Dieselfuture

I would run Pennzoil like you're planning for a while then switch to amsoil.

Probably losing prime someplace, did you redo your fuel system yourself or just parts of it. Or have you ever touched it. When did it start just recently or always been this way, what was the last thing you messed with fuel related

I drink my fluoride cold

If you're talking to me, I have seen them and like mentioned above no outcome yet. I got rear cover when I got the truck before much research, but it did lower my temp by feel, I didn't have a temp gun then, just putting my hand on axle was pretty warm before rear cover and later I could let my hand rest on axle it was just barely worm. Could it be more fluid, probably, all I know is it helped. If I had to do it again, I probably wold not spend the money on it. I probably wouldn't spend half the money I did... but knowledge comes with time and if you don't know you have to pay.

What was the other short that takes PCM out, I keep mixing the two

I got a fast cooler on one side filter on the other I also have mac high tech rear disc cover with 8 quarts of Amsoil. When I used to tow trailer a lot more often my rear end was pretty warm to the touch, after Hi-Tech cover and double oil capacity it is now warm. So I know it worked for me. As for coolers, I did not measure temperature before I only put the probe in after cooler installation. As for wrapping exhaust with a blanket I made a heat shield and clamped it on. Not sure if it helped but I want to think it did.

What about Marine bhaf, aren't they the ones have steel Mash inside. I'm a bit nervous myself now, with 7x10 and 62/67/12, I may be pretty close to pushing limits off bhaf. Maybe a chunk of PVC or corrugated/ perforated tile inside the filter will prevent it from collapsing.

Welcome, you pick the right truck to learn on, you'll have lots of experiences. Like mentioned above don't try to fix everything at once, some of it may not need to be fixed, other times you fix more than one thing and be left guessing what did what. Consult here and take it slow one step at a time so nothing gets missed. On your free time start reading past posts on this forum, lots to be learned. You may have stock injectors or box isn't hooked up, this is a whole other thread on its own. By saying not wired up correctly to fuel pump meaning vp44? Tap wire? Keep it as stock as possible, other than needed mods like, fuel pressure/lubricity, grounds/batteries/alternator, send your transmission to dynamic to be done the right way or learn and do it yourself, just these little things, stay on top of maintenance ( preventive vs proactive ) You'll get bent over more than likely by most shops that deal with these trucks, best is to buy tools and do it yourself, then at least you get to keep tools in the end. Even if alignment and front-end is perfect they will still wear some, maybe a simple rotation. What size tires? Like me78569 mention, most of us went through the whole front end. I chosed to upgrade to T style vs Y for steering linkage. Get a quart of fluid that your truck takes, smell it, then pull dipstick and smell it, should smell the same. If there are problems it'll smell burnt. How does the power steering fluid look, is it clear, red, black, Exhaust and boost, typically you don't want to be running above 1200f, and 30ish psi of manifold pressure assuming you have an hy turbo. No, you select what/who you want to quote and write under the box. Depending on how often you change your mind, being you're yong, at this point it's priceless. First you need to set your goals, you can spend 2k or 10k and not be where you want. If you use 5% or higher (up to 20%) of biodiesel, then you don't need to add 2 stroke, problem with bio is it attracts moisture, so if you let the truck sit for long periods of time then fill with regular diesel and add 2 cycle oil, drive a bit to get it all mixed and in through the system before parking. By long time is something over few months. Every little bit helps and doesn't have to be dead on, don't be going cheap on us already..... There is a decent size stamp on the side of the block with 53. Most crack early, and few later in life. If you warm it up before abusing it, it should be fine. Casting is little thinner in the block so it's more prone to cracking. When coolant is running down the side of the block.

I'll have to say it's your pump or not enough tension on the belt. Maybe when you decelerate belt slips a little. Pressure shouldn't change still same RPM.

A bit off topic, someone I know had oil changed at Walmart and they put a fram filter on, right of way car made funny noise, they called me asking for opinion, once I found out they just changed oil I looked at filter and it was fram I said more than likely it's the filter. Went and got a wix and noise went away. This car has a timing chain tensioner that works with oil pressure, fram was so restrictive that it was cutting flow to the tensioner. I quit using that brand long ago and if they ever become better I will still refuse to buy one for all the damage/headeck they've caused already. Screw that company, worst filters on market, superteck is better and cheaper.

Check with auto computer specialist in Florida, they may guide you in right direction, they also program and fix ecm,pcm and some other stuff.

With a good shop that knows what they're doing all you need to do is take the head off and take it in without taking any off of it. If you want to install different springs bring them in and they'll put them on when they assemble it.

I'm with Nick on this one, What I found helpful is I got a dedicated s6 for the quad that is on airplane mode and only quad linked. Seems to be working every time, very rear it struggles. But definitely it need some attention in the app place. Just too many people having same issues.

When my hg went it was pushing oil out of front of motor where middle bolt goes through. When I removed the gasket I took a closer look and found few other spots that was actually missing small part of gasket close to coolant passages and in between. It was a short matter of time before it would of blew coolant out of side someplace. Mine went around 150k, I believe it has more to do with age than mileage. Of course if you put 100k a year then there is a good chance you'll need a hg every 500k, or not. Definitely do a valve job, personally I would recommend spend another 100 bucks to machine the head so it accepts top hat style valve seals, that come on newer models now

And you didn't have boost leaks before? odd, if they blew off at 35psi I'd think there should of been at least a small leak at 15-20psi

Who in their right mind is going to want a truck with no phone in a phone holder, 245 Pizza cutters, no lift, no cool bumpers, balls that almost dragging on the ground.... I suppose maybe there is someone that likes it that way Sorry Mike, we wouldn't give you crap if we didn't care. But yeah I agree, locks are made only for good people. If someone wants it bad enough they'll take it. At the same time most people that steel are not very bright, and if they did break in and manage to start it, it would run like crap on level 1 with defuel set at 15% there would be a very good chance that they will abandon it. You can always install a GPS tracker in some place that is not easy to find and have a full coverage insurance.

Yeah I've been reading about some menards stuff people used and said it made a big difference. I think it was some duck work stuff and I believe it was lead. Need to research some more, I don't want to do it twice and definitely not trying to spend bunch of money doing it, I'm sure it can be bought cheap under diferent description, if it's special it's always expensive.

I'm more than sure it intercepts the signal between ECM and vp44 modifies it and sends it on, fingers pretty quick if thing is pretty quick if you ask me.

A bit off topic here, I know we had few threads in past about noise reduction inside the cab. I'm thinking about getting out the interior again and using some of that foil looking stuff that sticks to the floor and walls maybe even doors. Anyone ever used anyting from Menards or Home Depot that work ? Or does it got to be something special

I guess if quad has nothing to do with idle for timing/fuel then the only reason my truck runs so clean at idle with 150s is higher pop pressure. And my slight hesitation on take off is from pulling canbus to 76 for start and ecm/qwad is fighting for who's right.

It's all metal to metal, I have used a 2000 sandpaper before to clean up my lines, because someone over tightening before and put a groove in them, but I've never touched crossover tubes where lines or injectors mate. You can clean them on the outside with no problems.

But it does affect canbus fueling at idle, am I correct? That's where the whole fighting between ECM and quad is for fueling.

Just got one thanks for the Post

What are your pressure readings, idle, going down the road and wot. Minimum is 14, normal 16,18 and for the most part want to stay 20,21 max. Also good idea to put a snober and a needle valve before the gauge, or it will fail prematurely.