Mopar1973Man

Ummm... I'm blonde by choice. My actual hair color is brown but I due to head in and be streaked (bleached) so I have a bit of blonde added. Bring on the jokes... Yankneck he's a blonde too.

You might want to use compressed air to push the pistons out next time.

White lithium grease is what we use quite a bit of at the shop (Lindy's). Matter of fact I grab the can of PB blaster and Lindy stopped me and told me to use the white lithium grease. Shake the can well and spray everything very well. You'll be surprised it will stick to everything very well and stay lubricated for months into the future. Stopped a customer's door from squeaking.

Possible... I'm not saying it is or isn't just be open minded. Either way I would be looking at the fuel system first and do some bench testing. Like is there any error codes currently. Fuel pressure (idle to WOT at highway speed) What your injectors like currently? Mileage? Pop test? 7 x 0.010 is roughly a 100 HP injector using this information. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6494-injector-sizes-and-turbo-discussion/

Just looking at your post again and doing the backward calculation to your stated pressures. Using 3,042 Pound Rating at 80 PSI maximum pressure. 55 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.68 * 3,042 = 2,068 * 2 = 4,137 pounds on your front axle 60 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.75 * 3,042 = 2,281 * 2 = 4,563 Pounds on your rear axle (empty) 75 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.93 * 3,042 = 2,851 * 2 = 5,703 Pounds on the rear axle (loaded) For a total of 8,700 (empty) or 9,840 pounds (loaded). Getting a wee bit heavy aren't we Bill... Of course this is backwards calculating the tire pressure back to weights.

So I tried it and liked it. I dropped from the calculated 58 PSI in the front to 53 PSI which is -5 from calc'ed. Then dropped the rear the same -5 from calc'ed I think its at 39 PSI and it tracks very well now. I like it! Thanks Bill! Front axle weight 4,410 Rear Axle weight 3,340 Total 7,750

Made a trip south to get some stuff today. Misfire is only on a fully heated engine (190-195*F of coolant). More pronounced after a long uphill climb with high EGT's 800-1000*F. All you need to do to cancel the miss is either put your foot heavy on the brake heavy or turn on the A/C and its gone. If left to idle for extended period say 10 minutes or longer it will go away. If you shut down the engine for all of 1-2 minutes and start again its gone too.

Something is wore out for it not being able to pull enough to release. You might have to pull the latch out and inspect closer.

That can be cleaned up. It the outer weather boot that was damaged and needs replacing.

According to Cummins the OE cross over tubes have been superseded twice now. What has changed I don't know.

Might read my thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9721-odd-injector-misfire/

Mine is tight still too. I check the steering box adjustment off and on and adjust as needed during the inspections. But I don't have the flex that people seem to have the require the steering brace. The 1996 is so darn touchy just breathe on the steering wheel it darts the direction you steered. 2002 is a bit more relaxed and not as touchy.

I've got one small crack started in my 2002. But my 1996 Dodge is crack free yet. Still as for the Blue Chip box it not like its a common place performance box like Edge Products or Quadzilla.

Just flip the 240k on the clock for the 2002 Dodge Cummins. Heck even the 96 Dodge Ram is heading for 159k miles.

Heck the chain is worth at least $15 bucks...

190k miles as it stands right now. I was hoping to clear 200k miles before it was replaced. I might just do it anyways. Cram the last 10k on her and then... But first try the cross over tubes first. I'm not going to complain much being that pump is 11 years old and 190k miles. Served me well. The OEM VP44 was replaced at 50k miles in 2004 under dealer warranty with a P0216 error code and heavy white smoke issues in the mornings.

Nick and Cowboy... I just though of something as well that you need to add to the software. If you have updated your valve springs you should be able to adjust the exhaust brake drive pressure. So typically 24V engines are 60 pound springs but if you update to say 90 pound why not allow to use the ability of the new springs. That would make you VGT turbo better exhaust brakes over any thing sold now.

My original DiPricols served me well for 10 years till the Pyrometer started getting wonky. Now I'm on my set of ISSPro EV2's and I like them a lot but there is a few extra thing you have to consider. Fuel pressure sensor has to be remote mounted not for vibration but for water hammer protection. As for ISSPro EV2's I would highly suggest looking into the programming software so you can set the warning light. That's still on my list of thing to get yet.

Who Me? Driving Tired Trucks?

Those are from my tinypics account. http://tinypic.com/ So... Here it is uploaded here.

Well I might of damaged on cross over tube with a injector that came loose some and might of distorted the tip of the cross over tube enough not to seal any more. It's a gambling guess because there is no way to see if the tube is leaking or not. But the difference between TFaoro and myself is my does NOT miss on a cold engine only after hard running. Then after it idles for a extended period it goes away and fire normally. The reason I had Eric pop test again was that was exactly how my RV275 injectors failed. They got down to about 240-260 bar and pissy. Which created the misfire issue. Well Eric verified the injectors and they are all still within 100 PSI of what was originally set. So the injectors are not the cause. But he suggested looking at the cross over tubes next. But ultimately it "might" be VP44 time. I'm not going to go there yet because there is no error codes, no issues other than the mild misfire at idle. For me to to just place my foot on the brake pedal heavy or just turn on the A/C and the miss goes away.

Actually Eric is lower than that and I'm getting all 6 for a "Good Boy Rate".

Here is one video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGaHaIXZioA Here is my video. Just remember to probe the BATT terminal on the alternator. Just like the truck I just got done working on. It ate the VP44 and the ECM to some degree... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9720-wait-to-start-light-stuck-on

Ummm... How about the "Kick Back" problem? Also how about cutting 48" rounds?

Make sure to put the rubber caps back on the bleeder screws and keep the water and mud out of the bleed screws. I normally put a thin coat of anti-seize on the threads and then cap the bleeder screws. No issues with rust or stripping out.