Mopar1973Man

Column bearing are wearing out. (Guess). There is a repair kit for this but I just can't think of the name right now. :banghead:

You be careful... If it was me I would of packed the RV and left...

It's true there is lot of people with heavy boots... Play awhile on lower levels and learn to drive like a normal human...Then you can keep increasing levels till you find a level that works for ya... I'll admit it nice to run 5x5 on the Edge because the power is there if I need it but the rest of the time cruise control takes over.

JL... I've learned how to drive with my Edge Comp cranked up... I leave it maxed out at 120 HP and can control my smoke with my foot. Just like ISX he's got no plate ot AFC control on his Ppump and he controls it solely with his foot.

Personally from all the people I talk to they see better MPG perofrmance on the highest setting, but since your all stock you got to build up all your weak links first before going that direction...

Sorry that has nothing to do with the lift pump... That controls the VP44 power supply... As for the lift pump the ECM is in direct control of the lift pump... So your ECM is fried... (Sorry!)

I hate to say it you got to drop the trans and bellhousing to see the condition of the flywheel and plate...

Take notice we don't use that feature here at all... (Captcha)...Just got to answer a simple question.I might have 2 spammers a year at the most now...

Vista isn't the cause... :nono:Windows Vista x64 (SP2) - Internet Explorer 9.0 - Works here...

Lots of interesting ideas...

How much wood are you packing?

That what the toggle switch is for to turn them off... So you can still select the fog lamps or leave them off...

It's not a search its tag cloud... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php So everytime some tags a thread its added to the cloud on popular phrases...

Sorry I missed this thread... :doh:But if your pulling vaccum on one side the other side must vent to allow movement. Other than that you'll have vacuum on both side and no movement.

No I do not use any of the stock stuff... Everything is seperate from stock. Trailer relay is the trigger to turn on. (Trailer relay has to remain because I do tow trailers!) Fog lamp relat is the trigger for hi/lo beams. (No fog lamp relay present) [*]The fog lamps follow the setting that the main headlights are on. So if you select high beams the fog lamps will follow and go to high beam mode. If you select low beams the fog lamps will follow by going to low beam mode. You never have to worry about blinding some one with this system. [*]If you go from headlight to parking lamps the fog lamps are forced to low beam mode regardless of the pervious head light mode. But if you use the dimmer switch to wink the high beam the fog lamps will follow. But will return to low beam mode when released. [*]When the headlights are turned off the fog lamps are forced off as well. You don't have to worry about shutting down a second switch. My kit also includes a bypass shutdown switch too. This allows you to run only your stock headlights without the fog lamps. [*]The kit requires tapping a few signal wires. But the lights are completely supplied by there own fuse from the battery. This will not put any extra load on you headlight circuit. The kit requires a signal from the trailer relay and a signal from the fog lamp relay. That's it!

Mine does all that...

Gotta Covered... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/fog-lights/fog-lights.htm

The reason why the dealer was tell you to put a intank pump in is because the fact no pump is designed to suck fuel any length of distance. So most of use have move the lift pump back close to the fuel tank reducing the suction required (lift).But I would look into pump relocation kit (Vulcan Performance) and move the FASS back by the fuel tank with all 1/2" lines...

Calculated flow rate of 1/2" ID pipe 15 foot long at 15 PSI should be capable of over 500 GPH. But the stock tubing is actually 6mm ID which is only good for about 75 GPH at 15 PSI... This is all calculated numbers... Real world flow rates with elobws and such are tyically lower...

But pull the filter out briefly and look at the center tube notice the holes are at the top. So technically there is no where for the fuel to go...

I've got thing about USFS... :nono:After going through the Poe Cabin fire here in Idaho I will never believe anyone that tells me fire is a good thing... Bulls__t!!! The only thing fire done was line everyone pockets with lots of money.. Huge loss of forest though... I'm still cutting burnt trees for firewood...

I guess not... Sad to see people getting hurt but that is plum wild to see 100 pound chunk of steel flying...

The center tube might be damaged or the water drain is leaking... :shrug:Because at least on my truck the plastic center tube has the outlet hole at the top and should hold fuel without draining out. So if the water drain is leaking then it will keep draining out on you adding air to the system creating a hard start...

Well this might help by going back to the main forum page scroll down and check the tag cloud for A/C or Air Conditioning. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=air+conditioning http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=a%2Fc Hopefully those help out... Tag cloud is very helpful!

Try placing the trans in Neutral for a short span give it a bit of rev and then select a gear. If this improve the shift issue then its a bleed back issue on the torque converter. I know on the Dodge Rams they have a check valve. But for Jeep I'm not sure. Might wonder over to www.ramforum.com and ask these boys they might have a tidbit more information on it. Worth trying...