Mopar1973Man

Barely made 82*F...Oh... Diesel here locally is 3.599 not bad for being in the sticks...

John... Geez you should know better. Well I guess you unhitched and went back into town with a couple of flat tires.Ummm... You do know that trailer tires are not rated for speeds over 65 MPH right?

Come to Idaho... (Note: the time is screwed up on the clock I noticed its AM when its supposed to be PM... :banghead:)Out the front door...

It's been over 15 years for me and I don't think I can get my wet suit on anymore. :ahhh:I'd still love to drive my Cummins out on the beach and enjoy the sea smell again...

Thanks Haggar... Enjoy a few beers or drinks... But be safe everyone...

Hmmm... I can say much of the present yet... But I can speak for my past! Poe Cabin fire - Taking a moment from the heat of the day. Manning my great Ford 550 engine. Poe Cabin fire was a lightning strike fire that started near a historic cabin and was mismanaged (in my opinion) and a lot of damaged was done. Watching a tree torch off. Very wicked experience! (Poe Cabin fire) I can post tons of pictures and such of past fires I've word for the 6 years of service. Spotting Heaven's Gate Fire with the Engine 11... (My fav little diesel truck!)

Don't I wish... I love to be parked there and scuba diving off the beach... :cry:Truck looks good though...

When a battery has been discharged after a heavy load like starting typically it should take longer for the voltage to return to full state. So when a battery has been discharged and bounces back to 14 volts rapidly I start to worry because the battery truly isn't charging any longer. So load testing is the best thing to do. As for the cables I would do the voltage load test on them too to verify they are passing the power to the starter with resistance in the middle. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Wow! :drool:Between you, me and the fence post I might be back to fire fighting again. There is a long story but I'm not going to hijack your thread...

I'll have to get my manual out and get the XGauge codes for you... How about it's rare for me to get above 2K on the tach... Unless I'm hot dogging. I do most grades at about 1,500 to 1,600 RPM's But if I'm towing I hold my RPM's at 2K...

Someone needs to wash there truck more also inspections of major systems need to be done more often...

Basically I've got Cmg (Current MPG for the day), Tmg (Total MPG's for the tank), Gfr (Gallons of Fuel Remaining), O2 (Oxygen sensor)I've got a few others but don't use them much or they never worked for my applications...So typically I leave these up on the display...MPH = SpeedCmg = Current MPG for the DayTmg = Total MPG for the TankMPG = Instant MPGSo what I do is keep my MPG above the goal MPG I want to to reach as much as possible. I use the knowledge of the terrain to aid me in reaching my goals. So like If I drive to McCall, ID I know that by the I reach there and climbing a 7% grade I'll have roughly 16-17 MPG. Then while in town I baby the throttle and keep my number as high as possible. I might gain another 1 MPG driving in town. Then on my way home I try to drive in a fashion to allow the truck to coast as much as possible gaining the whole way home. Hence my ability of reaching 23-24 MPG locally in the mountains. If you have to apply brake to make a corner and accelerate again your driving way too fast. Like travelling up and down Goose Creek grade I know the speed limit is 45 MPH. But the corners are 25 MPH (tight). So if I cruise at 35 MPH up the grade I'm not slowing and trying to build speed again (at least not as much).Like another stretch of road I travel from New Meadows, ID to Council, ID where it winds there the mountain I know its posted for 55 MPH but I typically drive it at 45-50 MPH because I can just about leave the cruise set and get around all the corners and never slow down.Anytime you use your brakes or exhaust brake you converting work energy into heat. So if you can drive in such a manner that you use just enough fuel to travel through a area without hitting the brakes you gain even more.In the state of Idaho there is no minimum speed limit. So you can drive slow as you wish but if you holding up more that 3 vehicles you must yield to traffic. (Pull over and let them pass). Since the economy is so poor up here there is so little traffic I can drive 35-70 miles and never have anyone pass me...

John I got a question?How do you deal with winterizing of that pressure tank how do you drain it out? Then how do you add antifreeze (pink stuff) without filling that pressure tank?

:banghead: I totally forgot about that! Yes your right you would use the that to do it single man...

As for the XGauge those are the commands to program gauges for what you want the SGII to do. Like being albe to see the O2 sensor on a gasser, etc.

When reassembling the calliper I would lube all the piston with a little brake fluid and press them into the calliper with a larger jaw channel locks or C clamp. Hose and bottle? Huh? I just assemble them to the truck and bleed them as normal.

Ekkk... Wow... You need to reconsider what your doing and look at your truck for drag issues.

Pistons need cleaning. You need to that them apart and clean the piston till it fits the bore without seals. Then the piston should naturally fall to the bottom without being push. Like this...

Flare Nut wrench and torque mine..

All right here... http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/

He knows I'm all the way over here on US95... If he just extends the trip just a little...

Shocker... Riggins, ID $3.659 for both gasoline and diesel...:stuned:As for my closest biodiesel station would be Biose, ID.

Glad to hear it... As for the boot get a can of hair spray and hose that boot done good and stick it back on and tighten it up. The hair spray will keep the boot from poppin' off. :wink:As for the radiator the reason it plugged up is you not keeping up with your coolant changes and flushing.

Actually I hate to say it but that line is direct wired to the battery through that fuse. It should be constant hot and not switched.

I store the gallon jug in the crate in the bed of my truck with a old quart bottle with the see-thru strip. I just pour into the quart and add what I need to. Been doing that way for years now... Not the cleanest or the easiest but it works.