Mopar1973Man

Here is both parts for ya.

No need to as release the throttle the VP44 shuts down and quits pumping all together so there is no need for neutral and all that. As long as the rolling RPM's are above idle RPM's then the injection pump shuts down. This is why 55 MPH speed limit for me works out so good because I get more coast time downhill slopes... As for the video... No I wasn't but the trailer has no really effect I just jake longer that all. Still don't use my brakes down any grades...

Nice job... :thumb1:Always nice to dress up the ol' Beast again!

Here is my 2 vids to show brake usage... Very rarely do I touch the brake pedal the exhaust brake does nearly 90% of all my stopping.

Sounds like a weight valve. As more weight is place in the bed of the truck more brake pressure is a applied to the rear axle. It also might be part of RWAL (Rear Wheel Anti Lock) if it got wires hook to it.Steel brake lines enter the bottom of the wheel cylinders just above that should be a bleeder screw.As for the rubber hose that might be routed along the frameand dead end with a plastic cap. That's the differential vent.

Ok... Learning experience... I'm sure you won't do that twice...1. I would remove and clean the reservoir so you can see the fluid inside.2. I would reload and rebleed the system and now start looking for any leaks.

Doing the same thing... I've got a set of Cooper STT's for the winter driving if needed.

Not hard... [*]Drain coolant. [*]Unhook all hoses and cooler lines. [*]remove coolant bottle and the windshiled bottle. [*]Remove the few screws and the clips holding the fan shroud. [*]Move fan shroud towards the engine and leave. [*]Unbolt the 2 bolts on the radiator. [*]Lift radiator out carefully.

Thank you for the look up...

Oh My Gawd... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVdMySWfAIQ

Might try sending him a PM maybe he'll know more on it...

Well gang I figure I do a simple little show and tell of the 24V injectors for ya... Here is a stock 24V injector (235 HP) Now lets break it down into pieces... (Body, spring shim. spring, pintle seat, mid-body, pintle, nozzle, collar nut, and the copper shim) Ok some people don't understand how small the nozzle holes are... Here is a 10x Mag of the nozzle tip. With and Without pintle in the nozzle take notice to the upper hole that is the fuel hole. This hole routes the fuel down tip so it can push the pintle back against the spring when the pressure over comes the pop pressure of the spring. Here is the pintle needle... So there you go a 24V injector opened up so other can understand what is there...

Error codes would be a good thing to get...

Check the label on the back for CJ-4 or CI-4 (plus)...If its starts with "S" its gasser oil. (Spark)

Coming down the home stretch to 200K miles... (191K currently)

About the same here... With all the dirt roads and towing time it tends to eat up tires rapidly. It not like I go out roasting tires for smoke shows but like AH64ID points out torque and dirt are just hard on tires.

Tire rotation sohuld be done every oil change... (7-10K miles) As for wear issues most of the guys are right you might look into worn front end parts. As for the brake pulling its time to rebuild you calipers... Really cheap to get a seal kit and do... I did all 4 calipers (seal kit) and all brand new brake pads for $130 bucks...

Actually if the heater core is working it would have one hose slightly cooler than the other because of heat exchange... Just like the radiator the upper hose is always hotter than the lower. But when the heater core gets plugged up then both hose are hot because there is no exchange of heat...

Sounds like a Edge Juice issue...

I see about 140-150*F from my vents so I would imagine your heater core is plugged up with debris. You might try flushing the heater core out...

My post above is for climbing 7% gades with 16,080# GCW (~8,000# of trailer).

I went with the cheapest one I could fine... I don't normally use my brakes much. Exhaust brake is my primary stopping force.

Even my truck hauling trailers and firewood 193* to 197*F is normal run range... Climbing grades you might see 206* to 208*F

Build a heat shield. Use a nuts below the plate and nuts above the plate and adjust them so the top nut are just flush...

Results are in... I tried using a rheostat and the lower values are easy to hit but the upper value kept doing werid things so I went to resistors and stuffing different resistors into the plug. Tidbit though... I found out the lower the coolant temp the highier the idle is. At 0*F the idle is like 1,100 RPM on its own...:stuned:Lower mark is 165*F...Just for fun to show 207*F...Upper limit is going to be 220*F