Mopar1973Man

Would be nice to have a URL to the page so others can buy it.

As far as I know the stereo controls are sent over the CCD network from the central timer to the stereo. So you might have to upgrade to the high line central timer for this all to work right.

I've got a NAPA aluminium swivel neck heater core. No issues and plenty hot with 160*F plus air coming out the vents.

Now its just a matter of having then pop tested and see what the performance is. I'm sure if you look around your local area there is injection shops capable of doing the bench testing.

Like Joe said above about dropping a injector tip. This is why I suggested a compression test to verify if there is any damage inside the cylinder(s).

I still hold to my same answer as on CF.com First and foremost don't drive that truck till it corrected. I would pop test the injectors. First thing. While the injectors where out I would compression test the engine. This just verifies there is no piston or cylinder damage. I'm pretty sure you'll find a damage injector. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/1858642-white-bluish-smoke-problems-help.html#post21409434 Welcome to the other side... We've got cookies!

I say springs before levelling kit. Levelling kit will require you to look at the front alignment and track bar adjustments and possibly start down the road of front modifications. Personally I like my levelling kit the best. Always level...

Your still going to lap the valves right?

Now that all 50 have sold come on gang those of you hanging around the site make sure you post a product review for others. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/store/product/41-mopar1973man-cummins-high-idle-switch/

Try leaving the switch off for the first 15 seconds then set your mode.

Quadzilla is a better tweakers tuner. Also has the same features like Edge Juice for the most part. Quadzilla give more tuning for CANBus and wire tap settings. More flexible tuning wise. Now as the for old series it had several weakness that Me78569 documented in my articles database. As for what is new in the DAP's I couldn't tell you. Still as far as I know the Quadzilla is the BIGGEST module out at 180 HP gains. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/452-quadzilla-tips-and-tricks-24v Edge Comp is plug n play. It has the exact same tunes as Edge Juice. Just no bells and whistles. Only 8 wires. 120 HP gains. Edge Juice is twice the cost of Edge Comp and lots of bells and whistles with a CS (color screen) or a CTS (color touch screen). Most people screw with the alarms and limits so bad the the Edge Juice users tend to product less power than Edge Comp owners. Still suppose to be 120 HP module.

Tempting is right. I'm quite happy with my little simple Edge Comp.

Maybe you should go to CF.com and teach some of those puppies how to do it. No kidding. See you understand the basics of getting the measurements correct. I've seen so many people even locally just bolt on stuff assuming it will work as is. Sad to say I've seen levelling kits make a huge mess of front suspensions. Grand example... I physically witnessed a shop locally put a 2" levelling kit on a Ford. To get the track bar back on the shop owner used a come-a-long to pull the axle over enough to pound the bolt through the hole and barely get it threaded. All I could do is shake my head. You can clearly see the axle was not lined up.

But that is half the battle only some folks understand what it take to properly re-engineer the front end. You can't just throw parts at it and expect it to work. There is measurements and and angles that have to be dealt with properly. Other than that you look like 90% of the people on CF.com whining about failed ball joints, track bars, ruined tires, and over all poor steering control.

FYI... We've now got a service manual for the ABS braking system for the 2nd Generation trucks. Thanks to Diesel Pl on CF.com http://forum.mopar1973man.com/files/file/92-2nd-gen-abs-braking-system/

YES. They can repair the Cummins ECM's. I was having a party in my mind when I heard that.

Again you can't expect a stock OE box to handle the leverage load of 44" tires. Just foolish. For something like this YES! You need to drop away from the Dodge Stock box and move up to something stronger. Now a Common Joe should not have to upgrade to Redhead or other gear boxes with a Pavement Queen truck and stockish sized tires. Once you start levelling, lifting, over-sizing tires all bets are off on a stock gear box. Then again there is a different between a Working Man's Rig and Weekend Warrior Rig. Two different applications with two different needs.

Thing is when some can show me a high priced parts it better be lasting longer than what I'm getting. Much Longer. Other than that the cost vs. gain is worthless. Or... You really screwed up the geometry of the truck and wasting good money trying to solve a geometry issue.

Wonderful news. (MoparMom and Module Master Staff) I had a nice little chat with the crew at Module Master in Moscow, ID. I did find out that Module Master does quite a bit. ABS modules, ECM of our Cummins, some of the Mopar modules are seal with the gelled sealant. Instrument clusters etc. So it worth the effort to give them a call and find out if they can fix your module. As for my ABS unit it will be repaired in 2 days for $130 buck and have the 5 year warranty. I will be using them as a module repair source from here on out. Very professional crew!

Geez.. You don't drive much. Typically in a year I cover 30-35k miles on average.

Like us we wanted a circle driveway but the septic tank are in the way now. Previously the original septic tank where in the driveway but 3.5 foot down. Now they off the edge of the driveway with risers and lids within 2 foot of the surface for digging up.

Basically in a nutshell failure rate of the front parts are based on what you modify and how much. Like folks with lift kits, levelling kits, oversized tires etc. Tend to have a higher failure rate. It all about how you change the geometry of the front axle and suspension and how that change impacts the various suspension and axle parts. Like myself I've lighten up my rotational mass went down 1 tire size (265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16) and one wheel size (16x7.5 to 16x7.0). That just about killed off every bit of the front end issues. Then use a calculated air pressure in the tires.

Some of us just don't have deep pockets for toyz like this.

Might be half your issues. If the wire tap is weak and not seeing a good 12V connection then your power will become weakened as well. I going to assume you use a scotch-loc connector for a wire tap too? Those are known for cutting through the wire and leaving barely any thing connected. Then with a bit of water or road salt the connection gets worse. As for cutting out you might want to verify your AC noise from the alternator. If its excessive it could create weird problems. Double check the master ground on the passenger side battery as well. The ground is the one attached to the battery tray.

Yea. That what you need to do. Much better than all these wild upgrades, changing boxes, braces, etc. Funny I remember the number of BB's. The last rebuild I've done was on a 1970 Ford F250 pickup. I reman'ed a friends gearbox and fixed his issues of hard steering and leaks. Goes to show this old style technology still works today just fine. What I like about out steering boxes is that they are adjustable and seal kits are cheap and plentiful. Now if you upgrade away from the OE box now you lose the bonuses.