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My wife says my breathes to much.

I've used Murry A/C compressors from O'Reillys in a pinch. The last one I installed was for an 01 Chevy Taho with rear A/C, June 1, 2017. I paid $189 for it with a limited lifetime warranty. Here is a new Murry compressor from O'Reillys for $234. Now, that price is in Escondido, CA and I can't see why there is a $96 price difference between states. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/air-conditioning-16770/compressors---clutch-16796/a-c-compressor-12403/796587886e88?fitAttr_10076=With Clutch The other brands I've used have been Valeo , Sanden and York. These were for different Volvo models.

Once the refrigerant is in a gaseous state the only way it can go back to a liquid is be compressed and sent through the condenser. A properly filled A/C system will not cause slugging. Over filled or filling the system with an inverted can will cause slugging. Insulating the piping after the orifice tube and before the evaporator is no problem. After the evaporator some auto manufacturer choose to insulate the accumulator. GM has done it with this products like this. https://www.ebay.com/p/A-C-Accumulator-Insulator-ACDelco-GM-Original-Equipment-15-10614/79416292?iid=282964073381&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52475%26meid%3D84e53c92765446a885aca61308b093e9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D161767073957%26itm%3D282964073381&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Ford did it with a spray on insulation but it caused the accumulator made of steel to rust out, there was no way for the condensation to evaporate. Now they are made of aluminum. Mercedes covered the A/C lines in the 80's and 90's.

See if this helps. .

Heat always moves to cold, that's physics. So any part of the low pressure side of the A/C system from the expansion valve to the evaporator and accumulator is colder than their surroundings and will absorb the heat. This is extra heat that has to be removed from the system through the condenser. These 16 year old condensers aren't as efficient as when new so the system could use that added help of insulating the low pressure pipes, hoses and accumulator.

I'd take the cover off, spray it down with brake clean and blow it out, then refill. Cheap insurance, no need to have any thing going through the bearings let alone the ring and pinon.

Here are the wire diagrams for the transmission

Well, I checked the vacuum system with a vacuum gauge and found that the vacuum was coming up very slowly and the vents would start to change at 6 in Hg and be fully opened at 8 in Hg. This took at least 30 seconds from start up and maximum vacuum was 10 in Hg. I disconnected the vacuum hose that comes from the vacuum pump at the fitting on the fire wall, installed the vacuum gauge and started the engine. The vacuum again rose slowly but as I moved the hose around a bit the vacuum would jumped up to 28 in Hg. So that tells me that the vacuum pump is working and there is a problem with the plumbing. Inspected the plastic hose and fitting to the pump and found the rubber the fitting is made from deteriorated. The fitting is now replaced with a 3" peace of vacuum hose. The vacuum now climbs to 28 in Hg in less than 5 seconds on start up. If you find one fitting that looks like this you will want to replace all the others because after 16 + years you know they'll be in bad shape too.

Had that happen on a work van with rear drum brakes. It turned out to be a sticking brake wheel cylinder on the right rear.

Here's how to make a relay mod if one doesn't come with the new pump.

@CTcummins24V I run my edge on level 2 and @dripley is right about the boost. If it's towing or not the best boost I see is 30psi, that's what I set the boost controller at and I don't think my HX turbo would produce much more than that. I normally drive 65-70 and tow at 60-65 mph, the boost is 0-5 psi when cruising.

Right, It's a 24 micron stainless steel mesh fuel strainer used pre-pump. It is not a fuel filter. I think I'll get one for my Fuel Boss system.

Do you have an electrical back up fuel pump with that Fuel Boss. If so you could add a fuel line to the system, energize the pump and have it fill 5 gallon fuel cans or stick a hose in to the tank filler neck and siphon it out.

That's the 4th of July. You think some Auto Workers Union wonk is going to be there for less than triple time?

You may need to make your own set up. It would be easy to do with a fuel line T-fitting with an adjustable hobbs pressure switch like the one that is supplied with the Fuel Boss lift pump. This set up is used to turn on and off the back up electric fuel pump and can be adjusted to any pressure you want.. In stall an LED light like the one below in place of the fuel pump. By the way, 10PSI is to low. You want fuel to run through the pump and back to the tank to keep the pump cool. The return line valve doesn't open until 14PSI so you will want to set it for 13PSI.. LED light http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/311818045237 hobbs pressure switch https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hobbs+pressure+switch

Just what I need

My son planted 5 different varieties of sunflowers

I'd like to help but like KOTOOM I live pretty far away, over 10 hours. If the starter relay socket has power to terminal #30 and the wire from the starter relay socket terminal #87 to the starter motor is good Then this will work in a pinch to get engine started. You will then be able to get it to a repair shop. 1. Make a jumper wire with 3"-5" long 14-12 gauge wire with cover striped from ends about 1/4"-1/2" 2. For safety place the transmission in neutral, apply park brake and block the wheels !! 3. Remove PDC cover and remove starter motor relay. Relay location on inside of PDC cover and in picture below. 4. Turn ignition switch to the on position. 5. Using the jumper wire touch terminals #30 and #87 at the same time. This will be like the start position on the ignition switch and the engine should start. Once the engine starts remove the wire.

That sucks, big time. Why couldn't you break down near New Meadows? I know a guy that would fix you right up. . How fast do you need it fixed? I know another guy that's a mobile mechanic but he's old and slow.

I just go to Google and type in "The chicken man" and up they come. I wish I did Photoshop I'd really have a good time.

What did you expect? United States Forest Service and Cal Fire are government bureaucracies run with government workers spending OPM, other peoples money. I've seen to much waste by government agencies, from school districts to the Feds. On a lighter note: some flowers that my son planted along some of the fence line.

I was called out onetime to get a car started that was in a small field next to Lone Jack rd. Encinitas, CA. When I opened the hood two rabbits jumped out to either side and scared the heck out of me. I found electrical wire and vacuum hose damage. Most of the cars I see having rodent damage are parked out in the country near avocado, lemon and orange groves. They seam to like sparkplug wires and favor any injector or ABS/SRS sensor wiring. I've had a few cats over the years. The vet bills were killing me. May be it would be cheaper to get a chicken

What the heck! Talk about CYA. Weren't the tires and bearings supplied by them when they put the trailer together and covered by warranty..

Your fuel flow back to the tank at 25 PSI should be and the truck not running should be strong. How is the flow at the injection pump? check this out to test your fuel flow. The throttle position sensor, also known as an APPS (accelerator peddle position sensor), can be tested with an OBD II scan tool that can read live data. With live data you can watch the % of throttle opening which should be smooth and not jump when depressing the accelerator peddle. Do you have any codes? The Timbo's APPS for sale in the store here.

Pump manufactures to look for: Electric pumps check out Air Dog and FASS. Mechanical pump is the GDP Fuel Boss. Do not get one of these. I went through three of them before putting a Fuel Boss on.