Mopar1973Man

Yes. Talk to Ryan at bluetop he's got seal kits. He's also vendor here on the site.

Ill have to jump in here and explain equalize charging. When I get home ill explain in detail.

Or use 95.7 inches to pass stock speed through.

Correction 135% I'm really close to dead on.

More expensive... Yes Frantz has new rolls for like 4 or 9 bucks a piece. http://www.frantzfilters.com/synthetic-vs-cellulose-media/ I loved idea of 9 buck and having 12 rolls. Not 9 bucks for one roll. Then changing twice in oil change interval. So the filter now are more expensive than the main oil filter. Ugh. Now you know why I pulled my Frantz.

Better check you length of the roll. I pulled mine because the Scotts roll is too short and not sealing any longer. Cup ring is not pressing into roll like it supposed to.

Lol... This is why I base my tire pressures on axle weight. Much better way to do it.

Well I got 335k miles from my tie rods. Farther than 99% of the people here.

The guy in glasses doesn't have to know anything. Just how to put the pump in place, hook it up and press the start button.

What are you using for filter media now?

OEM right from the owners manual is 7.5 k miles. Even from the FSM it's 7.5k miles. always get a chuckle from people using high price synthetics and changing earlier that OEM specified. Then you grab a guy like @cajflynn dino Delo 15w-40 and Fleetguard filter changed oil every 20k miles. Made 1.3 million miles. Hmmm... Like myself 7k to 10k oil changes on 15w-40 Delo and Napa Gold. Here is a older TDR article... Kept in my PDF archive here. End of the article... https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=17565

Scam for sure. First, of the Bosch 815 test stand for calibrating the PSG is about $660,000 for one machine. Then the time it takes to process one pump on the Bosch 815 is about 3 hours of testing then the PSG is flashed. The license from Bosch to be a rebuilder is sick high in dollars. This is why there are so few people that are a certified rebuilder.

Yes sir... California plates in my yard?!

Might of been that it was overfilled and the oil was foamed up from the crank whipping air in the oil. When you changed the filter the oil level was reduced enough to keep that from happening.

Get after that... Not long left on those bearings. I've had one fail in a mere few miles and tire was leaning in against the brakes. Yeah do the tie rods and the ball joints you might toss in a track bar too (suggested if it moving at all). Ummm... I just changed my tie rods for the first time at 335k miles. The trick to long life is stock sized tires. Ball joints are going to make 200k miles. The steering box was replaced at 338k miles as well input shaft seal failed (rust). Track bar typically go 150-200k miles for me. Brakes are 180k to 200k miles.

I've seen it... It a custom homemade heatshield out of some rather interesting materials. Covered on top even. The only open side is towards the fender hole.

Then on the website there is a list of the key part numbers.

Near the battery. My problem is the plastic clip failed so the foam protects the line from rub/vibration damage.

I was the same way back when @Yankneck696 (Ed Grafton) was around. He used to talk about how the Quadzilla did so much. Now that I've been in the Quadzilla now for nearly 3 years. I can say I could not go back to Edge product or any canned tuner. What is so amazing about the VP44 truck there is no set one tune fits all. Like my tune will not work for @Akaiser21 because of injector and turbo differences. So why did people with canned tuners expect the same? Hence why fuel, timing and boost management much simpler and much cleaner than any canned tuner on the market. I'll admit the smarty touch is next in line which will do the same thing but limited to only 60 HP (CANBus fuel only). This is a very complex tuner and does much more than Quadzilla can for CR Engines. As I've learn there was so much myth and mystery to the VP44 and ECM that if you get down to it. VP44 only controls 2 things. Fuel amount (duration) and timing. Nothing more. What makes the Quadzilla easy is most of the sensors are not used. We get right back to simple tuning without the complex figuring for other sensors (fuel temp or IAT). Since the majority of the time the engine is fully warmed 190*F you can adjust timing to meet IAT temps by advance the full table +1 or retard -1 your choice. The actual name of the game is lower EGT's (more fire burned in the combustion chamber), slightly higher coolant temps (from the fire being more in the combustion chamber) and lower boost because less of the expanding gases are pushing past the turbo. When you engine load rises past your cruise limit set then you want just enough retarded timing to spool the turbo to build power back again so you can quickly return to the cruise state which typically is much lower engine load (fuel duration). Typically my 65 MPH cruise engine load is 17-19%, timing is 22-23* BTDC, EGT's 500-550*F, boost typically 1-2 PSI. Out of cruise timing drops to 16-17* and boost jumps right up. My 55 MPH EGT's are very low like 400-450*F.

As far as I know, there is no way to lift the gear high enough to get the gear to skip a tooth. You would have to remove the gear case cover and remove the gear to change its position.

I will admit it is much much easier to install 1/2 inch pipe insulation on the orifice tube before installing to the truck. It a rather PITA to do it on the truck but not impossible though.

Sure... The entire orifice tube assembly. From the condenser out front to the evaporator at the firewall. This is the device that CREATES the cold. The accumulator is after the evaporator so it's got no performance benefit to cover it. Typically when I stop and the Quadzilla is running the engine for cold down I can open the hood and the accumulator is typically soaking wet and sweating hard core. Cold to the touch even after just climbing a 6% grade. I really doubt you going to gain anything with covering the line after the evaporator. Typically even on a 85*F day I've got to add a bit of heat to the temp setting because the cab is dipping down too COLD!

Funny back when I bought my truck brand new there was all the scare about oils and filters. How Fram was making scrap iron of the engines. It was required to use either Fleetguard or Mopar oil filters. Now years have gone by and people fell away from that and back to Napa, Wix, and other filters. No reports of engine melting down or wearing out premature.

Now after watching the video I thought I'd love to add that to the toolbox. For $500 bucks I can keep the old style torch. Wow those are expensive.

Most likely the rotor plate. That would be the weakest link in the pump. The 3 armed piece next to the main shaft. This piece couples the main shaft to the rotor.