Mopar1973Man

More than likely you are having issues with the isolator really common. What you need to do is reload it with coolant and rebleed the line again. Also remember to reset the piston too.(Personal opinion)I really don't like the isolators at all. Like in your case the isolator is case of your inaccurate fuel pressure readings. So you'll go the fight to re-setting the isolator and double checking everything. Then if you check the pressure with a different gauge directly connected to the fuel you might find a difference in pressure. I've been direct plumbed now for over 8-9 years and never had a issue with fuel in the cab. Also I'm using air brake line after check out the burst pressure I found out air brake line is rated to 700-900 PSI burst pressure. I hardly doubt 15-20 PSI is going to do it. Also it the same line used on bigger trucks...

Do tell about the data logging? Is it out yet?

If the problem is truely fixed the codes with self erase in 40 warm up cycles. So if you drive the truck for about a month it should be gone. Warm up cycle is defined as going from cold engine below 140*F to over 160*F worth of coolant temperature and then continue to run without setting the codes again. So like I said if the problem is truely fixed it will clear on its own.

Funny you should fine that as a answer. I just got done doing the same thing for a local gent here and replaced his batteries for a dead pedal issue. Strange what a fresh set of batteries will do for starting and performance issues.

Compression test might show a better picture of whats going on... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

Very good video... Nicely done! :thumbup2:Would you be willing to do a full text write up on this?

Too much to go wrong with Auto's...

Bold I'm pretty sure is the correct answer...

So absolutely correct! The only way for you to learn more is to ask questions.

Error codes?If you got to constantly reset the APPS I got a funny feeling your either chasing a failing VP44 or got alternator noise driving the ECM crazy. So check for error codes and then have the alternator tested.

Let me know I'll set you up with the service manual...

with the above posts!

Yes you can run synthetics but you'll fine there is not enough benefits to warrant using synthetics.Like I'm a weird duck with high MPG's (High mark 25.3 MPG) and low drag with all petroleum products. Then like CajFlynn cleared over 1.2 MILLION miles with a 2001 Dodge 2500 towing every day with Chevron Delo 15w-40 and Fleet gaurd filters change oil every 20K miles.Then there was Dorkweed that put on a hell of a show with SuperTech 15w-40 in his 2004 Dodge 2500 and cleared 84K miles on a single oil change. All tested with Blackstone Labs.So after seeing these 2 people do what the did with standard ol' petroleum products I don't believe synthetics are that much more superior to petroluem products.

If its a connector tube mis-alignment you will not see a rise in oil. It will just drain back to the tank in the fuel return rail. Only way to see fuel in the oil is with a stuck open injector.

Well it looks like the donor truck is a bit hammered hopefully the trans is in good condition and not abused.

Try double clutching it and see if that helps the 6Th Gear for a time till you get you funds together.

I've seen the waterglass article before too. Interesting way of trying to hold together a vehicle.

Little more secret to the IAT sensor. Even if you fool the ECM to seeing 143*F grid heaters with still be active post start. I though this was because of the ECM seeing the cold coolant tempaertures. Well during my testing I found the grid heater can still be active even with coolant temperatures of 170-195*F and Iat is still locked at 143*F the only thing left that can see temperature on my truck is the battery temp sensor.But as for moving the IAT up in the air horn I highly suggest against it because of the sole reason the ECM is programmed for the factor of the pre-heated manifold coolant passage that is near the IAT sensor.

Not much better...

IAT sensor should be AFTER the grid heater so the ECM knows if the grid heater are coming on or not. (simple version)

I hate to say it but no matter what brand name you pick there is going to be a weakness to it. Even every signle model of that brand has a weakness. It all about learning about the weakness early and protecting you vehicle from damage. Like 3rd Gens have weakness of injecotr failure like you found out and before that is the weakness of the fuel filters which causes the injector failures.

Welcome to the family here... Sad to here you starting out with a burn piston and bore. :(Hopefully you gain enough knowledge here to prevent that from happening again...

Come to Idaho in the winter time and you'll be glad Edge has defuel modes...

Haggar got what I was looking for... (touche')