Mopar1973Man

Just realized the Member map function was missing on the site. I'm attempting to rebulid it and get it back up and running.

Because this body was more designed for the V8 gas engine than the I6 Cummins diesel. This is why the vacuum pump was added and the vacuum comes out of the dash on the passenger side. As you see the 3rd gen up stopped with vacuum and went to electric stepper motors.

I was being honest. I don't use any thread locker or anything on frame stuff... I'm in the rust world too and I typically put anti-seize on everything. Other than that you'll be cutting it off with a torch in the future. Again being serious... My last thing to do on the axles was doing wheel u-joints and 4 hours beating on a unit bearing to remove it.

Two grounds to check. Lighting ground is on the front driver side fender near the headlight. Then the panel ground is in the driver side kick panel in the cab. You might also check your fuses (corroded fuses) which produce weak power for the circuit.

With all that rust I would assume it would self lock in a few weeks.

I'll most likely go to WalMart and get some Sony Explodes...

Man every time I see people attempting to retrofit T style in glad I've kept my Y steering which has worked perfect for years and nearly 400k miles.

When it comes time ill rebuild my vacuum system completely with air brake tubing. Never worry again. Even on my 1996 gasser I will build it as well with air brake line. A lot of the mistake is making sure to route away from heat and friction.

I had to grab mine with channel locks to pull the wiper arms off. Once removed I greased the inside of the spline part. Road salts corroded mine some.

I dug deep in my pockets and got the ARP 425 studs. I seems to always be on the border line of everything. At least I don't have to worry about head gasket.

I used oversized ring terminals and soldered the wires to the ring, no crimp.

1973 Dodge Charger SE. Yeah now you know why the Mopar1973Man comes from.

Right on. Welcome to Mopar1973Man family. Seem like the 2nd Gens are making their way across the ocean to other countries. There is several here from the EU area.

Might be worth it to just see the ECM in and have it tested and verified.

Lucky enough. Only have HVAC and exhaust brake for vacuum. Non-issue for use without an CAD axle.

Remote mount the fuel pressure sensor is best. This is the wrong way...

Funny ARP 425 stud end at 125 foot/pounds...

Actually it will get worse if you crank up timing excessive or in the winter time with a canned tune like Edge. This is because as IAT falls below 80°F it cranks up nearly 4° of timing advancement. Then add high cetane fuel will add to the problem in the winter. Typically gets better in the summer.

High and low beam both. It's controlled by a shutter, not a bulb.

What is your 1500 and 2000 set for? If your 2000 is set for 18 degrees then a plus 1 would be 19 or plus 2 would be 20. That is how you figure cruise timing.

You are the only one of the group that got to meet Betty...

Should hit about 19 to 20 degrees typically at 2k RPM while in cruise timing. Flat ground cruise set at 65 MPH set your cruise load limit maybe 1 to 2% higher than your current cruise engine load. Slight rattle is normal but it should drop out when you pass your load limit. Timing should retard.

Out my way 1st and 2nd Gens everyone wants.

Still in all having them prebuilt saves you the labor and frustration of making mistakes and starting over to fix the mistakes.

Grey RTV here for the rear diff.