Mopar1973Man

Another one that works really well is the NAPA Green strip belt.

@Quadzilla Power that's the kind of work I love doing right there. I'd love to come down to Utah and hang around the shop for about a week. Kind of like me doing a R12 to R134a conversion on this beauty... 1992 Dodge 250 5.9L Cummins...

Now you can buy it off a Cummins Redneck...

Well all I can say is call him up and have him jump in the forum pile and tell his side of the tale.

Basically, they all seem the same on the inside of the can steel mesh filter and a spring. OE filter has been changed out long ago. The bottom of the can starts to rust over time. When I dump it out and find rust that I typically just replace the water separator filter.

OMG... 7.3L Ford are killer engines to play with. Once you get that turbo straighten out and a tuner dropped on with some fresh injectors I'm sure that thing could haul the mail down the track.

Call Jon @Dynamic he'll be more than happy to help you out. He builds kits so you can do the transmission work yourself.

Ummm... Running a Donaldson filter and water separator right now. Order a batch of 3 filters and 1 W/S from DAP. https://www.dieselautopower.com/water-separator-donaldson-20-mic-3-4-16-thread

Then I would take... At least you know it was well-taken care off...

Basically, 6 hour drive for me, camp out for 2 nights and 6 hours back home. 1996 Dodge 1500 - 46RE

Not worried still got my stock filter in places for catching water. To this day I rarely ever fine water in either filter so the whole worry of water separation is not even an issue. After 60k miles I might have a teaspoon worth of water in both the stock can and the AirDog filter. Nothing to worry about. Now as for filtration. I've got 3um on the AirDog ar a Donaldson filter, Then I've got the stock can with a filter 10um as well. The thing is I change filters every 60k miles roughly. I started cutting filters open and checking the media and found that 15k filter changes are a waste. Then even the second filter in the stock can was catching stuff the 3um was passing. 15k filter... Still brand new. After 60k miles.

Me... I've designed around my driving and local highways. I've got my truck built for good quick power for passing semi-trucks on a two-lane highway with short passing areas. Then keeping the power limit down to keep the MPG numbers up. Then to top it off keeping the longevity of the truck high. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

I typically pull the storage fuse clips in the cab fuse box to prevent battery drain. Once a week plug in the battery charger for about an hour 2 Amp charge. This way you don't have to pull the batteries and battery drain shouldn't happen.

Basically, you want to unhook the steering box return line. Now cap the pump nipple to keep fluid in the reservoir. Now route the return line to a waste container. Now jack up the front axle. Now with the ENGINE OFF, KEY OFF position to unlock the steering wheel. Now slowly go from lock to lock. The steering gearbox will pump the fluid out. Keep the reservoir full and keep doing this till the fluid runs cleanly on the return line. Typically I use close to 1 gallon to flush and refill the system. The steering gearbox by itself holds close to a quart of fluid. Turkey baster will not work at all.

As long as I keep changing my power steering fluid I hope that I don't have to do that job for a long time yet. 351k and rolling...

Never really seen it on mine. My truck is spoiled. Parked in a garage every night. Kept clean outside, inside and under the hood. Fluids and maintenance kept up. Don't get me wrong some things have plain worn out and failed but looking at the history of the part and how many 100's of thousands of miles I got from the part I'm not complaining one bit. No pavement princess here she get worked hard, hauling firewood, driving offroad, even working with USFS on wildland fires.

Be careful, you are taking about stud territory. I would look at getting a set of ARP studs really soon. Basically the rule of thumb every 1 pound of boost is 10 horsepower. If your asking for 500 HP to the wheels your asking for at least 50 PSI of boost. I'm playing a thin tightrope myself running 45 PSI of boost with my setup.

If you seen all the fire truck that we have that are diesel just stuff in a barely heated shed. They sit for long periods without being touched. Then they are fired up and driven hard to a fire. I seriously wouldn't bother doing anything special. Just park it. Then when you go to use it check all your fluids before starting.

AirDog 150 water separator and pre-filter.

My 7 x 0.0085 injectors smoke pretty good at 90% at 2,000 feet elevation. My performance tune starts at 90% and my daily starts at 80%.

Here I'll help... The test... Then if the alternator fails again replace it. Yes, new alternator fail out of the box. Then move on to the ground wire mod. Simple version.

It's the amount of metal graphite in the grease fouling the magnetic field and no longer capable of creating a good sinewave that the ABS computer can count frequency. This is why the whole greasing method tends to foul the ABS light.

Give me till tomorrow I'll explain in more detail about the secret on the Quadzilla and Mopar1973Man high idle and how to use them. They both can be used but there is a fine line where they must be separated. Mostly in the winter time and 3 CYL functions.

Just leave the Quadzilla high idle disabled. Everything will play nice together.

SOB! Now on top of the forest fire we now have fire bug on the loose. Called out to a grass fire last night in Pollock. Long ways from the road.