Royal Squire

Be nice to keep both of them. At least you still have a photo of the old one.

Might want to get a test gauge to make sure you have fuel pressure.

If I were you, knowing what I know now, having learned a ton from the good folks here, this is what I would do. First of all, unless the tires are going to leave you stranded, I would put that on the back burner. Yeah they would look good but if the truck won’t go.....my first purchase would be a fuel pressure gauge to make sure I’m not starving VP-44 injection pump. Next I would check for AC voltage and do W-T mod, both are in articles on this site. I would also check and clean all grounds and batteries and battery terminals. These mods are very inexpensive and simple to do. If you need a fuel pump I would likely go with a mechanical since the electric pumps seem to generate excess AC voltage if I understand correctly. Just a few of the many things I’ve learned from this site. Others may have different opinions. Listen and learn from someone else’s experience. It’s much cheaper!

Unless I misunderstand your dilemma, you can place #1 plug wire in any position on the distributor cap as long as the other wires are in the correct firing order and you take into account the direction of distributor rotation

I believe if you know someone with a smarty they can program your tire size. Not sure though

Might be starter solenoid fuse in power dist. center on left fender well

I was thinking the same thing

This is my latest towing experience!

No argument that they are good tools, it’s the price that is sometimes hard to swallow.

You might try cleaning all connections on PCM and instrument cluster. I think a poor connection on PCM is what caused my “no buss”.

Cracked manifolds are somewhat common so at some point you, or someone you know, may have a cracked manifold. That justifies it right there!

Valve body is more like the brain of transmission. Without the transmission oil pump the valve body is dead.

You might want to get in on the injector raffle!

YeeHaa!! It’s running again. ACS said nothing wrong with PCM they just had trouble getting it to connect. They told me not to use dielectric grease. $150 to test. When I hooked everything back up I had 16 codes. They all cleared except for P0237. I disconnected my edge and cleaned all connections and all is good. Thanks for the help. Sending a donation today.

There is someone here that made their own IIRC. Don’t recall who it was. Might do a search

I’m sure you’ve already tried fiddling with shift lever

Might consider tappet cover gasket since your replacing gaskets

Anything over 5 volts is too high?

Looks like the grill fits closer to the fender on the left side also.

Great. Thank you

My son joined the ranks of 2nd gen 24valve/auto owners about 2 weeks ago. He had owned a 95 12valve/5spd White dually about 10 years ago, so when he ran across this 24 valve white dually he just had to look. Ended up trading his crew cab dually 454/5spd Black Chevy for it. He took new truck to Arizona for his cousins graduation and his transmission went out. So he had to get tranny rebuilt in Arizona so he could get back home to Wyoming. I suggested he join this forum and he asked how. I couldn’t tell him. He doesn’t have a computer only a phone. Can someone here help me look smarter than I really am! Thank you in advance

I worked at a full service Texaco station. Don’t remember how much gas was or how much I made. My first vehicle that was street legal was a 64 el Camino. 283, 4 speed and posi. Engine was worn out but other than that it was pretty sweet. Sold that to my brother too.

Guess I should stop complaining.

IIRC the 98 & 99 have a different taper on the tie rod ends so won’t work on 00-02.

Mine was a 1941 Chevy pickup. Paid $25. Owner didn’t know if it would run, it did. I was 13 years old. Drove it around the farm for a couple years then sold to my brother. At the same time I bought a 51 pickup for $50. Owner said it would run and it did but coolant ran out the side of the block. My son has it now.