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Boling point of diesel is 309.749°F or 154.305°C. This boiling point will change with temperature and altitude (air pressure).

60/40 tin-lead alloy 370°F 63/37 tin-lead alloy 361°F

See if this helps https://m anuals.co/workshop/ford/explorer/ford-explorer-1996-misc-document-system-wiring-diagram/5525494/1

I thought it was because the Earth sucked.

@rogerash0 did you order one and they said they no longer sell them and not charge you or give your money back? I went to their ebay site and they have them for sale.

Looks like Forest River treated you right.

Mine does the same thing. I adjusted my thinking. It was easier than fooling with the sender unit.

If your talking about the overflow valve attaching the fuel return line to the VP44 the torque is 24 ft. lbs page 14-85 FSM.

@leety this is the aluminum plate that @JAG1 added to the side of his camper.

What is the gauge going to be used on? If it's on a gas fuel injection system a gauge with 30 PSI max will top out as soon as you start the fuel pump.

It looks like people will start getting there on October 4, and staying till the 12. We're thinking about going up to @JAG1house and camp in his driveway for a few days before going by way of back roads to Mono Village. This is our group from last May with JAG1's camper in the background

I've reused torque to yield bolts on many head gasket replacements and rebuilds on turbo and non turbo gas engines with no problems. Just clean and lube the bolts the way @04Mach1described and you'll be fine.

So you have tried two vp44s and to lift pumps with the same results. I wouldn't fool with them any more but look at hose, fittings and filter housing. Can you run a short fuel line from the fuel pump into a 1-2 gallon fuel can of diesel that's sitting up in the engine bay and try to start. This way you by pass every thing but the lift pump, filter and vp44 and have the fuel gravity feed to the pump.

Years ago the tax man would come by to value your property, land, house, out buildings and vehicles. The property owners would hide there vehicles and even with a big oil stain in the driveway tell the tax man they didn't have a car. So the tax man got smart and got the department of motor vehicles to collect the tax by incorporating it into the registration fees. Now, don't get me started. My blood pressure is still up there.

Nice. The middle of nowhere, doing nothing, between Nirvana and .La La Land. That camper looks some what like @JAG1's.

I too had 265/75R-16 tires and came across a deal for five 245/75R-16 That I switched to the smaller size. I too drive at 65MPH or less and tow 90% of the time. In the last 9 months the truck has towed over 12.000 with only seeing exhaust temp increases going up steep grades like route 16 out of Rapid City, SD up into the Black Hills. I just took it out of overdrive and backed off a hair.

On November 1st of last year the California legislature passed and the Honorable Governor Moonbeam signed a fuel tax increase into law. California now has one of the highest gas and diesel tax in the nation. A 12-cent a gallon increase in the gasoline excise tax. A 20-cent a gallon increase in the diesel excise tax. A 5.75% increase in the diesel sales tax. A new vehicle fee which will increase registration fees by $25-$175 annually depending on the value of the vehicle. A $100 fee added to zero emission vehicle registration cost. In the bill not one cent can go to build new single driver road use roads! It's funds are allocated to various green projects such as new car pool lanes, carbon reduction programs and the like but with the bulk of the monies going to the underfunded government employees retirement fund. California collects enough taxes to pay for the repairs and improvements but waste is the name of the game. On the national average for every dollar a state spends on road repair the state of California will spend $4 to do the same repair This is such an unpopular tax increase that enough signatures have been collected to put a gas tax repeal initiative on the November 2018 ballot.

Bosch is what I use in the Volvo work I do. Not only is it OEM in a lot of the Volvo cars but also in BMW and MBZ. That Bosch fuel pump 044 is all most identical to the Bosch fuel pump 068 that was used for over 12 years as the main fuel pump in the 240, 740, 760 and 940 models. They hold up well with the average replacement at over 180.000 miles. Yes the fuel pressure out put can be over 100 PSI but the fuel pressure regulator positioned after the injectors will control it. On a gas fuel injection system the needed fuel pressure will vary from manufacture and model. For the most part I see the fuel pressure at the low end about 35 PSI and the high at 55 PSI depending on the model and injection system. That type of pump does draw a lot of AMPS so use a 30 amp rated relay with a 25 amp fuse and 14 gauge wire.

They sell those in junkyards. One yard I use to go to was near 30th and Commercial St near downtown San Diego. The whole lot was paved in asphalt and concrete. The environmental people told them they had to put in rain water catch basins along with some other thing so that there would be no hazardous waste run off. They closed that yard down and moved to Chula Vista where the lot is dirt with no run off protection. Most of the yards I go into are dirt and the 'pick your part' places have drain pans you can use to catch coolant or oil but not everyone uses them so there is a mess on the ground. Go figure.

That's page 8W-90-29 of the 2001 factory manual that I edited the pertinent diagram from. I've had mine apart a few times for different projects and I go to auto/truck salvage yards and do a little dismantling. Last Tuesday I was in 2 yards in Chula Vista and on Thursday I was scouring one in Oceanside.

OK. So it's back to 'is the A/C inop at the same time?' and you'll only know that the next time it doesn't work.

Did you mean G 201? When the blower motor doesn't go on, is that ALL fan speeds don't work or does high speed work and only high speed work?.

Glad you made your presence known. It's nice to have another seasoned citizen amongst us who is handy with a wrench.

The fan motor get its' power from the fuse and relay while the A/C system/compressor gets its' power from a different fuse and relay. If both the fan motor and A/C compressor are not working then I'd check their common grounding point at G 201, black/orange wire. The fan resistor only controls the lower fan speed ground paths. The high fan speed ground path bypasses the resistor pack goes through the fan switch and to G 201. If the fan works in highspeed only and not in the lower speeds it's the resistor pack. If the fan does not work but the A/C does, check for voltage at the fan motor and the ohm test the ground from it.