Mopar1973Man

@Dynamic is on the far side of the US from you. He happens to our website transmission guru. He would be able to tell you what you need and might be able to sell you a rebuild kit for your transmission.

I'm pleased with the KYB's I've installed on my truck nice ride and handling quite well.

If you looking for flow amount most like the lower pop pressures. Now if you are looking for economy you need higher pop pressures. Low pop pressure will flow more fuel over time but the droplets are larger and tend to create more black smoke. Now high pop pressures create better atomization but does reduce the flow amount over time. Not to mention high pop pressure means slightly retarded timing as well.

Known issue with Edge Comp. Most people just send them into Edge Products and let them replace the buttons.

Did my suggestion work?

Move up here... We'll change that quick.

I gather its the ball stud end. You'll need to heat and the strike the part of body around the tapper to hopefully shock and knock it loose.

SCR, DEF, EGR and all the alphabet smog junk is a joke.

I'll be the next to head down this trail. I going to do the 320-325 bar range but most likely jump to 7 x 0.010 injectors. I'm going to use my OEM stock injector bodies and have them nozzled up and jump in the game.

Even Auto's require throttle in cold weather on the first start to fire up.

So now remember the oil pressure sensor and/or MAP sensor failure can drag them both down. Do you have any errors currently?

That 1k ohm resistance needs to go away.

All wires should be 0 ohms. A max of 5 ohms. Anything past 5 ohms calls for repair of that wire.

Just what @pepsi71ocean did was send in his +100 HP injectors and had them re-popped above stock and now cleaned up all his extra smoke and still starting good. I think there is a variable for altitude here that might change some of this.

Good question. I'm sure someone around here might know like @TFaoro might..

@pepsi71ocean only had 28k and he was below 280 bar. My first set of SAC 7 x 0.0085 injectors where under 280 bar within 7k miles. They do settle sometimes creating these issues. Like my current 7 x 0.008 VCO are somewhere around 80k miles and getting too low in the pop pressure.

All the old fuel system has to be removed. The pump in the tank and all the fuel lines which are too small. The FASS, AirDog or even the mechanical pumps upgrade all the plumbing to full 1/2" plumbing. You'll end up putting a draw straw in the tank. Running all brand new 1/2" fuel hose and fittings. I highly suggest you keep your factory fuel filter. Double filtering is a bonus.

Either air in the fuel or bad injector pop pressure (too low). If the injector pop pressure is too low the spray droplets get too big and the fuel doesn't ignite easily which creates a lopey idle typically. I would say it time to look at injector pop pressure and verify you have no air in the fuel.

All speed sensor wiring must be twisted pair. There have to be a particular number of twist per foot for shielding reasons.

That's because when you do shut down or even key off and back on while rolling resets the ABS module in flight. If there is an error or issue the key off and on again will cause the ABS module to reboot into the network again. Another thought is excessive AC noise can and will affect the reporting nature of the ABS modules speed sensors.

Master ground for the big 3 computers (PCM, ECM, and VP44) is the passenger side battery cable. As for W-T that would drop the AC noise for sure. As for the APPS sensor just monitor the value for sudden drops when it acts up or sudden 100%. Either way it will trip a P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes. The only other device that will dead pedal is the VP44. Again this needs the W-T ground mod for protection.

ABS module. PCM doesn't control speed data. The only thing PCM is doing is starting the CCD network. The PCM gets the CCD network going and ABS module calls out on the network its speed data. The PCM receives the data for transmission and cruise control. The ECM receives the data as well for controlling the grid heater cancel at 25 MPH. The gauge cluster receives the data as well for displaying speed.

You need to return the front sensor where they belong. Then you most likely need to send the ABS module in to be rebuilt. Basically, the ABS module is a frequency counter. It measures the pulses per second and displays the speed on the speedometer. There is an issue with the rear sensor for sure being you got the 2 front tied to the rear sensor which is most likely fouling the ABS module ability to count frequency. Module Master is $130 for the rebuild and has 5-year warranty. I've had my module rebuilt by them and excellent people.

Man, that is the way to go. Lowest voltage drop for the run to the starter.