Mopar1973Man

That's just wrong...

True the 12V (2nd Gens) where awesome truck and awesome MPG's but that was all design to fit together and work together. But now take old technology and put on new technology engine and expect the same outcome. It will never happen. Way too many variable to get that kind of MPG out of Frankenstein... Like me in stead of Ppumping the truck I learn how to get close to what you guys have in 12V... Not exactly 27 MPG but close to 24 MPG for a truck that weight another 1,000 pound more than early second gen I say not bad..

Alternator diodes. Like I just got off the phone last night with Chad (another member here) talk to him about his alternator and TQ conv and surging problem. So far what is happening is new alternator fixes the problem but in about 4-5 days the problem comes back. But now while the problem is occuring the AC voltage is jumping as high as 53 VAC but VDC is holding steady at ~14.x volts. But now take the alternator fuse out the problems are gone. So now we are trying to figure out what is causing alternator failures that are burning up the diodes. The only thing that comes to mine is the grid heater hanging up longer that it should putting alot of stress on the diodes. (Shoot from the hip and this unproven as of yet). Chad promised that as soon as he figures it out he's going to post his videos and testing results with us...

Never could understand the desire for Ppump conversion on every truck. There is so much drivablity with CR fuel system vs. static timing P7100 pump. Then like Rogan points out all the electronics that need to dealt with somehow. I say it best to look forwards and learn how to better what you got than trying to go backward in time retrofitting older fuel system parts to a newer engine.

Hmmm... Need something to break away from stock timing... Get the timing curve more aggressive like a programmer. But I don't think they produces programmers for those little cars?? (Or did they?)

Don't worry... I'm just...

Trick... Pull the coolant sensor (ECT) lead and allow it to trip a check engine light and Check gage light. Then rehook up the sensor then clear the codes... Weird problem with Dodge ECM/PCM combo's I see the same thing sometimes with P0500 codes I can't erase.. So doing the above will allow the tool to actual erase the code. Don't ask why its this way I don't know but I know the above trick works.

I still run the factory 190*F thermostat and no issue with coolant temp. Climbing grade I do see about 208*F but that is still very serviceable. Fan clutch is a big deal. I would make sure it locking up and pulling more air through the radiator once again it can pull air through if the face is plugged up with dirt, oil, and grime. Even CajFlynn our Million mile truck owner will tell you there is no reason to exceed 60-65 MPH while towing anywhere in the USA. He tows cross country through just about every state there is with large boats. Typically he keeps his speed down and never allow the boost to climb more that 20 PSI on any grade. If the boost has climb above that he just slows down and follows the truckers. CajFlynn's 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 53 Block over 1.2 MILLION miles hauling boats. If this man can do it day in and day out no reason you can't...

Like myself...* AirDog 150 (17 PSI @ WOT and 19 PSI @ idle)* BHAF* RV275 Injectors* Edge Comp (Set to KILL 5x5)* Straight Pipe 3"* HX35 Turbo (Elbowed to 35 PSI) * Jacobs Exhaust brake Mount to the turboTowing I can max out at 1,400*F if I was to stomp to the floor. But normal every day driving I see roughly 500-700*F rolling along at 55-60 MPH. So I'm not sure what you need to upgrade it more or less relearn you driving behaviour and most of the problems are driver induced...

Nice systems from what I've seen of them but in my case the would be crushed in a short order. Here is my crushproof lighting system. Cost a fraction of the price and come with 100W not 55W...

Finally broke under $4 in Idaho Payette, ID $3.989 for diesel.But up here in New Meadows, ID its still $4.109...

A/C compressor stay on full time. Temp knob had no bearing on the A/C compressor. But it will blend heat into the air...

