IBMobile

Welcome to the group. Nice hood mod and do you have HID blubs?

Truck calls for dot 3 but I've been used dot 4 fluid for the past 6 years with no problems. I wouldn't use dot 5 or 5.1. Is there anything wrong with them? If it ain't brook don't fix it is my policy.

Those tabs get brittle with age and will brake sometimes with the slightest of pressure. When reconnecting along with dielectric grease I'll use a zip-tie to keep them together. Don't know about the tool, I have my on special thingamajig that I use along with four letter word instructions.

If you see an increase that will indicate that the waste gate is opening to soon when the actuator is connected to the boost elbow you have. Factory boost is limited to about 18psi. The boost elbow I have with my Edge EZ will give me a max pressure of 26-27psi and then settle down to 22-24psi.

Have you tried running it with the hose from the boost elbow to the waste gate actuator disconnected? With the waste gate not allowed to open you would see your max boost pressure. If the Edge wasn't boost fooling the check engine light would come on along with defueling.

It would be a good time to adjust the front and rear bands too. The rear band adjustment is only accessible with the pan off. Remember, tighten the bands to 72 inch-pounds NOT foot-pounds, don't over tighten the pan bolts (13 foot-pounds) and let the trans drip for a while before sticking your head under there.

I bought a 10 pack of solar eclipse viewing glasses for people to use.

You might have lost electrical power to a key component. Check connections at the PDC, ECM and injection pump. Also check fuse and relays that power up those systems.

Welcome. I lived in Cumberland, RI for 21 years and get back there once in a while and to see a 16 year old truck from there in the primo condition yours is in is amazing.

Welcome to the group. Nice looking truck you have there.

As long as it reads accurately and has the functions that you need, no need for a high price unit. I have 4 different multi meters, two of them were free and didn't spend over $30 for either of the other two. They all have their pros n' cons. One of the free ones I've used almost daily since 1989.

JAG is posting picture challenged with his Kodak camera and phone

I'd rather hear "you need a root cannel"than "we need to talk". I hope it's not serious.

The expansion valve is by the right battery. The 134A passes through the valve and is now a cold low pressure liquid in that pipe. The foam and aluminum tape are just factory insulation to help keep that liquid 134A cold until it reaches the evaporator and in no way should be use for protection from a vibrating part. Dripley, I like that cradle idea. Did you just rest the filter on the cradle or strap it down to limit the filter's movement?

It's so when it doesn't seal tight anymore the check engine light will come on with a p0455 large leak in fuel evaporative system and you can't just go to your local parts house and get a new gas cap to fix it. It means money for Honda.

I used old heater hose to cover the A/C lines.

You can all ways move out to the diesel truck with the camper on it.

Every one has had their "Information please" person sometime in their life. If you just look back in life you will fine your's. Thank you for the story, it made me think about mine.

I've been looking at the replacement dash for my truck. Right now I've got a carpet dash cover that came with the truck when I bought it so you can't tell the dash is braking. I've been going to the 'pick your part' salvage yards thinking may be I'll get lucky and find on there. If I have to buy one I'd probably get it from LMC because it's all ready painted.

I agree. Just because they are the dealer doesn't make them knowledgeable about older models. The mechanics that were working on them 14-18 years ago are probably gone and the guys that are there now may know 3ed generation and newer only. There are 2 dealers in San Diego county that call me to help them fix the older Volvos because the mechanics there have no experience with them.

Sometimes a big pair of water pump pliers works.

When mounting the brake brackets, calipers and hardware the proper mounting bolt torque can be critical. It is best if a torque wrench is used for this.

The manufacture's extended warranty is all ways better than the independent warranty companies and this extended warranty policy looks like it as good as it gets.

What gets me about those extended warranties is you pay for a 5 or 6 year extended warranty but the first 1to 3 years there is the factory warranty. It's like having two warranty policies at the same time. It would make more sense if the extra warranty policy didn't start until the factory on expired. Make sure the warranty covers the electronics, leaking seals and gaskets . I worked at dealers for over 20 years. A car would come in with a rear main crankshaft seal leaking. The owner thought that the extended warranty would cove it. When we'd submit a claim to the warranty company it would be denied. The extended warranty would only cover hard parts like cam shaft, pistons, ect.

A good looking auto. I hope you have many years of trouble free driving.