After shooting PB blaster all over the shift linkage and shifted a few times it helped. Still you need to shift to 4WD LO first then back up to 4WD HI that way it completes the pull. I did crawl under and look yeah its in sad shape being all the highway miles driven and salt on the highways.

Not bad to install after you wrap your mind around the idea of blind install. You got to do it totally by feel. My mistake was trying a Allen socket first and it rather hard to insert that into a hex bolt. After figuring it out its not that hard. My only problem is my hands are pretty large compare to most so fitting and articulation of my fingers to move the sensor in place is a bit tough. Electrical tape is my go to socket binding stuff. Just thick enough that it sticks and put the sticky side towards the socket. 32*F here at the house but New Meadows was about 22*F. This morning 17*F with a wind chill of 10*F. I'm heading to Lewiston to restock the house (food and supplies). Brief buck or shudder. Then normal again, the CEL comes on right afterwards. NAPA replacement is exactly the same everything. Same shell design, same violet colored o-ring. Just about $60 dollars for the sensor.

Well after 429k miles my cam sensor gave up. That being said let me show you my 104 mile trip to Council ID for a cam sensor... I get home to change the sensor but stuffing you hand below the VP44 in 32°F weather you start to have problems. I got smart and rolled the truck in the shop and plugged in the block heater. About this time @JAG1 calls... wasted a good hour or so on the phone BSing with him. After that I ran down to the shop and proceeded to change the sensor. Now knowing what I did for my buddy Russ his was an Allen bolt. Mine happens to be an 8mm socket. Grabbed an 8mm 1/4 socket and an 1/4 inch extension that is a wobble tip. Reached in and loosen the bolt. Yeah the photo is upside down. Yeah I'm missing a nut on my VP44. Back to the sensor, after getting the bolt loosen I grabbed a magnet to capture the bolt. Then reaching in and grabbed the wires and pulled the sensor out of the hole. Then just unplug. Now you can plug the new senor in or not. Install the sensor back in its hole. You can feel for the location of the tab. Turned back into proper placement. Now take a small bit of electrical tape put it over the socket or Allen key now this will wedge the bolt to the socket or Allen. Install the bolt. If you didn't plug in the sensor now you have to reach in with long needle nose to plug in the sensor. Best to plug in before installing the sensor. TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES

In my book, RV275 injectors are still basically a stock injector for the Cummins ISB RV engine. The difference is a mere +40 HP (Standard output) or +30 HP (for High Output engine). RV edition of Cummins ISB was a 275 HP engine. Hence the injector name. Back in the day we only had a handful of tuners that could add extra fuel and limited smoke control and no real timing control. This made it hard to build a truck up without smoke. Like myself, I started with stock injectors and the Edge Comp tuner will do very well. Now when I stepped up to RV275 it became smokey just a bit because of lack of timing control and fuel map control basically Edge Comp just adds to the stock maps for only stock injectors Then the +50 HP smoke pretty good. The problem is more you increase the injector size the more you need to advance timing for the larger droplets to convert from liquid to vapor. Hence the smoke problem. Now with Quadzilla Adrenaline, you can control both fuel and timing. I've gone all the way up to +150 HP injectors popped at 320 bar now and no smoke. This is because of the amount of timing I running versus the size of injectors.