See I told you... So if you want to control heat (EGT's or Coolant) take your foot off the throttle and allow the truck to do it job without being rushed. Now all you got to do is catch up to my MPG marks now so far I'm averaging 13-14 MPG (towing) 22-23 MPG (empty). Something none of thought of is a boost leak... :banghead:

Dang... There isn't any buses up here in this part of Idaho so I guess I'm safe... :lmao2:As for the input shaft and flexplate I don't see the need for upgrade really. But as for the TQ converter that is what is going to take a beating. If the clutch is weak it will slip. Then you know you got to drop lockup to gear down and then hit lockup again to gain Exhaust brake function. I know the 47RE trans has a history of weak input shafts and flexplates but I don't see anything that the exhaust brake is doing more that acceleration to exhaust braking. But I'll have to bow out of this one being I'm not a auto guru...

That is a PITA... I was hoping you had a wall that you could say peel open and add a stud to. But with cabinets on one side and tub on the other just ain't happening easy. I heard of several people managing to peel open walls and adding studs for there new flatscreen TV's. Easy no... But it can be done...

MAX A/C is the only position that closes off the outside air and recirc the cabin air. All other positions use outside air. Recirc ....................... MAX A/COutside Air ................ A/C, Bi-level, Vent, Floor, DEF/Floor, DEFA/C Compressor ON .... MAX A/C, A/C, Bi-level, DEF/Floor, DEF

Your DVM accuracy is rather low on AC it appears... I went out and grabbed my 23 year old Fluke 75 DVM and re-tested on my Cummins... Rest Voltage Battery Volts AC ............. 0.001 VAC Battery Volts DC ............. 12.62 VDC Running Voltage Battery Volts AC ............. 0.011 to 0.019 VAC Battery Volts DC ............. 14.02 VDC (72*F outside temp) 0.100 Volts AC isn't a problem really... It when you see 14-28 VAC on the DVM.

Ahhh... I'm glad it worked out for you and got you fixed up quick...

The only way my RV leave the yard is hitched to my tuck and no one else's... I will not loan a RV or even my truck to some one...

Flagmanruss asked if I would be nice to post this up for him...

Normal... That's torque management in 1st and 2nd Gears but hit 3rd gear the smoke rolls and the truck sling shots out of the hole. :burnout2:Torque management is released at about 20-30 MPH.The only way to completely remove that is get a RADBox from BD and it will kill the instrument cluster but there will no longer be any torque management.

No I don't have one... But the simple solution is when you get to dusty areas turn the the HVAC over to Max A/C and close off the outside air and recirc your air. No problem. 10 years of driving dusting Idaho road I've never plugged a evaporator core.Good tip...

If you wish you can start a thread and vote for it...

Actually a shorted diode is typically what causes the TQ Conv. lock/unlock issues. Actually so far the few that I've found do not over power the fuse and blown but continue pumping roughly 14-28 VAC into the circuit but on the VDC scale its still 13.5 to 14.5 VDC. The ATS fix basically takes a floating ground created by the ECM and turns into a true ground. So now if the alternator has a shorted diode on the negative side the AC wave has a perfect path to the PCM now that grounded the APPS lead. Then the ECM no longer provides the signal to the PCM but now the APPS is doing directly. There was a reason for the ECM and PCM when not wired this way in the firs place. What I look at is the fact these truck cover 9-11 years of time then now you got to consider chopping up the wiring for this little problem? (ATS wire mod, BD filter, etc.) Ok?! Then why don't why don't we see this problem over on gasoline vehicles why don't they have to chop up wiring and add filters? Why only the Cummins Automatics? PCM's are suppose to be that exact same. Let figure out the problem not band-aid the issues. As for the heat problem might be true down south. But like up here I'm still seeing temps 45-50 then might get to 60-65*F not hot buy no means. But still find ECM, VP44 failures (with > 14 PSI), ABS issues... Now I've not had a chance to apply the alternator though yet to check some of these weird failure but I will on the next one I run into. Like you see over on CF.com there is a few people that have a rash of VP44 failures with a Airdod, FASS or Raptor pumps that has good fuel pressure its entire life. This would be a good canidate to check alternator on.