Mopar1973Man

Yeah, I saw the same thing during the 46RE break-in period there was a small amount of debris in the bottom of the pan stuck to the magnet. You could epoxy the magnet to the bottom but that will make for a PITA to clean later.

@marked23 I've got to ask what kind of tape or wrap material are you using on the loom? I'm curious. It also looks really good like an older generation wire loom from the 70's.

Toss a donation to the site and the downloads area unlocks. I'm not sure how this going to work out between countries but if you have trouble let me know.

Might try look at both...

The problem is the tank is produced with two types of plastics the white inside skin than the black outer skin. I still have my doubt on plastic welding a fuel tank being I use to do the same kind of plastic welding back in the 90's for motorcycle bodywork. T actually get the plastic to melt and bond together good is rare at best and even back then we use to embed steel mesh to give strength knowing the plastic never melts completely. It would be a different story if the tank was steel or aluminum then you have a metal that could be welded together or modified easily and could go back and forth and repair it no problem. The plastic that is a problem there no silver bullet for welding the hole back up solid like it was OEM wise.

Which is true. I would just replace all wearable items and be done with it for sure.

Replace the entire fuel tank. That is the only answer. There is no way to repair the tank after drilling that massive hole in the bottom.

Just be aware if you happen to attempt sell the truck later on delete A/C will reduce the price considerable. Yeah I know of another guy just like you he took a perfectly good 1992 Dodge Cummins 1st Gen and hacked the A/C out and yanked out the cruise control. He didn't believe in either A/C or the cruise control. Needless to say, he was on hard times and needed to sell the truck and it really devalued the truck badly because all the compressor and lines where gone and cruise control gone. So just because of non-beliefs of A/C and cruise control he lost a lot on that truck. 236 HP dyno'ed 1st Gen.

The whole idea of the @W-T ground mod is to get the ground lead as short as possible and to ground as quickly as possible. Shorter the wire the less possible for AC noise issues and less voltage loss. Then you can back that you with a battery (NEG) cable to the same spot.

Welcome to the family. You'll find this is the friendliest forum you'll ever find. We don't bite! We might slobber on you looking at all the modification in your truck. As for overheating and coolant loss. First off I would start with a cold engine and get a coolant system test and pump up 14-16 PSI on the system and watch and see if the pressure falls. While its pumped up let it sit awhile and see if anything starts dripping on the floor of the shop. Quick story I could smell coolant on my 1996 Dodge and never see any leaks. Always adding quart of coolant here and there. One day I hooked up the pressure tester on a cold engine and left it for a few hours. 2 Hours later I find a small puddle on the floor. I followed the wet trail back to the source and found the intake manifold gasket failed. Basically got a gasket kit and replaced it and problem solved.

Ok 1995 12V is only a PCM there isn't any ECM on those trucks. OD is just a signal wire for ground. In other words OD is controlled by the PCM which switch on and off the ground wire. The 12V supply comes from the transmission relay which provides power to the solenoids in the pan.

I've installed my drawstraw back in 2006. It now 2018 with 350k miles on the clock. The AirDog 150 pump replaced once. Never had a straw issue as of yet. Just do it not hard at all. I dropped my fuel tank and replaced the fuel sender (gauge sender). I work smarter I bring the friend over get the beer flowing and get him to install the tank I dropped. Still in all I would rather drop the tank and replace the fuel lines and have them on top and away from freezing weather and have the straw at least in a modern fuel basket than drilling a huge hole in the bottom of the tank to find out later on the sump fail. The company that built the sump is gone and so is the replacement parts. I remember the days of the old Scotty II air filter for these trucks but long gone now. How about DiPricol Gauge that everyone loved... Gone with the wind never to be sold again.

