Mopar1973Man

Dang. I'm delayed. I've got to do a second trip back down to Caldwell, ID on Friday to get the head.

Nope. Just install see if it shifts better.

Ask yourself the question would you wash the oil filter and reuse it? I sure wouldn't.

Check your plugs for heat damage. The last one I looked at the blower motor pigtail was lightly melted and contact were heat stressed. After the own replace it worked fine.

Output speed sensor is in the tailshaft area of the transmission. As for @Dynamic that's why I keep tagging him hopefully he responses or you could send private message to him.

I've got to public say "Thank You" to @dieselautopower and staff for pulling off the shipping in a timely manner so I had all the parts here for putting the head back on the truck. Gasket kit showed yesterday and the studs as well. Jacob and staff "Thank You" for the quick service and getting the parts here in a quick fashion.

I've got to public say "Thank You" to @dieselautopower and staff for pulling off the shipping in a timely manner so I had all the parts here for putting the head back on the truck. Gasket kit showed yesterday and the studs as well. Jacob and staff "Thank You" for the quick service and getting the parts here in a quick fashion. Now I just got to go get the head from Northwest Machine today and bring it home.

I say give it a try. You won't be sorry. The RPM difference is small but the economy and power difference is pretty moderate.

Can relocate the pump. That particular pump has a small discharge port designed to use a banjo bolt. He would need a normal Raptor first.

Nope, you did it right. The check gauges are because of the battery voltage dove under 12.00 volts. So this most likely means there is a problem possibly with the output speed sensor or transmission possibly. You might want to talk to @Dynamic about this issue he should be able to give you more clues.

I'm not sure now about the Bosch diodes. I've done a bit of searching but turning up very little information on the Bosch side.

Perosnally, I would get out of the stock sender. Install a draw straw of some sort. The stock in-tank pump is restrictive from the get-go. All the factory plumbing is too small measuring out at 6mm ID (.24 inch ID). Then pumps are not design to lift or suck fuel long distances. You'll need to get the other pump to relocate it on the frame back towards the tank. Then the DDRP pump directly plugs into the ECM so if anything electrically happens to the Raptor the ECM is going to fry. I've not had much to say positive about your setup I'm sorry...

Yes its still charging with 14 Volts DC but when the diodes give up it could be charging with AC voltage too on top of the 14V DC.

Bosch alternators are not easy to rebuild from what I understand you have to unsolder each diode one at a time and replace them. Where the Denso alternator is a package like what you see above.

He's got a DDRP pump. Those really can't be relocated because of the port in the pump are too small for normal 1/2" Parker push lock fittings. There is actually 2 series of pumps... Raptor as a remote mount and the Raptor DDRP (Dodge Direct Replacement Pump) which goes in the stock location. Ports are different.

I'm going to try to make an article about it. I'll get my camera out to the shop and shoot a few pictures but I'll base it mostly on the ARP documents supplied with the studs. Being I'm playing with high timing and boost pressures ranging in the 40-45 PSI realm I'm playing with fire if I don't do good head studs. I know @dieselautopower mentioned I could do cap stud at a bit lower price. Then he mention that they see guys making 500 HP on stock head bolts with no issues. Am I willing to Russian Roulette with the Cummins? Naw, I really don't want to do this job again thank you. Might as well invest in good stud and not have to worry about it for 300-400k miles again and know that the gasket will stay clamped down.

US Postal showed up for a package today. Like Christmas all over again...

There are oil ports into the bottom of each set of rockers. As far as I know, there is no oil port in the push rod at all. Never really looked but I'm pretty sure there isn't.

Northwest Machine just called... Bad news, is the price will be up there at the $1,000 mark for sure. Exhaust guides, exhaust valves, and all valve seals are shot. The problem is the exhaust guides start to get loose and the valve stems are moving around which tore up the exhaust seals for sure. Good news, typically the Cummins head is known for cracking but just in the visual inspection, the head is in good condition and past the pressure test with flying colors. Now to break open the piggy bank...

Edge Comp drove that as high as 20 to 22 degrees (highway speed). Then after warm up fell to 12.86 degrees (idle). Hence the IAT fooler this brought it back down to the normal stock realm.

Alternator is shot.

$71.45 http://www.fostertruck.com/diode-pack-rectifier-bridge-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html Vs. $54.50 https://mopar1973man.com/store/product/61-denso-alternator-rectifierdiodes/ Nations alternator is a full replacement alternator which will require the ground wire mod to basically omit the old charge lead and route to the passenger battery. Be aware it can be quite a bit more than even a remanufactured Denso.

Welcome to the family... Dave is right you might want to post up in the 3rd Gen area and let see if we can get some eyes on your problem.