Mopar1973Man

No difference between synthetic to petroluem based oil in performance. But I've found that most all syntheitc oil don't have a PPD (pour point depressant) which petroluem base oils do have which is a bonus because it does aid the pour point of winter time fuels where synthetics don't. As for american based 2 cycle oils most all oils now are ashless in design so there is no worry with ash deposits.

Trust me... I was asking if he wanted the torch to hea them up again... He was ready to whip my arse...

If you checked the oil cooler and its good then yes its a head gasket...

Well today I finally finished this project. Month later... But I got James back down here and we figured out a whole new game plan and managed to get them pressed out without even using heat. Still used the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press but when you get some pressure laid to it take your shop sledge hammer and smack the knuckle with a good hit. I didn't hit the tool or the joint just the side of the knuckle ears and BAM! It would jump. Start wrenching down and it continues to press out like it should. I've taken a short test drive and it seems a bit tighter for steering but good. So more to come later...

Just like the title said... I finally changed out my factory brake pads for the first time in 9 years and 187K miles. Now I hooked up with Relentless's Dad in New Meadows, ID and had him turn the rotors for me which he did a awesome job on. I had ordered all my parts from RockAuto.com and got front and rear axle brake pads, full seal kit for front and rear calipers and got new slide pin boots for a total of $103.49 with shipping. Old front pads Old Rear Pads

At least he's a thinkin'

What's nice about it is the upper tubing is not just welded to the top of the main bumper it actually passes through the main tube and is welded at both end giving some serious strength. Boy has the skills to weld that is for sure.

Meet you on the reverse side. 1 US gallons converts to 3.78 Liters but check currency for you... Like here in Idaho it $4.079 for diesel currently so its roughly 11 (PLN) per US gallon. So divide by 3.78 to get liter price 2.91 (PLN)... So here in Idaho isn't much better. :banghead: http://coinmill.com/PLN_USD.html#USD=4

Your quicker than I was about pics... :banghead:

Well let me get my truck rolling again and I'll retest my data... Dragging brake pads do wonders on EGT's...

Well another way to look at it... #1 Diesel is use for winter applications where the pour point need to be modified to keep from gelling up from winter cold but most people complaint of the poor power and poor MPG. This fuel is usually very low in BTU content. #2 Diesel is typical what the world runs on and ranges here in the states between 40-45 cetane and has a about 130K BTU's gives good power and MPG's. #4 Diesel is typically use for very large diesel engine like on cruise ship and such. This fuel has a much highier BTU content but a much lower cetane number. Also the engines usually have a Max RPM of about 100-500 RPM's. So in this case the engine is traveling slow enough to take on a very slow burning fuel and get the most power out of it. Total engine weight: 2300 tons Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm

Most likely the tensioner is the cause... You might see more wear damage to the tensioner after its removed from the truck. I pulled one off a Ford Powerstroke and you could see it with the belt on, but now take the belt off it was fine. After removing you could see the shoulders of the tensioner where wore out and causing it to rock over. But I think the Non A/C route puts less belt face on the tensioner... (Gotta look at the label on my truck)...

Good question... I'm curious of that too...

BTU - British Thermal Unit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Btu As for the way it works... Now if you look on the side (right) of the table its labeled viscosity cSt (Centistokes) this is how thick the fuel is at 100*F. Now yes 2 cycle oil is at about 80 cSt @ 100*F roughly depending on brand. But when mixing with diesel fuel it might rise a bit but I do think a whole like maybe like 1-2 cSt tops really. Our truck are 35 US gallon (134 Liters - I think) so at 128:1 ratio its like 4480 ounce of fuel with 35 ounces of oil. Pretty thin really when you see that. This part is from what I learn from people trying to run waste engine oil at high levels say 25-50%. But now some people want to use highier ratios than 128:1 well what happens is 2 fold... First as you increase over the 100:1 ratio the oil slows down the burn process so much that it become inefficient as a fuel. Then the second part as the fuel thickens it become more diffcult from the injection pump to push the thicken fuel causing stress to the injection pump. Down the pipe from there the thicken fuel will not spray properly out of the injectors so it will tend to squirt which now causing poor ignition quality and cylinder wear issues.

Everyone is welcome to the site. But we are all just a big happy diesel family. So bring your questions and we'll do our best to answer them. On a personal note... I've got a bit of Polish blood in me from my Mom's side of the family... But once again welcome to the site all are welcome... Doesn't matter what you drive or where your from.

Welcome to the site... The quietness from 2 cycle oil is from a simple thing. All oils are cetane reducers but there is a plus. Every time you reduce the cetane you increase the BTU content. But with lower cetane the fuel burns slower and longer with more energy. High cetane additive tend to burn explosive and short with less BTU's. So don't get too carried away getting lower in cetane, the fuel will never burn completely and energy is wasted.

Add a summer time EGT for yeah... EGT: ~600-650*FSpeed: 55 MPHAmbient Temp: 104*FWeather Conditions: Hot, 15% RHYear: 2002Model: 2500Trans: NV4500Driveline: 4WDWinterfront: No (IAT Temp 128*F @ 195*F coolant)RPM: ~1600Boost: ~2 PSI Note: Yes. I'm using the actual IAT sensor and not the MPG fooler.

No... Turbo has zero bearing on the grey haze at idle being the turbo making 0 boost at idle... But timing would have a bigger effect on haze than anything else... Oh yeah the other thing is weak lift pump ressure. Like Relentless just changed his lift pump and huge difference in performance. 6-7 PSI is normal.

Little better pic...

Summary needed... That is a huge thread I'll have to get back to it...

+1 Pictures needed!

Glad your safe... The truck can be fixed... But I'm sure you'll block the tires next time... I had a simular thing happen in my yard with the TT. I thought the yard was level enough not to block the wheel of the trailer. So I unhitched and had it sitting on the jack block as usual bu the ground being soft it rolled just enough to drop the hitch on the ground and stop (about 2 feet). So now any time I working with a trailer I block both wheels.

Here you go I got more information on it... http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/Voma/Solid-Trac/15374

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/41373/10002/-1 Found it... Yes... I've got a low pressure light get my attention that something is wrong...

I need to run back and place a link to this...