IBMobile

You can replace the diodes at home. the diodes are sold in the store here. There may be another problem causing the diodes to go bad such as one of the batteries going bad or a bad cable/connection between batteries or ?. You need to have the charging system fully tested and do the W-T ground wire mod along with this modification shown below.

That squealing sound is most likely the pressure relief valve in the pump or a valve in the steering gear.

Me too! @JAG1 would still be picking bugs out of his teeth.

It took us about 10 days, not full time, but the last 3-4 days was was the hardest. JAG1 came through with his carpentry skills on patching a few holes; the removal of the skylight over the shower and the antenna mount along with some wood rot in front. Up and down an 8' ladder and moving it a few feet at a time for the removal, clean up, and then the installation was no fun. Next time I'm going to use a scaffold or moving lift; it would help in taking the AC unit of the roof. I had those MaxxAir covers over two of my vent and JAG1 still put his hand through the 17 year old plastic vent lids when we went to clean them. I replaced them all and already had, in the trailer, 3 new white MaxxAir covers to put on.

Have you tried "cock-a-doodle-do" or "Chick-fil-a".

Thanks for the feed back about this business. It is a shame that customers are put through this. It is hard enough to get professional customer care in face to face transactions; with transactions being done via internet, you're only a number on their screen where there can be a lack of integrity and caring. @pepsi71ocean will see this and update his article "List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Rebuilders" in the 24 Valve 2nd Generation >Engine >Electrical section. You can also visit this article and, in the comment section, link this thread.

It's looking good. Now just two more thing to do on the wiring under the hood.

Here you go, the secret handshake. Or, it should be, join the club, post. and go.

You don't need a crimper. I soldered all the cables into the lugs with a small butane torch and rosin core solder. You can use a propane torch on low. I didn't use a breaker. I did a fuse like @JAG1 has on his trucks. It costs a little more than a breaker. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Block-Insulating/dp/B000K2K7TW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Blue+Sea+Systems+ANL+Fuse+Block+with+Insulating+Cover+-+35-300A+(5005)&qid=1598808156&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr https://www.amazon.com/NEP-ANL-Fuse-3-Pack-150/dp/B077RF3FWJ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=NEP+ANL+fuse+3+pack+(150+amp)&qid=1598808320&s=automotive&sr=1-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUFVODBGTkFVRjdBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEyWUFRUFJCOEhZUUFNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MTYyODUxSk1PTVc1OUNDTDQ0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Amazon 150 amp circuit breaker https://www.amazon.com/STETION-Circuit-Trolling-12V-48VDC-Waterproof/dp/B07TBF1GVK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3ICPSG3HB92FB&dchild=1&keywords=circuit+breaker+automotive&qid=1598790776&s=automotive&sprefix=circuit%2Caps%2C193&sr=1-10 The cable is a #6 AGW 1 #6-5/16" lug 1 #6-1/4" lug If you add the above circuit breaker you'll need 2 more #6-1/4" lugs.

Install this then turn on/off grid heaters as needed.

Hold down 89in-lb High pressure fuel line fittings at injectors 28ft-lb High pressure fuel line fitting at pump 18ft-lb

Yes, there are two connectors above the fuel filter housing at the firewall. The db/bk wire is in the one with 11 wires in it at pin #4. You need to disconnect the wire harness at C125 then do the ohm testing. This will isolate just the wire in the engine harness and you can see if this is the one shorted to ground. To test the wire from C125 to terminal #87: with C125 still disconnected remove AC relay from PDC, find terminal #87 position and with one probe from the ohm meter touching the terminal and the other touching ground the reading should be L or infinity depending on the meter. Now do the same with the C125 connector still separated at the wire unplugged from the AC compressor and ground. The ohm reading should be the same as above. If in either test the ohm reading is near or at 0 then there is a short in that wire.

Some say yes others say no. For the cost of the cable and the little time it takes to do it, why not do what the man who found the solution did and do it all.

Disconnect wire in cab from fuse in cab. Remove wire from cab. Attach wire, that you have removed from cab, to the yellow and white wire on the old LP pigtail. You're done; go have a drink.

Nothing, not a thing, goes back where the alternator cable came off the PDC. Think of the power flow like this: old way... power from alternator, through cable, to 140amp fuss in PDC. new way... power from alternator, through cable and 150amp fuse or circuit breaker to right battery, then through cable over top of radiator, to left battery, last to PDC through smaller red cable from left battery.

Yes, that's what is done to address the 12-14 volt charge wire running next to the other ⩾ 5 volt wires. No, not from the alternator. You could just disconnect it form the PDC and alternator and leave it in the wire harness but you can be cheap and reuse the wire to connect the right battery to the alternator. Also, taking it out cleans things up and if anyone else has to do electrical diagnostics they are not saying" What's this wire for?".

So is this 36 years "It's suppose to run like that" of quality control? Good call!

There maybe a direct short to ground in the dark blue/black wire from connector C125 to the AC compressor. Unplug the wire at the compressor and the c125 connector, located next to the vacuum T fittings at the fire wall, and ohm test it. If the reading is 0 or close to it there is a short to ground in that wire. If that's the case then you will have to find where it is and repair it or cut the wire about 3" from the engine side of the C125 connector and run a new 18 AGW to the connector at the AC compressor. If ohm reading is L or 1000 then ohm test the wire between C125 and pin 87 of the relay plug. .

Was it the fuse in the PDC, 10amp, at the J position or the #11 fuse, also 10 amp, in the junction block (left side of dash)?

You need to have your mechanic friend remove the add a fuse and wire from the relay at fuse #9 in the cab; then connect it to the yellow/white wire that was used to power the other fuel pumps you had on the truck. This will put the fuel pump control back to the ECM.

My right rear tire, 7/29/20, Michelin LTX A/T2, 245/75-16, Date code 4412, thread depth was 5/32", air temp 108° F, road speed 60 MPH, towing 2050LB flatbed trailer. The tire were bought in 2012 at Costco and truck is used mostly to tow my 5th wheel. Replaced with same Michelin tires. Set of 4 $905. Damage to truck ? I'm still going through the process to find out. I taught all my kids how to drive a stick; their first cars were 5 speeds on the floor.

You can splice into the tan wire (1) behind the light rheostat for unfused power to gauge lights or any orange wire (2) for fused protection. Those wires are 18 and 22 gauge.

Try positive wire to tan wire at headlight switch.

The Timbo APPS is sold here in the store.