IBMobile

My axle ratio is 4:10 (4.1 turns of the drive shaft to 1 turn of the axle) and my tire size is 245/75R-16 giving me a final ratio of 4:22 which translates into a little higher RPM at cruising speed and a lot of pulling power.

I'm using the Edge EZ with the jumper set on #2 and RV275 injectors with zero smoke problems. I tow an 8,000lb 5th wheel and I don't want to overwhelm the almost stock 47RE transmission with more power.

@rotorhead here you go. It's on page 4 of this long thread.

Cut out the bad section with a mini tube cutter and splice in new tubbing with compression fittings. You can find new brake line repair kits at any auto parts house. Home Depot sells the tube cutter in the plumbing department.

Sorry to hear about the loss of a friend.

The Bosch or mini type relay is common and can be purchased in any auto parts store. Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor. This is a mini relay with suppressing resistor and mounting tab "Common in" refers to pin #30 where in this case the 12 volt power from the battery comes into the relay.

If Eric at Vulcan doesn't have a wire harness with relay this article might help.

What goes around comes around. This forum is Mike's platform for helping use as a repository of information and a place where we can have our questions answered. Let's help pay it back with a little extra in this months donation. I'm sending the money I saved from not eating chicken nuggets.

Yes...You do

Oil through the push rods are with hydraulic lifters like in GM engines. Below shows the oil flow in the Cummins 5.9L from the FSM.

That's why my run around car is a 95 Volvo wagon. Cheap to keep.

I don't think that's suppose to be there. That may be a hole in an oil galley. It's under higher pressure when the engine is running than the coolant pressure so it pumped the cooling system full of oil. Clean the area real good and see what you have to work with. If you have enough material to work with you could drill and tap and seal with a small NPT plug.

My 5th wheel is a 24.5 foot inside, 27.5 foot king pin to back bumper, with one small slide. On cold mornings I'll have condensation in the sleeping area but none down below. The trailer has two 15 amp outlet circuits that can be used. We plug one ceramic heater into each circuit and run them on the low (750 watt) setting. At night with an out side temp of 28°F, using just one heater in the main sitting area on low power, the inside temp is 55°F One time we were dry camping and a winter storm came through and that night the heater stopped working. When we got up the next morning there was ice on the inside of the windows where the condensation froze, it was 17°F outside. It was warmer in the refrigerator.

My truck was bought and has stayed in San Diego County, except for trips. The grid heaters come on during the cold mornings here and it also has a block heater which I've never used.

Glad to hear you had a great time. Were you able to see Lake Louise or Moraine?

You're going to have to do some simple diagnostics. Do you have battery voltage at the blower motor and ground continuity when the problem occurs? If the fuse, relay, fan motor and resistor are good then there's an open circuit in the dash switch or ground.

Red, Black, it really doesn't matter. May be they ran out of reds and put in the blacks. The material they're made from isn't important so long as the bessel doesn't rattle or squeak. I get extra pads when I'm in the Pick A Part yards. If you can't troll the junk yards, a gun cleaning patch or even a cut up old cotton T shirt would work.

@dripley are you staying in your 5th wheel and if so where do you have it parked? I hope you can put it next to a building for some wind protection if you can figure out what way the wind will blow.

We've seen in past years other members, like @The_Hammer, take a hit to their property during a hurricane but be all right. @dripleyis hunkered down in his trailer at Columbia, SC. Hope his feathers stay dry. So let's give thought and prayers for protection and safety to those about to endure the fury of hurricane Florence.

Go buy a lottery ticket because you got lucky. If you snapped the fitting taking it off I thought for sure that was seized in the case.

My "back up" fuel pump is a cheap Airtex. I have the fuse for it pulled but the relay is still connected to the ECM so no fuel pump code is stored.

First, did he check the first alternator for AC noise? Next, did he check the second alternator for AC noise? Has he done the W-T ground modification? Is there a 'Mystery switch ' installed ? Before the PCM is condemned the following should be checked: Fuse #1 Transmission control relay (in the PDC) Torque convertor clutch solenoid Wires and connectors from the PDC to the transmission Wires and connectors from the transmission to the PCM

Get a Fuel Boss.

What's every thing? Check for straight, hot tank, resurface, valve job and guides. Can you get by with just check for straight and if not straight just the resurface?

No, That's a pressure line that comes from the l/u switch valve. Use a magnet and brake cleaner spray with a straw to flush any thing out. Any metal misses will go through the cooler and into the pan to be caught by the magnet in the pan or the filter.