Mopar1973Man

Because the timing is already over advanced in cold weather hence the excessive rattling. So if you retard the timing the rattling stopped and get a very quiet smooth running engine. Also timing just moves the torque curve forward in RPM. So too much advancement means the engine struggles to pull it self along in cold weather just after starting. So if you retard timing it brings the torque curve back down lower in RPM and allows the engine to build power much easier. Hence the gains...

Boost leaks Intake manifold gasket Grid heater gaskets MAP sensor o-ring IAT sensor o-ring Turbo elbow o-ring & clamp. Missing manifold bolt(s) Hole/cut in a boot Hole or crack in the intercooler Now you also got to look for drive pressure leaks too. Basically look for soot tracks along the exhaust manifold. Also look for cracks in the manifold. If you lose drive pressure you'll lose boost pressure. Also I typically pressurize the system and spray everything with soap solution and look for bubbles. Some times you can just hear the leak hissing away.

Today is the first snow seen from my windows. Night time low of 39*F and a day time high of 45*F. Winter is coming... YAH!

Cold start it typical to see some white smoke. Just means the cylinder temp is too low for complete combustion of the fuel. My questions are... Do you see this when completely warmed up? What is your temperature when fully warmed up? Is it above or below the 190*F mark?

That's why the the vehicle is grounded through the ground pin of the of the block heater cord. As long no positive side circuit came in contact with the hot side of the cord it would be pretty hard pressed to complete a 110 VAC circuit into the DC side. Kind of like my solar system here on the house there is a fine line between 110 VAC of the house and the 24VDC of the batteries and the only thing shared in the ground.

Back in 2006 when I bought my AirDog 150 the Drawstraw V was not even a option. Of course I took my time and installed it right and never had a single issue with the old school straw. I've been down to the empty mark a few times. I've drained my tank a few times and there is less than a quart of fuel left.

Yes a bed lift and installing a straw give the best results only if the tank is EMPTY. This way you see the tank at its smallest size. Then when you fill the tank the weight of the fuel will pull the tank bottom down and away from the straw. This is why I cut the straw tight to the bottom so as the fuel is running out the tank bottom rises to the tip of the straw getting more out. So this why I like dropping the tank and resting it on the edge of 2x4 lumber at the band points. You can work really easy and can clean up your drill shaving in the tank.

Like Me78569 said it just adjust the IAT sensor input to the ECM and the module just uses the same data as well to calculate fuel and timing needs.

I've got a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500. There is no error codes presently and rail pressure is a max of roughly 5,000 psi and at idle its start to surge dropping as low as 1,900 PSI on the rail. I know this is not enough rail pressure at all for normal operation. I've changed the FCA without any change in pressure or operation. Where to go next?

Cold start it actually retarding timing because on MPG mode there is no timing rattle. Where without MPG mode it sound like a mechanic with BFH trying to beat his way out.

Kind of like myself I just had a meeting with the owner of the 1995 Dodge here in the tyard. I went and meet him at his home in New Meadows. After liking over the work and test driving I've been given a free rein on this truck. His goals is to have a safe, functional work truck that is presentable to a customer. All my hard work has landed me into more work than I know what to do with. There is no issues with me picking out parts or my design ideas. So here I am jumping in the same basket like you guys. Working the web site, local jobs, and taking care of the home front...

Personally from my stand point I understand why police officers are trained to react quickly. In the same sense they have to remember where they are at and who they are dealing with. In this case to me (personal opinion) the training kicked in and the officers reacted as trained and returned fire from where the initial fire came from. Again if the officers where more relaxed then this might not of happened. Also is the same sense if they are too relaxed a criminal might get the jump on them. I've seen several younger officers that act very strange. Thinking everything is a bomb or a booby-trap. Like an example a kid left his jacket on the library return box outside the library. The officer took a stance of protection over a kid jacket. Really? But that what they are being taught...

I found a video long ago that a get hooked a pressure gauge to the heater hose and it would top out at 30-40 PSI of pump pressure. I can't seem to find the video now.

I now the block heater cord on my 2002 Dodge is shot and open current. As for my 96 Dodge the element in the block is open and no functional.

