2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I can't decide on which governor solenoid to get, the upgraded borgwarner or the GM upgrade. Who's running what?

I want to thank Mopar Man and all of the members that have shared their knowledge, experiences, and wisdom in our endeavor to maintain and perfect our Ram Cummins. You guys have a real passion for these machines and your willingness to share and help strangers is a fine example of the type of individuals you are! Cheers to all of you! I have been learning from this site for several years, first as a non member and now as a subscriber. If I look hard enough I will find the information I need to solve all the different issues I have taken on with my Ram. The expertise and technical insight I have gained from all of you is beyond any expectations I ever had. …

(So confused right now. I can't remember if I asked this question or not. Memory and fuel system not good. I'm going to install shut off valves and install elec fuel pressure gauge. I have an Airdog pump system. Fuel exits the tank by a sump at bottom of the fuel tank then goes to Airdog pump then directly to VP 44. If pump and water filter are below the level of fuel in the tank... I can just open valve on water filter and tank should just drain (slowly) by gravity, right? Thinking about locations of shut off valves... just after sump drain and just after Airdog pump. Does that sound good or is there something bett…

Ok - I sure seem to be fining weird stuff lately. Rang around for A spicer 1480 ujoint today ...... couldnt get one. Settled for an Advanced Auto Part #295 Greaseable Moog Ujoint (20054BF). Installed fine. When i finish buttoning her up ....... I notice 2 things. 1) The grease nipple wont go all the way in ........ 2) There is a small amount of play ...... say 1mm ..... rather than being pure tight on the end caps with teh straps. The cclips appear tight. Thinking its probably they need grease - load up the grease gun - but it doesnt seem to want to go in ...... spills out everywhere. Not sure if this is due to nipple not fully seated ....... but wouldnt…

So last week my clutch went out and so I bought a new clutch for the truck (Southbend Single Disk Feramic clutch if anyone is wondering) and I threw everything onto the truck up until reinstallilng the transmission itself. Just got done packing the throwout bearing and input shaft (high temp wheel bearing grease) and I realized the clutch is in the truck and everything already and I don't want to take it out again to get greases in the splines since I was told there needs to be grease in the splines of the input shaft and to use the clutch to spread it in the splines and I assume get some in the splines of the clutch as well. Make sense? I hope it does because my question…

Its not uncommon to read threads/posts where members are unaware of why their u-joint angles must be set correctly otherwise driveline vibrations will be a problem. I just ran across this 2 minute youtube video which I think does a very good but yet simple job of explaining whats going on. Maybe this will help some people out understanding whats going on under their truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aCK4Bob6a0

ok guys i found a great website that has tons of info, specs and a bunch of other stuff. heres a link https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html this website is FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all you have to do is create a login and your up and running. enjoy

Man seems like there’s been a lotnno f small weird issues going on with my truck lately. I developed a new issue late last night and this evening. I picked up a new truck last night and the truck ran perfect on the 2 HR drive. Got the trailer loaded and went to start the truck and nothing happened. No chime, no lights, no nothing except for the park brake indicator light wa s lit but extremely dim. Basically if acted like the batteries were completely dead. My only thonly but was hook up jumper cables so I had the fella helping me jump me and it started no problem. I drove the 2 hrs home with no issues. Drove to work this morning with no issues or problems. Went to leave …

Hello All, Sorry for the story, but I am confused. After reading all the articles on here with AC Noise Issues/Excessive alternator load, I began disconnecting my grid heaters (at the battery) during the warmer months (40F+). Over the holidays, I took a trip to the mountains for some time in the snow so I hooked back up the grids and first start up the check engine light kicked on. The engine was idling fine, but i noticed the voltage gauge took a long time to recover from the initial grid usage and every trigger (2 times) before I took it down the road to just check things out. At the gas station (5 miles away), I scanned the truck…

So my grid heater ALWAYS comes on when I start the truck. It doesn't matter whether the engine is warm, ambient is warm, etc. Example today: 78* ambient temp Engine temp 180 Intake air temp 175 Charging voltage (once moving and grids shut off) 13.6V. The lower charging tells me the battery temp sensor knows it's warm out, so that's pretty much ruled out. Is the ECM just mad because it can't see a VP??

Anyone installed Larry B's grid heater relay? Have to buy new one because old one got stuck and almost burned my truck!

@IBMobilethis question is for you. The solenoid you recommended (ss598) is a different style than the one you used. Does this matter? Seemed to work fine when I first installed then me wife took truck out of town and commented on how hard it was to start. Solenoid doesn’t work now. Any ideas? Did I just get the wrong part or...??

A couple of weeks ago i did @IBMobile grid heater bypass. Everything worked great with no issues. This morning when i went to leave for work i turned on the grids. Fired up the truck, everything normal. Turned off the toggle switch for the grid heaters while the grids were powered up. Started driving and noticed my digital volt gauge was dark. Didn't think too much of it. It was cheap and figured it just died. Shut the truck down at work and realized my turbo timer was also not working. Checked everything and both volt gauge and turbo timer are fried. Took a little to put it together but i believe a current spike from the SS-581 solenoid destroyed them. I did some researc…

Have a 99 Ram, it was shutting down when I would turn on the headlights. I determined that the 2 wires going to the grid heater relay is coming on with the headlights. It is a orange/black and a yellow/black wire. from a diagram, I see that this comes out of the ECM and triggers + 12 when the key is turned on depending on temp. I am trying to trace these wires back to the ECM and having a tough time. It looks as though the loom may go through the firewall and into the cab.

What is the best way to delete the grid heater and do the wiring to not get any codes? I live in northern CA so I don't need them and I have a big stereo system so I want to eliminate the extra draw on the alternator and battery's. thanks

Good morning, I am not sure this is proper place to post, but does anyone know where I can get a grid heater harness for my 1999. I took my off this past spring and I cant find it and want to hook up the grid heater for winter. Tim

So on initial start ups, I've noticed that there tends to be some white smoke. Only one time has it been to the point where I was like man, that's a good amount haha. Other then that, its just a little bit, not even really noticeable in my mirror. Anyways, every time I start there always seems to be a slight hiccup at start (I'm thinking this may have to do with the stock intank lift pump so I'll update once the fass is on) but she idles out smoothly after a second or so. It was around 48* this morning. I have a typical wait to start time, fire her up, and again, have a little white smoke. I then waited to see if my grid heater would kick in with the voltage drop and noth…

Can I control the grid heater by installing a switch on the Grid Heater Relay control wires? I know this was talked about before. Did a search and nothing comes up.

The past few mornings it's been 25 degrees here. I go and start my truck to let it warm up a little and get the frost off the window. Normally the grid heater will cycle after I start it for a few minutes this morning and yesterday it only cycled one time. It did cycle before I started the truck and one time after but that's all. I didn't have the truck plugged in. Is this normal or do I have an issue?

Ok cooler weather here and after truck sits for 2 or more days I get a P0122 DTC 3-5 seconds after start. the code is low volt at APPS. I can clear code and it will stay away until the grid heaters cycle after start. I had batteries load tested atl. is good. The batts are 5 years old. All connections are clean and tight. If started and heaters don't cycle then no code.