dripley

Welcome Doug. A 30 psi gauge would be better but the gauge you mention is no longer avaiable. I dont believe Pricol makes them any more. Or at least I saw nothing with a quick look on their web site.

In the meantime I will tag @Dynamic on the shifting issues.

Most of the t steering kits for the 2nd gens just bolt on as I recalll. I believe @Dieselfuture might have a part number to look up. Probably going to do this myself in the next several months.

Thats pretty big HP in my book.

RV275's and a an edge ez or something similar are a good bump in power and will tow well unless you want to climb the 6% hill going 65mph. All of this power stuff is just a matter of what you want. You are the one who gets to choose. If I missed your goals here I will be quiet.

you are welcome. Thanks to @AH64ID for this one

I have not seen them local around here. Bought mjne at filterspro.com. Amazon has them also. Google the filter #. You dhoulf find them for $10 to $12 including shipping.

Nothing wrong with it. A lot of Cl oils went thru most everyones here when it was the prevalent oil out there.

A little motor oil will do the trick. I did the right after WT wrote the article and have no corrosion what so ever. I also have applied nothing to the terminals. They are as dry as the day I did the mod. Prior to the mod the batteries would get a little gassy sometimes and corrosion would start, post mod the charging system seems very happy and no gassy batteries.

I would second the above.

The WTS light is an ECM issue. Excessive ac voltage from your alternator can be causing problems for it and the other electronics. Testing that voltage would be good start. First you need a good DVM, a fluke is recomended but others that read ac milivolts will work. With the engine runing and everything off place the + on the charge stud on the alt and the - on battery ground. .035 and below us good, .050 and below is marginal and anything above is not good. WT's ground mod is a good solution to help lower the voltage also if its high. This will not solve your batteries draining but with the WTS issue I think its where I would start. If its getting to the ECM its getting to the other computers also.

What size fuel lines are you running? Are you still going thru the stock fuel cannister?

I have run dino for the life of the truck, 507k at the moment. First Rotella and at present Delo 400. My first oci's were done in the 3500 to 4000 mile range for a couple years and then went to a 7500 oci. Then after coming around here I am at a 10k mile oci. This with the Donaldson DBL 7349. Thanks @AH64ID for that one. I have nothing against synthetics. They definitely have their place and many folks use them excusively. That being said, I will have break my dino habit with the Equinox we just bought for the wife. It takes Dexos sythetic so synthetic is in my near future. I should add, I rack up a lot of highway miles on mine.

Good to see the progress.

Both of those wires are +, the black and the red. IIRC the black is the charge wire from the alternator and goes thru the 140 amp to the drivers battery to charge the batteries. This also powers the pdc. If they were + and - the fuse eould always be blown. With the mod just bring a wire down to the pdc from the drivers battery. I always thought all the paralle wiring was due to the additional electrical load that WT's truck has with his radios and such. I did run an additional ground wire between the 2 battaries and my system seems to be happier than it ever has. How is WT doing anyway? Wish he would post back to let us know how he is fairing after the fire,

1 bar eguals about 14 psi.

I am not much help over all but as far as studs go ARP can be installed without removing the head. No expert but I have not heard of any that cannot installed with out removing the head.

The one tons have 5" of rake? My 3/4 came with about 3". I have always like the rake on it.

No I can't. But I can say on about 3 occasions mine has done that on the front. Once so bad that it clogged up the BHAF with gear oil. The other 2 times just a trail of gear oil down the inner fender. Heat maybe???

I have to agree the whole mod is the way to go. While no electrical guru by any means my whole system seems to be much happier with the mod. NO electrical gremlins to deal with.

I have always tested mine on the alternator charge wire to a battery ground. I have also checked on the bat + to the bat - with similar results.

take your pick. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,suspension,coil+spring,7512 And I am sure RA is not the only place to look. If the shocks you have are not good enough I guess the 20 dollar monroe's I put on 4 years must be total trash. Well I guess they are now but not when I put them on. They did their job but need to be replaced.

I just ran a #4 cable from the parts store for the additional ground and ran it on the radiator just like the +. It is not expensive and easy to do.

Not sure what the post ground mod is that mention in the title. I have done WT's ground mod with very good success. Pre mod .035, post mod .010.

I replaced the right rear a long time back. The other 3 have 506k and change on them.