What happen that I was told of tonight. There was a vehicle accident vs. Bull. Now the bull was getting aggressive and attempting to get at working crews. So the deputies attempted to shot the bull to put it down since it had broken legs. The farmer went back to get his rifle to put the bull down. When the rancher pull the rifle out it case it discharged for some reason and the two deputies spun and shot the rancher. The wife came out to find out what the shooting was a about and the deputies jumped the wife not knowing who she was come running out the dark. I guess she had a heart attack on the spot when she found out her husband was shot. (Disclaimer: This is all here-say posted above past on to me by other locals.)

Does the meter have a low 2mV or 2V scale setting?

I agree its just crazy expensive and the leak part is what I don't like. What if you do blow a hose while travelling you not going to be able to carry all the needed coolant with you because it special. This why I run universal yellow coolant because I can use any coolant with the yellow without mix issues. Out here when there is a failure you might have to use what ever the passing rancher has in his garage. As for needing fancy coolants like the one above or HOAT? You don't I've gone 255k miles now on generic coolants last batch was nothing more than WalMart Super Tech Unverisal Coolant, Previous batch I ran Prestone which is the same as SuperTech unverisal yellow. First 100k I ran standard green coolant with no issues. As for distilled water its never been use at all on this truck. I've use creek water from my irrigation system and well water both and no scale build up. I can say I've seen scale build up on vehicles with distilled water too. Typically the owner over extended the coolant (ran it too long) and the pH turn corrosive and then the scale starts. The mineral/scale build up can come from dissolved metals in the cooling system. So distilled water will not promise that your system will be scale free.

Check this out... http://www.ktvb.com/story/news/local/2015/11/02/isp-investigating-officer-involved-shooting-in-adams-county/75036826/

Good article! Thanks Cowboy!

Kind of hard to see what the rubber part condition inside the master cylinder. You have to disassemble it to see. Same with the caliper seals impossible to see the seal inside the calipers. You have to disassemble the calipers to see if there is any debris behind the pistons. Seal kits are like $3 per wheel.

I missed it... I thought there was a decimal in there. Look again he's set to 500V AC scale that meter will not work. You need a meter that starts at 200 mV AC or at least 2V AC.

I've only seen one boost failure and it was a pure and simple torn diaphragm in the boost and had a huge vacuum leak and wouldn't idle properly. Very roughly and easy to stall. Hard pedal tells me possibly there is a vacuum issue to the booster. Now with the color of the fluid I've seen it local where someone added a petroleum product to the brake fluid and made a mess out of a 2012 Ram brake system. Fluid was pitch black and most of all the rubber parts were degrading. The owner got lucky and flushed the system and inspected all the seal replaced what was bad. Petroleum products in brake fluid degrades the rubber but also makes it swell and bind up creating a hard pedal. I've only seen one boost failure and it was a pure and simple torn diaphragm in the boost and had a huge vacuum leak and wouldn't idle properly. Very roughly and easy to stall. Hard pedal tells me possibly there is a vacuum issue to the booster. Now with the color of the fluid I've seen it local where someone added a petroleum product to the brake fluid and made a mess out of a 2012 Ram brake system. Fluid was pitch black and most of all the rubber parts were degrading. The owner got lucky and flushed the system and inspected all the seal replaced what was bad. Petroleum products in brake fluid degrades the rubber but also makes it swell and bind up creating a hard pedal. Like on my truck as the fluid ages the fluid turn more of amber color but not black.

Nevermind... I'll stick to my old way of doing things... Holy cow my pockets are not that deep...

Basically any rubber part that is in contact with the contaminated brake fluid should be inspected and repair if needed. I would rather inspect all the rubber and find out nothing is wrong. It would sure be a horrid experience being in an accident because you didn't take that last step of inspection. The black fluid has me very concerned. Booster is pretty simple device either it works or it don't.

I would flush the entire system out. Black fluid means it might be contaminated with petroleum product of some sort and its attacking the rubber. So This means disassembling the calipers and the wheel cylinder if drums. Replace all the rubber parts. Might have to replace the master as well.