Mopar1973Man

I would most likely park it... At this point you could get it rebuilt but drive it longer and you will have a major failure...

Ummmm... You not a fully loaded at gross truck weight? There is no need for 80 PSI in the tires... Give you example... My Truck weights Front Axle 4,420#Rear Axle 3,040#Total -- 7,460# Tire Capacity 3,412# @ 80 PSI (Cooper STT 265/75 R16 Load Range E) 4,420# / 2 = 2,210# per tire front axle.5,200# / 2 = 2,600# per tire at GAWR (Front) 2,210# / 3,412# = 64% of tire capacity in weight2,600# / 3,412# = 76% of tire capacity at GAWR (Front) 80 PSI x 64% = 51 PSI Inflation pressure for the front.80 PSI x 76% = 60 PSI Max Inflation for GAWR (Even though tire is rated to 80 PSI) 3,040# / 2 = 1,520# per tire rear axle.6,084# / 2 = 3,042# Per tire at GAWR (rear) 1,520# / 3,412# = 44% of tire capacity in weight3,042# / 3,412# = 89% of tire capacity at GAWR (rear) 80 PSI x 44% = 35 PSI Inflation for the rear tires.80 PSI x 89% = 71 PSI Max inflation for GAWR (Even though tire is rated to 80 PSI) So over inflating tires does nothing for MPG's but it makes for a very rough ride and wears the center of the tread out rapidily. Oh yeah reduce your 2 cycle oil to 128:1 or 1 oz for every 1 gallon of fuel 1.5 quarts is a bit too much...

No... I don't have a write up on it...

Personally... I prefer fleetguard filters over most store brands... But ask AH64ID he'll tell you the low down on which filter are the best...

Nice and clean!

Not that I'm aware of its just a bolt on item. The only thing I think you might look into is the oil lines that pass into and out of the cooler is ther O-rings on them? If so you might consider getting those too. But since I've never pulled a oil cooler I'm not sure... So I'll be learn from you as well.

Start a new thread... I can't upload to this thread its got a corrupt file in it holding up the works... :banghead:

Funny... I used to be a Fire Fighter for Salmon River Rural Fire Dept... Yeah I'm back and forth to McCall to get groceries... Not to mention I've got another gent down in New Meadows, ID that got his first 1992 Dodge Cummins 1st Gen and learning from the ground up...

Lake Fork, Idaho... Wow! I drive through there all the time... Might just have to get together some time I'll hook you up with the information you need.

Drawstraw isn't bad as long as you don't listen to the instructions or forum myths...

Hang in there let me fix a few bugs...

Here you go...

New Meadows, ID dropped to 4.369... Small start hopfully to keep falling...

Hey gang... Would you take a peek over here please... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4129-Experience-amp-Market?p=35508#post35508

Personally a few cans of over cleaner do just as well...

Good deal at least your "belt and suspenders" idea worked...

Right from the fuel pump relay (Pin #87) in the PDC to the VP44 pump (Pin #7)

Can't have flow without pressure. After doing the studying of the overflow valve by the time you get to 10 PSI the overflow valve is completely closed so flow is gone except for the flow to the injectors. Now if you coasting there is little to none. So at 14 PSI the flow will keep the VP44 cooled and lubed properly.

Found mine at the shift tower of my NV4500... (Reverse switch)

Yeah I would get the Edge hooked back up. It soon give you a slight boost to MPG numbers...

Typically if you remove a part like the compressor you suppose to add back amount of oil to replace what was lost. Each part in the system will hold a certain amount of oil. Compressor holds the most.

We need Pictures...

To add to Russ comments there... Yes the IAT sensor controls the initial use of the grid heaters before starting but after the engine is running it seems the Engine Coolant Sensor controls the post grid heater usage. I been running all winter with mine locked at 140*F and there is no grid heaters at key ON but after you start the grid heater cycle in and out. But now with warm weather I never see grid heaters any longer. So yes its possible for a intake temperature sensor (IAT) to fail within normal run specs and not throw a code but also be far off the mark from actual manifold temp. So this why I suggest using a live data tool to check the sensor value. Because like my setup I'm locked at set temp now no codes no issues. But now if the data tool can't be had you can just replace the sensor as a guess. They seem pretty cheap for $22 buck for a IAT sensor...

I ran through the FSM and didn't find anything about bearing or anything on the steering column. You might have to just dive in and look...

Only way to be sure is to get a Live Data tool and see what the value is. Check both the Engine Coolant and IAT Sensor. From a cold start both sensor should be the same. Then at full running temp the IAT should be about +40*F over outside air temp.