Mopar1973Man

I should con you into writing an article on this for others. I'm sure others would jump on it.

He got away for cheap. I was right at $2,000 with the ARP studs, machine shop (valve guides and seals), then gaskets and so forth.

Wow. Talk about a time long forgotten. Back when pedal cars are made of steel. Woman (or girls) wore dresses. I wish I could turn back the clock some times.

Makes me want to pull my cover again and check my bolts. Might explain the weep oil leak behind the case.

Got them installed. I used every single blub. All 20 got used. I'm doing a full run test. I've got all the light on while I'm here at the RV and test to see any get hot. Here you go...

Size is only half of it. Weight is the other part. 285's typically are close to 90 to 100 pounds a tire with the wheel. The rotational mass has a minus in there too. This why ricers beat us hands down. Small tires and little rotational mass.

Me I opted for the tip to keep the soot off the truck. 5 inch tip is what a friend gave me.

My current tune looks to be able to reach nearly 22 MPG then still on the 245's. If I can do it twice ill release the tune for download. Find out more when I fill with fuel today.

Quadzilla runs off of Circumference measurement rather than rev/mile or tire height. If you want to just pass the stock speed signal without math enter 95.7 that is the pass through number.

White smoke... Timing retarded excessive blowby worn piston rings pop pressure too low on the injectors valve lash incorrect Basically white smoke is unburnt fuel that didn't ignite. Being that compression creates the heat to vaporize the fuel to make it go bang. Now that makes you think of all the things that might affect compression or fuel atomization. Finer the automation of the fuel the easier it is to ignite.

I don't care who you are that is a killer looking truck even with the tip. don't feel bad I've got a 5-inch tip hanging out that side too.

Gotta ask did you tighten the injectors hold down first or the cross over tubes first?

99.4 inches... Circumference...

Well... I guess that is a dud... I'm still playing with old 90's V8 engines.

LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes)... Some diodes don't like AC power banging away on them. The reverse current creates a huge amount of heat. This is what burned it up.

245/75 R16 empty truck 20.84 MPG, when towing my RV 14.93 MPG. (recent numbers) My 66 MPH is exactly 2,000 on the tach and this thing climbs mountains like a beast. Even the RV back there it doesn't slow down and doesn't get hot.

If you could back probe the plug which I'm pretty sure you can't do. That would be the way to measure voltage. One way I really don't like is to take a sewing needle and push it into the wire as a test point. Then measure with a DVM. Afterward wipe a small amount of silicone in the needle holes.

Wow. That 3rd Gen write up worked on the 2nd gen hood. Oh please share the details. I want to know what you ordered for parts.

Quadzilla only maths out the shift based on the speed. If you don't have your tire size set up right then the speed shows wrong and the gear is going to show wrong.

62/68/12 would be a good turbo. Even my 60/60/12 is holding up to the abuse of the Quadzilla and 7 x 0.010 injectors. You will be soon you just jinx yourself. I did the same thing ran around with 45 PSI boost and finally about 6 months later the coolant jacket blew out in the back of the head. It just best to do the ARP studs and no worry about the head gasket. Stock bolt will stretch even in stock fuel. ARP studs are a different tinsel strength to prevent the stretching.

Ok, let us get science into the answer then. Grab an IR temp gun and measure turbine housing after a good run and report the temperature.

Actually no. That's not true. They would have replaced the alternator and found it doesn't charge then grab the other write up and install an external regulator and go on. Now you can add the newer mod and never worry about the PCM failing.

Good to go on the injectors. Still up there. It when the engine load drop below 5% and idle speed is 825 RPM and higher.

Your welcome (under my breath - That suxed...)

Better stability compared to the SAC. At least in my experience, the first set of SAC 7 x 0.0085 injectors had a nasty stalling issue and very lopey. Now with the 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar they got a very mild lope but smooth at an idle. Doing the tune work for higher pop pressure. Stock injectors by FSM specs are 310 bar pop pressure for the injector. Most performance injectors start popping at 300 or 305 bar for flow reasons. Now which you step over to the higher side and jump to 320 bar the flow is reduced but the efficiency is increased. The fuel is atomized better and ignites easier. 320 bar will give better longevity to the injector too making them last longer. I drive a Cummins Big Cam 400 for the fire dept I know what you're talking about. As for myself, I've got 250-mile trips to do 3 days a week. I'm after the efficiency of the injector. So far I'm on my way past 20 MPG and still rising.