Mopar1973Man

Right now I wishing for wind. The smoke from the Cambridge, ID fire is sooo bad its blocking out the sun or any light at times. Just depends where the the main plume is and what it was burning. Air Quality up here is HAZARDOUS & DANGEROUS at time.

Not by much... Your HX35W is a 54/60/12 My HX35/40 hybrid is just changing the compressor to 60mm. that's it. I'm producing only 30 PSI. No smoke by 10 PSI. Up that closer to 200k to 250k miles. I've got 420k now. Again the biggest thing is lack of timing and the huge drop in MPG. More or less wore that box out from every day driving 900 to 1,100 miles a week for the last 4 years. I'm sending the module back for them to study what happened to it. Since I'm on the beta test team and have been for years.

Still very drivable. No EGT issues. It only topped out at 1,100*F on a grade. Smoke well it would blow a cloud but quickly clear up. The bad side was the MPG fell out like a rock without the Quadzilla. I made a trip to Boise yesterday and filled the truck in Payette, ID and the entire 240 mile trip used a half of tank of fuel. This is super low for me I'm used to 300 to 320 miles to half tank.

Error codes? Did you get a Timbo's APPS? What does a live data tool show for signal? As for grounds do the W-T Ground wire mod.

I can tell you that my trip to Boise ID yesterday sucked... Just running on the stock ECM and no boost fooler wasn't too bad. Spooled quick, it did build a good small cloud but nothing out of hand and cleaned up fast. Hit 20 PSI and from there up its a bit slower to build speed. No EGT's issues even WOT on 7% grade still below 1,200*F just standing on it. Then biggest negative, the MPG dropped hard core. Typically I see 300 to 320 miles at the half mark. Now I'm barely 240 miles at a half tank. Ugh... So I'm using @Wet Vette Hyundai to get around now. I'm just totally waiting on the box to come with the replacement... @Quadzilla Power

Still fighting to make it work right again errors popping up.

I don't suggest it. 85W-140 can be too thick for the axle and seen cases where the gear lube was so slow to fill the bearings that cause bearing failure twice for guy down in Texas with 110*F temp. We tested the thought it took over 1 hour for the oil to start dripping out the tube after being slightly lifted on one side. He was told do not pack the bearings with grease. I told him to pack the bearings on both axles so the bearings are lubed till that thick gear lube makes it to the ends. It takes time to get the gear lube up to temps and flow to the bearings... He was using a synthetic no less as well just super thick... Even after I change the gear lube I go out for drive to a big turn out by my place and do figure eights to push oil into tubes down to the bearing and re-check the level. Typically on limited slip axles you can add a bit more because of it thick natural and resistance to flow down the tubes. 140 weight is some seriously thick lube thicker than 60 weight engine oil. Where 80w-90 is more like 20w-50 engine oil thins down nicely and flows super good to the hub bearings. Limited slip requires it from the amount of heat the clutch pack produces as you drive city street and corner a bunch. The friction modifier is needed to make the lube slick enough to prevent chattering of the clutch pack. Hence why only the REAR AXLE with limit slip requires this thick lube. Open diffs should stay to the 80w-90 lube to reduce excessive drag and has better flow characteristics.

Some of us choose to live out in the national forest of the United States. It does come at a price of handling wild fires and protecting your home. I've had two wild fires within FEET of the house in the 30 years of living here. If you keep a defensible space around your home then fire danger is reduced quite a bit. Like myself I've got to clean up my space around both houses. Teepee Springs fire that burned the east side of the valley all the way to Riggins ID nearly 15 miles long.... This is not edited...

After driving back and forth to local friends place it runs fine isn't too bad for smoke does roll some coal clears up pretty quick. Without the boost fooler I falls flat on power as it passes 20 PSI then continues slowly to build all the way to 30 PSI. Still no codes at this point or any weird issues. I'll get the Quadzilla packed up and sent in the mail to Quadzilla Power for testing and repair.

About a full quart... At least for my truck it has the large reservoir. Plus bleeding... When I do flushes I will typically blow a full quart and fill on the second quart.

Nope. Actually, I got all codes to clear without the Quad. Back to stock ECM. It runs fine and got the OBDII port working I had a loose pin again...

Got up this morning got hitched up to go get a load of firewood back in the Nezperce Forest. I managed to get heading up the dirt road climbing a fair grade. I'm like 25 miles back in the forest. It was pulling good at 25 to 30 MPH and then all of sudden lost power and fell on its face. Check engine light was set. I did the key trick to see what happened I got P1693 and P1475 (5V bus too high). I turned around and started back down hill. I noticed the throttle was not working correctly like a dead spot. If I left it to coast it would throttle on it own and knock. If a touched the throttle it would throttle normal after the dead spot. I got my phone out and fire up the iQuad app and refused connection. Think maybe the Quad has something to do with it. Ok I just pulled the main connector. I know the MAP sensor is still hooked to the Quad loom. Ok at least it would drive without bucking. (hour later) I get home with the truck weak on power because of the MAP sensor not hooked up. I grabbed my code reader and here is the new list... P0234, P0236, P0237, P0238, P0253... Now the is no communication errors No P1694 or P1698. But Now I'm having trouble getting the OBDII port to read codes at all. I tried again with Marco on the phone 3 times. No communication. We are starting to think I got bad luck and both the quadzilla and my ECM is bad. Marco was suggesting to barrow a ECM and test again see if the ECM is damaged. I'm not sure about the P0253 code which is VP44 code. So now I've got to box up my Quadzilla for testing. Pull my ECM and send it to Auto Computer Specialist for testing. Might end up buying a VP44 too... Oh swell...

