Mopar1973Man

Some oil should help it out to prime. Be be warned this problem will happen again if there is a air leak problem. So if you lose prime on the pump you'll be cranking till the cows come home to get it primed again. Fuel Boss uses the stock lift pump for system priming and them runs on the mechanical pump after starting. So you keep your bump the starter prime system but as soon as pressure is seen the electric pump is disabled.

Can't discount good ol' Vulcan Performance +50HP Injectors they are really clean.

One of the small reason I went to a wire tapped module and not a programmer.

During assembly did you tighten the crossover tubes first or the injectors hold down caps? Correct way is the crossover tubes first so the injector can move around to get its seal created.

I was hoping to get Jamie over from CPP... I sent him a email...

At any case the transmission is coming out to be inspected.

I tend to agree with the guys here I would stick to the Load Range E for the strength of the tire. Even though the weight rating is the the same there is 2 more ply in the tire.

Some poor soul found out on a VW...

Yea I did the same thing the lower joint first because of the press rod sticking up.

I would base any re-manufacturer by there warranty and how fast they are willing to make thing right. I've seen lots claim 1 year but if there is a problem you get shoved on the back burner. Also remember the ECM is only capable a certain amount of flashes before the PROM gives up. It rated somewhere in the thousands. Unknown how many have been done to a reman ECM.

Being the ECM is the failure may sure the alternator isn't the cause either.

From what is typical you would fill with GAS or upright on the lo side only.

I advise against this... Good way to kill your batteries without knowing it. What happens in most start out with a warm batteries and mix up baking soda and op it on everything. The rinse it off with a cold water garden hose. What happens next is the battery creates a mild vacuum and draws in a few drops of baking soda solution into the battery cells. So doing this a few times you will kill your batteries in a short span. I normally take a plastic brush and water scrub the loose stuff off and the clean it up with a wire brush getting the lead shiny again. Then treat it with engine oil. Q: What is the only materials that sulphuric acid will not eat? A: Plastic and Glass Q: What is plastic made from? A: Oil...

Use to have a CAT stove. It didn't last long. Then we had one of those reburn stove that used air injection to reburn the smoke before it left the stove. It didn't last long either. Then the "Stove That Jack Built" This beast has no smog BS just heavy gauge steel box with a blower to circulate air. Not quite big enough to hold fire all night but it only requires 3/4 of a turn and the air doors to maintain 75-80*F temps upstairs. 1 full turn can run you out of the house at better than 85*F if your not careful. I've made the mistake a few times and left it at 1 turn and had it roasting hot upstairs in the bedroom till your sweating in the bed. Like right now I've got the blower unplugged and the air at 3/4 of turn nice cozy 77*F here at my desk.

I use a bucket of hot water for discharging the cans into the system. If your waiting for the gas to generate and flow you might be in for a long wait been there done that. I typically use hot water to push it into the system. Most Dodge trucks need three 12oz cans. That roughly speaking. I normally tune and tweak the pressures to keep the compressor running solid. But I've never had to jumper a compressor yet to fill it.

This is messy but... You could loosen the fuel filter lid and taking a rag and a air gun and blowing some pressure to the fuel tank to verify the fuel can flow to the filter and there is no blockage. As for flow you could open a fuel line up and route into a bucket or similar and turn the key on and see what comes out for flow. Another way is to measure fuel pressure at key on and the continue to watch as you start if the pressure falls out then the lift pump supply volume can't keep up with the demand volume hence a fall in pressure. There is always more ways to skin a cat...

Assuming the RV is plugged into 120VAC as well. The RV converter might be bad and boiling your batteries out. Double check the function of the RV converter.

I would clean the condenser really good with simple green and a high pressure washer. Do this several times. You be surprised of how much bugs and junk get pack in. How the fins are they all bent up? Straighten them out if so. Fan clutch only comes into effect when the coolant temp rises over 210*F then it locks up. Beyond that it should be free spooling. I'm curious what pressures your seeing? (Lo and Hi) Your 90+ temps down in Texas are just as much as our 105-115*F here in Riggins, ID. But I still can hold a consistent 40*F at idle in 100+ heat.

Like I try to inform people is the whole design of ATF has changed from 1970's to today. They are not even close in design any longer. So yes back in the 1970's it was fine to to add ATF to the fuel or to a filter. Today ATF is so different it doesn't burn correctly. Then "We've always done it that way" phrase... I really get wound up too over that. Just because back in the old days it was common to do things doesn't mean that today's engine will tolerate that. Like using ether, ATF, all kinds of "We've always done it that way". It will come back to bite you eventually.

Congrads. Those are some pretty big shoes your putting on.

Yankneck696 would be a good one to talk to about those vehicles.

Rancherman what are you doing? I don't have half the problems you do? I hitch up the 20 ton splitter to the ATV driver over to the wood pile. Fire up the wood splitter and proceed to split wood. If the rounds are to heavy to lift no problem put the splitter in vertical mode and driver the splitter to the round. Sit down and spit it up. Getting wood in your eyes? You really got me baffled with that one.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/size/285/70/17/OE/BNW/all-terrain-t-a-ko/tire-details#techspecs Something is weird here how can a Load Range D be the same weight class of a Load Range E???

Might be the speed rating.

That's the problem we have here now. With a wood burning stove you have to be at home to keep the house warm. So during the day when I take off for work MoparMom can tend the fire rather easy. But now if we want to leave for Boise for a day or over night that's a problem because there is no other form of heat really. So during the winter time we are confined to the house for the most part. Would be nice to have a thermostat and walk away. But we don't so there is the downside to wood burning as a primary heat. I'm sure I could buy a few oil radiator heaters and place them around the house but that might get expensive fast. I'm sure the inverter won't like that long. With how mild the weather this winter I'm going to be way ahead on firewood too. I'm out splitting up wood last few days being the weather is warm and dry so get the last few rounds split up and stacked. I'm attempting to clean up the wood splitting area.