Some state laws state that fuel can no be drawn from the bottom of a fuel tank. If sumps were legal concept then all modern diesel trucks would be outfitted with them. But they are not for a safety reason. Might check your local laws about bottom draw fuel tanks. Some that most people won't admit to publicly is the huge hassle it is to replace a fuel tank after a sump has failed. I've talked to many people this has happened to. I've had people calling me asking where to find a factory fuel tank replacements because of failed sumps. Yes they can be ripped off I've found a few here locally that thought the same thing ruined the fuel tank and the sump both. Back to that topic of replacing the fuel tank. An again difficult problem to resolve. Sumps do not guarantee a fix to an air leak problem. You can still have air leaks with a sump.

Your right. The VP44 had a fuel temp for the reason of tracking or limiting the fuel temp from causing electronics damage. All the older mechanical pumps don't have electronics so there is no need for fuel temp measurements. Even the CP3 pumps don't have any electronics and don't require any fuel temperature measurement like the VP44.

Geez... that's easy to fix. I just got done working on a 3rd Gen A/C just minutes ago. I can fix that A/C easy. Even if I got to do a HVAC case I could pull it out and rebuild the entire system in one day. My bad I saw the 305 but didn't pay attention to the 50 series. Still that is a lot of face on the ground still going to be heavier with more steel belt in the face. Ratio will be closer 3.52 from what I can math out. Not bad but awfully wide still a rational mass issue. the 265/50 R20 will get you close to the 3.73 range.

Compressor delete and electric fans? That is not going to shave any weight off. All you need to do is buy a different belt. Electric fans is going to produce overheating issues being there is no electric fan capable of keeping up with daily driver heat. The tires are not going to help at all your adding more weight in tires and wheels especially with Nitto's. They are heavy tire. Then on top of that you going to push the final ratio way up near 3.00 to 1 which wil be too tall and you end up spending $4,000 get 4.10 gear put in the axles. If you plan on bigger tires you need high gear ratio. Funny part... I currently can whip a 4th Gen Ram jacked up on 35-inch tires now because when you factor most of them bought the 3.42 ratio and then put bigger tires on top of that again drove the final ratio in the 3.00 realm and I can out power then so easy on the streets. With 245's I've got a final ratio near 3.73 (3.69 actually) to the ground so I've got way more power to the ground and easy to whip these jacked up 4th gen owners.

Are you attempting to make a quarter mile track truck?

I'm not a fan of sumps at all and some place are consider possibly illegal. I've been running a draw straw for years now and never had an air leak. I installed that straw back in 2006 its 2018 now but I'm running a full AirDog not a Raptor in the stock placement which is a poor pump in the first place and does not replace any of the small lines or quick disconnects.

Keep what you got it in good condition. It's tough to work on someone else's nightmare and attempt to get to the good level of repair like your at right now.

Actually its the fuel being the temperature sensor is in the tone ring pickup buried in the core of the fuel inside the pump. Again the black object there on the far right is the tone ring pickup that has the fuel temperature sensor. Assembled. Looking into the pump.

I use my ISSPro gauge being the Quadzilla is inaccurate and Stock MAP sensor is not accurate past about 20 PSI then it skews. 55 MPH = 2 PSI 65 MPH = 4 PSI Typically speaking.

typically at 80 MPH, it's about 5 PSI with my HX35/40 (60/60/12) turbo. Dropped the 235's (31-inch) and went to 245's (30-inch) tires which change my final ratio to 3.69 to 1. Reduced the engine load keeping cruise timing longer. Typically my normal cruise speeds range from 45 MPH to 65 MPH. Very rare do I ever see an interstate and travel 80 MPH I might set for 70 MPH. It looks like a little gauge icon on the far right. Thre is like 4 or 5 of them you'll have to fish that out.

Spread the word we are all willing to help out. I'm sure a lot of the US vendors would be willing to ship over seas. As for Dodge Dealers, most of us don't ever go to a Dodge dealer because of extreme prices. I'm glad my bulk emails panned out and got you to finally become vocal in the group. I guess my persistence paid off in the long run.

Sad but true you need a DRBIII tool from the dealer and it programmed through the OBDII port so no it can't be programmed separated from the truck

Thank you, Sir. Quite wonderful to see the website reaching beyond the US borders to other foreign lands like Germany and now England.