Like I no longer even consider deletes anymore. I've found a few tuners that delete the software but leaves all the hardware in place. It will reduce the regen cycles amounts and the EGR is shut off. Why bother with removing all the smog stuff to get hassled later for trying to sell deleted truck. Here in Idaho you cannot trade in a deleted truck.

As far as I know he's safe... Beaver creek, OR.

I typically buy directly from Southbend Clutch. I just call Ryan at Southbend and get what I'm looking for. Like I'm trying to get a clutch for the 2006 Dodge in my shop right now.

Limited slip 85w-140 GL-5 (Synthetic) Open Diff 80w-90 GL-5 (Petroleum) Transfer Case ATF (Dextron) ATF+4 is not required! Diff Covers just use Ultra Grey RTV silicone. Like my truck is open diff front and rear. Even with a limited slip rear you would use the 85W-140 in the rear and then in the front use 80w-90 since there is no limited slip front axles.

Typically that what happens... Even Common Rail has limits anyone that tells me the injectors are still good after 100k miles is "ignorance is bliss" state of mind. Remember that nozzle is in the firestorm every cycle of the piston where its heated to the temps of the cylinders. Then the pintle opening and closing. Then the minute amount of dirt that might get through a filter and presto worn injectors. I don't care who makes the injectors that all start to wear past the 100k mark. Even my Bosch Stock injectors at 150k miles still ran great but like DAP told me they were not even close to pop pressure. My stock set at 150k was about 260 bar. Minimum by Dodge FSM standards is 293 bar. Typically popped at 310 bar. Even Common Rail injectors will degrade and lose some of it pop pressure too over time. Just means the injector fire early. The way to detect injector life... What is the engine load if it near zero or at zero percent engine load the ECM is trying to defuel deeper to attempt to reach 800 RPM. Typically the injectors will cause the idle to rise like my 150k stock injectors idle at 850 to 860 RPM at 0% engine load. I just found another owner with 0% engine load and his idle is hanging at 805 to 810 RPM. Injectors are shot.

Long time no see... Sorry for the lag some of us have been super busy. I'm getting ready for winter and been trying to get firewood in the shed and stacked up before snow flies. There is a lot of old name lurking around like another member Dan called me from Canada yesterday and wondering if I was still alive as well. Lot of old names peeking in and seeing what up.

Quadzilla Power - 801-872-5472

Time to call @Quadzilla Power

I've got people in California, Oregon, and Washington all with fire danger issues. Like in Cally there is @Wet Vette mom. She just had a nasty fire come right up to Susanville. I was about ready to bail and head there to defend her home. Just remember USFS is NOT a fire fighter. Only a fire manager... USFS manage where the fire burns but don't attempt to put it out. Then with USFS and environmentalist out there that stopped logging and allowing livestock to graze. Hence why the nasty fires we get now. Here is 2020 fire map.

All electric sender MUST NOT be install right at the VP44 it will beat the sensor to death every time. You must remote mount and plumb them. The water hammer pulses at about 600 times a second so the distance is added for that to fade out. Like yelling out side you can be heard good at a short range bit a mile and farther away it could be hard to heard some one yelling. The other sensor here in my boost pressure. The reason for this if I need to test any sensor I can place a tee in the line and hook up mechanical gauge and test the sensor for accuracy. Mine are located on the fender. There is 6 feet of 1/8" air brake line to the snubber is installed at the tap point. I'm using a sinstered metal snubber. I do have also a cut off valve for safety. This has been working now for over 10 years no issues. Same sensor and never been replaced.

Welcome to the family...

This is why I do not suggest AGM or sealed batteries. There is no way of doing this equalize charge on any AGM or sealed battery. Even my solar system does this same task with raising the battery voltage above operational voltage and continues to run till the set time expires. Basically you looking to increase a 12 volt battery to at least 15.5 volts and hold it till the charge amperage drops to near zero. This will signal the completion of the equalize charge. Oh yeah 8 years on my current batteries still ticking WalMart... I also cheat and use the solar system to do my equalize charging. I hook up battery cables to two 6 volt batteries and then hook up to the 12 volt battery. Then set the solar system for equalize and let her rip... Battery goes along for the same ride. After all that I typically check the electrolyte before make sure there is enough electrolyte to start the process and then again checking afterwards. Do not top off cells full before the charging typically the electrolyte will rise or expand during the charge process. A full, weak cell could over run be aware. Again... WARNING: Do Not Equalize any AGM or sealed batteries! EXPLOSION will occur! It will cause battery damage by venting too much moisture from the electrolyte.

Few bad apples doesn't always mean the company is bad. I've had two trip to Auto Computer Specialist. My own alternator had a short on the blue wire side and it cooked out the PCM so bad if fact I required a full replacement since the circuit board disappeared. New unit was flashed and returned to me in 7 days. My second trip was a 2012 Ram 2500 with a weird issue of going brain dead. No nothing... Sent it in and had it repaired. Returned and worked for a short while. Then found out nothing wrong with the ECM but something in the wiring was bad. CANBus issues.