Mopar1973Man

One of the members here fave it to me. He tried didn't like it too much. Needed rebuilding bearings were shot.

Limited pedal... Check the alternator for excessive AC noise. It can pollute the tach signal. This could limit power.

True but there is little options for keeping my exhaust brake. My exhaust brake is a requirement for where I drive with mountain grades. Getting about 45 to 47 PSI of boost. Quick to spool typically. Most times spools so fast the tires come loose. Little smoke to just a haze. Normal EGT's at 66 is roughly 550*F and 2,000 RPM. Then at 80 MPH at 2,500*F its barely 650*F. Really good cool EGT's. No issues here. Towing just drop to level 3 and I can't exceed 1,200*F with the RV or any trailer.

Same here. Pretty steady typically.

Majority of time its the installer fault. Like I've installed over 4 clutches in the last month. Every single time I install a clutch I get the transmission to full mate before ever tightening the bolts. I use slide pins for lining up and this makes it perfect. Just done a Chevy/GMC 350 yesterday and it worked out just perfect. Put the pins in the bellhousing slid the transmission right up to the bellhousing in a single motion. If your pulling the transmission in with the bolts you now for sure messing up the installation. Most likely have a misaligned input shaft and forcing it to line up this is bad. Even when I did the clutch and transmission install on my truck on the floor. Same thing line it up and slide it all the way home. by hand BEFORE putting any bolts in the housing. NEVER PULL THE TRANSMISSION IN WITH THE BOLTS! SB Trick by Peter: If the clutch refuses to allow the transmission to seat. Install the slave cylinder. Have a second person to press the pedal down will the other now pushing. The clutch disc will come lose in the flywheel allowing the input shaft to align the disc freely.

Still got a rash of guys out there still dumb as a post and poor tuning rolling coal. I find at least 2 or 3 per trip that roll a huge coal over me just to show off. I just shake my head and think what an idiot. Most of them still listening to the stupid information that Edge Juice is the only tuner. Of course they have added huge injector to a tuner without timing adjustments. Edge Juice happens to be really good at rolling coal just like my old Edge Comp does too. The one that I can talk to I try to educate them and some do and other think I'm nuts that its impossible to have clean horsepower. If its not rolling coal its not working.

Bold is the injection pump. Replacement is required if the codes come back again.

It seems like clutch month for me. Just did a Chevy 350 clutch now im doing it again. This one happens to have a NV4500 transmission. Ill admit way easier on a Dodge or Ram to change a clutch than a Chevy.

Welcome to the family @kpeterson0124v

How good is the control of the boost is the good question?

Give @Blue-Top Steering a call excellent guy to work with. Maybe he'll respond to the tag. The only time you need all the braces is when lift kits are used and oversized tires. Myself I've gone almost 400k miles and never used anything but factory parts. No upgraded steering or anything. I did replace my steering box because of seal failure from rust. I've been using NAPA track bars with good results. Don't need to get sucked into brand names. I ran Rancho's 5100 for over 100k miles good shock. I've got KYB's now and another good shock. Bilsteins typically everyone runs to but not required. No Moog or Spicer joints no longer American made and tend to be of poor quality. My last batch was a set of I think AC Delco ball joints from RockAuto and have over 200k miles on them. OMG! That's a rip off. I would do that job in a half a day. Yeah you got to pull the VP44 out to do it right but its super easy to do. I did full write up on how to change that simple 20 dollar tappet seal. Gear case is a simple job too. Just get a crank seal and tube of grey silicone. Water pump is a 15 minute job. 2 bolts.

Hence why I liked the 3.55 gears and just dropping to 245's which got me the 3.69 ratio final. 20mm narrower than stock but 1 inch shorter.

The gap between the tip and the tank bottom should be the thickness of 1 or 2 quarters coins. Should be measured with a empty tank! Then the end should be cut straight. NO cuts at a slope, slant, or other wise. You may notch the tip but only 1/16" of a inch deep. No more! 300k miles.... Only time I see that is climbing steep grades at low fuel. Launching like 1/4 mile race track them I can pull the fuel to the rear of the tank. Normal driving I can pull down to EMPTY or the 1/8 tank mark no problem.

1998.5 to 2002 was a red headed step child truck. What I've found out back in 1996 we still had the p-pump but federal regulations forced the OBDII requirement on all vehicles. This meant that Dodge had to upgrade to something. I found that Dodge was already playing with CR injection was hoping to get that finished up so to make the deadline they released the VP44 engine to fill the gap till CR injection could be finished. This means that Dodge chopped right in the ECM and made a mess out of the electrical to stack in the ECM quickly. This was done away with in the CR realm. So we have the redheaded step children of trucks.

Update EGT accuracy... Lost my ISSPro EV2 probe not long ago. Replaced it with a Quadzilla probe which it worked out just fine on the ISSPro gauge but there is less offset now very close to being right on the money between the two gauges. Might be worth just say that my offset was a probe that was failing and the offset was created as the probe wore out and then failed. ISSPro EV2 Boost vs. Quadzilla MAP sensor still skewed. I've tried my old factory 2002 MAP sensor and the 2001 MAP sensor as well. No change still skewed above 30 PSI.

He's built my headlight for my truck.

You don't need a turbo till after about +100 HP injectors. Even my +150 HP injectors I could still run my stock HX35W turbo. Quadzilla is the magic in extending the turbo abilities. Turbo is way too big.

California only problem. Time to move...

Without a cluster it will not read codes. The cluster is what gives bus bias for voltage to the CCD network. I'm not sur the OBDII port will work.

Fly on the wall.

I'll know about before most of you you all will. I'm suppose to get one for beta testing project when ready. I've already put in for the beta testing list.

@comanche79p - changed from 3.55 to 3.54 final ratio. You found out the secret. This is the narrow sized stock lighter by about 20 pounds typically. @gimmie11s - changed from 4.10 to 3.95 final ratio. Could go bigger in tire. 315/75 R16 would get you to the 3.75 final ratio.

What tires size? What is the gear ratio?

What size tires are you running? I'll math out your final ratio to the ground. Optimally it should be 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground for MPG purpose. In your case a slightly larger tire than stock is optimal with 4.10 gears.

As for the AC noise test...