Mopar1973Man

Here you go...

I really have a good grasp of how this works and how to get the best use from it. Max Load Timing Offset is used in conjunction with vehicle weight and/or weight towing. In a nutshell, your cruising along in your cruise timing and then you just exceed the limits of that now you flop over to the Max Load Timing Offset. This will retard the number of degrees you have set at this point. For example my economy tune... Timing: 17°, 20°, 23°, 26°, Max 27° Max Load Timing Offset: 1° Then my Cruise timing is 6° Normally cruise down the road empty my truck loves the 24° @ 60 MPH timing in cruise state. When I exceed my cruise load then it flips to the Max Load Timing Offset which now retards back to 18 @ 60 MPH. Now I hauled the RV back home tonight. Figured I would hold to my typical driving standards. I found that the Economy Tune works awesome but has a small tweak needed. I need to bump the Max Load Timing Offset to 2°. This is because when I'm cruising and roll into to the throttle and giving more power I started to buck a bit. The timing curve is just a bit to steep so the change to 2° on the Max Load Timing Offset made it quit bucking. My tow tune should be... Timing: 17°, 20°, 23°, 26°, Max 27° Max Load Timing Offset: 1° Cruise timing is 6° A guideline is more weight or towing weight you need to add more to the Max Load Timing Offset to pull bit more retard across the map. Empty trucks with no cargo can use 1° Max Load Timing Offset or less. More weight more you need to head towards 3° of Max Load Timing Offset. If you only experiencing the bucking at WOT then that RPM range that it starts at is the one that is too advanced. Might consider redoing you spread if you are uneven between RPM bands. Another thing I figured out that any Economy Tune that you truck likes the timing on can be used in just about all normal driving condition. Meaning that like my Economy Tune works great timing wise for Towing but need to tweak the Max Load Timing Offset and possibly the fuel map. So if I was to build a Performance Tune I would clone out the timing setting again most likely tweak it for less Max Load Timing Offset keeping the timing more advanced. Then just build a fuel map to fit the purpose. My suggestion is that if you build your economy tune and can reach good high mark like 20 MPG or better that timing set up is what you'll use for all your tune from here on in. The only time you'll possibly change that timing setting is with wear of the injectors and losing pop pressure or changing injectors outright then you have to find your optimal timing all over again. As for finding optimal timing you have to experiment to find the values that produce the lowest EGT and Engine Load values at a set speed. Like all my testing was based 65 MPH and built the values to give me the lowest of both. Now I will warn that you can crank up some serious timing advancement on cruise state but you need to listen to the engine there is a change of the rattle and the MPG will fall with too much (negative torque). My testing of the +7° was too much and lost some MPG from it. I will say 18° to 19° in performance timing (non-cruise state) at 2,000 RPM works pretty good. I will release a new version for my tow tune soon.

How about Looking at the final ratio? Tires sizes? So far I've got close to 378k miles and never broke a input shaft on NV4500. This is strictly because my final ratio has either been 3.55 or now 3.69 which takes the stress off the shaft then being I'm running 245's now the tire gladly break lose before the input shaft does. Now with my economy tune and the fuel map its limited to 30 PSI of boost which is fine. Still running the OEM input shaft. Even better yet never had a 5th gear nut issue either. Now what I have broken was my main shaft.

Yeah the standard Quadzilla is more than enough you can turn it up for 3700 RPM.

Give me a bit when I get home I can dig up the wiring diagram for power distribution.

Quick ratio for 265s and smaller. It just like putting bigger tires on 3.55 gears. You should only do this on 4.10 axles.

DAP uses both Industrial Injection and Midwest Injection.

Cracked fuse. As the fuse warms up it opens and drops the power.

Should be good. Are you seeing bounce in fuel pressure?

I do quite a bit with Diesel Auto Power. I've bought pumps from Vulcan Performance too.

What was you gap between your straw and the bottom?

My return is the filler neck then I'm old school draw straw. No sump and not using stock pickup basket.

You've got a FASS I'm an assuming you got the Parker Push-Lock fittings right? You didn't use any sealing tape or compounds on the threads right?

Typically, on a diesel it is timing related too.

Shhhh... Don't give away all my dirt...

That's what I'm talking about the plate not the horn. The horn will fit no matter what. It the base plate and the integrated grid heater. Grid heater is below the plate not above like on our trucks.

Ummm No...

I doubt a 4th gen intake plate will fit. I'll have to get a picture of the setup since I have got a 2012 Ram in the shop doing injectors on already.

You want a nice clear cone shaped spray pattern. Should be even in shape. Then pop pressure for us starts at 310 bar (4,500 PSI).

Make sure that if you guys do give the author a bit of thanks for his article.

You can run a 24V ISB as a standalone with the ECM. Problem. If you want diagnostics or work OBDII port you need both the PCM and the instrument cluster. The PCM starts the CCD Network bus. The Cluster is what gives bus bias to the CCD Network. If you do go the stand alone you completely with diagnostic information. Yeah there is the CANBus but its limited in what it can do being the diagnostics was based more so in the CCD Network side. Hence why weird things like engine coolant temperature only report to 204 then drops to -40 on the CANBus where the CCD bus works correctly. You could never run a Smarty or any kind of OBDII port tools on a standalone Cummins. As for the lift pump the ECM will still control the lift pump. Just controlled by tach signal. If you happen to wreck the tach hits zero the ECM cuts power to everything. As for starting and run its behaves like normal.

Got the truck and the go-ahead to pull the injectors for testing for $150. I know some of you are curious about what a 6.7L injector looks like. The truck has 195k miles on it. I found that number 6 had tooling mars on the side of the body. I'm betting that someone else was swapping injectors to make it just sell.

Clash of software. The cluster has to be a match for the PCM to make the CCD network being the PCM is the source of the CCD network and the cluster gives Bus Bias to the network so if there is a software mismatch then most likely it will not work. Really common with franken-trucks that get assembled from mismatched parts. Solution: get matching ECM, PCM and Cluster from the same truck and same year.

That is the limitation of the Smarty S-03 you have no control of the timing to go above and beyond what the Smarty will allow. As I just released my Quadzilla Tune with the high timing and touched 21.32 MPG.

I'm going upwards I'm going to aim for mid 20's for a goal. My all-time high mark is 27.2 MPG. That was back on RV275's and Edge Comp. Just reaching 21 MPG on 150 HP injectors and Quadzilla is quite the feather in the cap.