Mopar1973Man

FASS or an AirDog. In tank pump will need to removed and converted to a draw straw. You could do a mechanical belt driven pump too. Same thing in tank pump has to be converted too.

Local hardware store... Nothing difficult.

Risible links are buried in the loom. Check the alternator end for 12V. If the risible link is bad it will be zero volts. Field leads could be bad. If the + side shorts to ground it will blow the ECM voltage regulator.

Both on the main shaft. Both are wore out hence why the mainshaft moves and kicks out of gear.

Exactly what you'll do. Pull the clamp, slide the boot back, measure with calipers.

That is the only reason it will kick out of gear is the main shaft is moving fore and aft as you decelerate. During all my transmission work I ask for all the old parts during the rebuild. This way I can account for what work was done and see possibly the damaged parts. When I broke the mainshaft I had the same problem of kicking out of gear. Mainshaft was moving. When I ate 5th gear it worked fine. Shaft was solid not moving.

Should be no wiring mods to the APPS wiring. Either to the signal or ground legs period. Sensor ground is NOT body ground.

Caster angles could possibly affect the thrust angle of the truck slightly too. Might tire checking tire pressure and maybe do a tire rotation.

Bearing failure. The mainshaft to moving forward and backwards enough to pop the shift ring out of gear.

Could of been a nozzle that cracked. Pintle needle stuck open. In any case send them off to be pop tested is the right thing to do.

Typical sold as a pair.

You can tap the wire and tune back on Level 3 which is the same of turning off the wiretap.

Tire pressure?

Too cold. Need at least the 190F thermostat. I'm wanting to go back to a 200F thermostat as well. My last Gates was too wild I might try for a NAPA 200F...

Just send the module. The hydraulics stay.

Pull the Edge out of the circuit and reset your error codes. Go for a test drive if the code comes back the MAP sensor is bad. If not the the Edge boost fooler is bad.

Gov press sensor and gov press solenoid. Most likely a error code for it as well. Won't trip the CEL light.

How many miles on the injectors? What is the exact idle RPM? What is engine load in Park? Like I've seen another member that has zero engine load, idle is like 810 to 816. This is a true sign the injectors are tired.

Unit bearing the tone ring failed in the unit bearing. After replacing both bearings ABS went off.

Bigger the gauge less voltage lost in travel. This only counts most when you have long distance runs. Example the ground for the rear tail stuff are on the front fender. Now main cables count for high current flow like cold start mornings with high draw.

@dripley Could be worse we could all buy OEM APPS which should be better but actually its worse off being the logic chip inside to control the IVS states. Timbo's is the best option for APPS sensor. Wells ain't bad but its back to logic chips to control the IVS state again.

Even my truck has a low power band right up to about 20-25 MPH then huge change in power. It's not the APPS for sure its the speed and tach signal for me. Since the PCM had no tie to the transmission. Usually that power jump is what breaks the tires loose being in 4th gear matting down the throttle at 25 to 30 MPH and it off to the races at that point.

Impressive. At least there is now confirmation that 150 HP @ 320 bar is a good combo. That 8 hole should be good for MPG. Tidbit... The winter time offset should be about -20*F from engine oil temp and coolant temp. Still batting good 20+ MPG yet with temps already in the +10*F in the mornings. 62/68/12 would be a good turbo (no exhaust brake). Might need to tweak the fuel map slightly to control smoke.

There is no set voltage for an APPS... Stock or logic IVS APPS required voltage for setting the IVS switch state. That's all. Timbo's APPS uses the angle of the bell crank to set the IVS state. Where a logic APPS like stock will use voltage to state if its idle or throttling state.

Need two mods... This one fixes the AC noise problem completely. This protects the PCM from shorts on the blue field lead.